Clear Creek Canyon Rock Climbing

Not that anyone really cares, but the rock in this Canyon is not granite at all but metamorphic schist and gneiss (similar to the rock on Hallett Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park). Makes for good face climbing...though I never thought of metamorphic rock as being so pocketed ;) Sep 5, 2001

Y'all probably have seen this but in case you missed it, The Denver Post reports on p 3C, Clear Creek Canyon will be closed for 3 weeks 9/13/4 for work on 3 bridges & rock-fall mitigation for 11 miles from CO Hwy 93 to CO Hwy 119. Climbing access will be affected. Sep 5, 2004

On the east side of Tunnel 2, right off the highway there are a few routes that go to a ledge where there are several other routes. One of these routes is a dihedral (I think. It is right in a corner, with a 'roof') its a short pitch, with only 4 bolts, and looks right over the highway. Does anybody know what this is called, or what it is rated? Apr 4, 2005

Road is now open up until about a mile and a half from the rock slide so that kayakers, climbers and hikers can enjoy the canyon. Jun 27, 2005

As of 3 days ago, cars were allowed up the canyon, but not bikes (too dangerous the CDOT workers claimed)!!!! Jul 1, 2005

Bicycles are not allowed in the canyon, even when it is 'open'. Jul 5, 2005

Look, people, the Wall of Justice IS NOT the toilet area for Highwire Crag! I visited it yesterday and was disgusted by the abundance of human feces, toilet paper, etc. in the vicinity. If you have to go, go somewhere else. If you see someone headed over there to crap there, remind them that the Wall of Justice and the surrounding area are not the shitter. Aug 29, 2006

Anybody have any idea when the new guide is supposed to be out?
-ag Sep 22, 2006

Darren Mabe's new guide is basically finished and is in the editing stages. It should be out by the end of 2006, maybe November.

casey Sep 22, 2006

I've been climbing in Clear Creek Canyon for many years now and enjoy many aspects of it. Usually people are very friendly, the climbing is good and the convenience is great. Lately I've been hanging out at the Wall of Justice working on "The Great Escape" which is a super fun route. About 10 days ago I was there and put some draws on the route. After finishing our session, I decided to take the bottom three draws but leave the top three for future projecting. Didn't think that this would be an issue. Well, I was wrong and now very disappointed in our fellow climbers. Today, when I went back to climb the route my draws were gone. What is wrong with people? What ever happened to, "if it's not yours, don't touch it"? Last year, we had draws on the entire route of the "Great Escape" and the bottom three were stolen and then a week later all draws were stolen off "Anarchitect". This is absurd and unacceptable. Why would someone do this? If your reading this, "THIEF", quit stealing other peoples stuff, and I hope your not hurt too badly when karma bites you in the ass. Sep 26, 2006

Jess, sorry to hear about the stolen draws. I found several other similar incidents reported on the site within the past 5 years:

?Oct 4, 2001? - Eldorado Canyon / Monument Direct
Oct 20, 2002 - Boulder Canyon / Castle Rock / Aid Roof
Apr 19, 2004 - Clear Creek Canyon / Wall of Justice / Slammer
?May 18, 2004? - Clear Creek Canyon / Anarchy Wall / Matriarch
Oct 19, 2004 - Boulder Canyon / Eagle Rock / Eagle Warrior
Apr 4, 2006 - Castlewood Canyon / Rim Job
Jun 1, 2006 - Eldorado Canyon / Supremacy Rock / The Web
Jun 29, 2006 - Keystone / House Rock / Crystal Ball

Perhaps, it's just better to remove your draws in high-traffic and/or high-visibility areas. Sep 26, 2006

Thanks for your support, Mike. My question is, why doesn't this happen in Rifle, also a very high traffic area? Does the thieving have something to do with wanting to put their own draws on the route while climbing it? Or thinking that it's lame to have draws on a Clear Creek 5.12? Or is it just plain stealing? I guess it's said and done, and we'll probably never know who the thief is unless they have balls big enough to speak up. Another lesson learned the hard way. Sep 26, 2006

Chris,
You would take the draws too? Are you calling yourself a thief then? I'm pretty sure you just announced to everyone that you are.
Attention Colorado Climbers: Never climb with or around this guy! Sep 28, 2006

Chris S.,
First, I'm not a fella, I'm a lady, and second, Nixon was a crook! It's pretty disturbing to have personal belongings stolen and this is not the first time. I try to have trust in my fellow climbers and people in general. I suppose that coming from the East your perspective on trusting others is very different. I'm surprised that you're surprised at how angry I was. (I've cooled down a bit now.) If you go to Anarchy Wall in CCC and look at a comment from 2004 regarding stolen draws, you'll realize that I actually kept my cool pretty good. Like I said, I learned the hard way. I definitely will not leave draws around anymore knowing that many people out there think it's OK to take anything left on the rock but chalk!
Jessica Sep 28, 2006

Jess, sorry to hear that your project draws were stolen. Fixed draws shouldn't be considered booty. If you want, you can have my draws I have hanging on The Gauntlet on the Armory, or there are also a few of mine on Hot Rocks on Crystal Tower. I have not had a chance to go up there and take them down, but you can have them if you want, and if they are still up there. However, leave the top biners on the chains of the Gauntlet. I don't know what condition the draws are in, as they have been up there since March, I think.
darren Sep 29, 2006

Hi Darren,
Thanks a lot for your offer and generosity. I have a decent stash of draws, so I'll be set for a little while. Thanks again though! My project is almost completed at The Wall Of Justice.
Later,
Jess Sep 29, 2006

Darren,
I fear that your generosity is now going to cause many other climbers to rush for that gear and claim if for themselves. I would be surprised if that has not happened already. What a bummer as these should be considered yours or for someone deserving (like Jess). Oct 2, 2006

I just recently had my draws stolen off Ten Digit Dialing, like in the past 4 or 5 days. Does anyone know anything that could help me get them back? I really need them. I won't be pissed off. I just want them back. Thanks. Oct 2, 2006

PHOTOS WANTED for NEW GUIDEBOOK!

As Sharp End Publishing is closing in on finishing my new Clear Creek Canyon guidebook, they could still use a few more climbing action photos to supplement the ones I shot.

If you have any rad photos you would like to see in the new guide, get in touch with me. The guide will be full color. Decent resolution makes files too big for email, so I would rather want them burned onto CD.

I would also need to know the names of the routes, climbers, as well as the photographers.

Can reach me at darrenmabe@yahoo.com for more details.

thank you!
Darren Mabe Dec 8, 2006

Darren,

Any news on the guidebook availability yet? I don't see anything on the publisher's site yet.

Cheers,

John Apr 11, 2007

John.
Thanks for your interest! I am anticipating for my book to be on the shelves in May. Keep fingers crossed! The folks at Sharpend are doing a kick ass job with the layout, graphics, etc.

Trust me, it will be well worth the wait!

-Darren Mabe Apr 12, 2007

Darren,

How's that guide coming? The samples I saw in Bent Gate look amazing... Jul 1, 2007

We encountered a rattlesnake on the approach to Wall of the 90s yesterday. I had never heard of any rattlesnakes in CCC before. Be careful! Jul 2, 2007

Is Cat Slab closed or not? Access Fund website doesn't say that it is, but RC.com and this site indicate that it is (or might be). Anybody know for sure? I'm trying to plan a trip (coming up from Texas). And need an are with moderates, preferably stuff 5.7 and below, because the guy I am going with is not very experienced. Jul 9, 2007

Caleb - Yes, access/trespassing is prohibited there currently by private property owner. Highwire & some others will offer you some moderates; Creekside is a fun crag, plus you won't get charged for a technical rescue there should something happen & you get a fun tyrol. Jul 20, 2007

Does anyone know what the route on the south side of the highway just past mile marker 270 and Tunnel 1 is called, and what grade it is? It seems to be about 30 feet long and very overhung, and the approach looks to be by crossing a permanent bridge. Oct 8, 2007

I'm looking for information on Belleview Mountain on the West side of Idaho Springs. On the right side of Fall River Road exit off 70W there are some large walls that seem untouched. I'm wondering if anyone has claimed first ascents there, if it's public land, or if anyone has any idea what I'm talking about. Nov 25, 2007

"Clear Creek Canyon Rock Climbs" is released.

Books are on their way to the stores, for now there is a shop copy at Bent Gate and also at Neptune's.

-darren Feb 6, 2008

This is what the cover of Darren's new guide looks like:

Feb 10, 2008

You can check out sample pages of the book atsharpendbooks.com. The books are here and in local shops! Feb 10, 2008

Can anyone tell me what wall is directly across the river from High Wire Crag?
It's slabby with hanging belays at the bottom.
Thanks! Jun 2, 2008

I noticed a "for sale" sign on the property upon which Catslab lies... anyone have details? Too expensive for some Access Fund intervention? Jun 22, 2008

River Wall is the wall directly across from Highwire. Jul 3, 2008

Hey if anyone found a camera between High Wire and Wall of Justice, and are honest, could you please let me know. I misplaced it somehow and it has pictures of my little boy on it. Thanks for the help. Jul 11, 2008

Greetings, as of 7/20, there are still draws on the Gauntlet..I don't know if they are Darren's; however, we did not see a rush out to clean them off.... Anyway, I hope no one minds if others use draws left on a "project"..in actuality it makes it more attractive to try something that may be more difficult for someone if they don't have to worry about leaving their own gear on a pitch. I will further add that CCC has been a real Godsend for those of us from the Denver area who don't want to climb further North where lately there has been a lot of attitude. I say this not to bash Boulderites, but the last time my friends and I climbed in Eldo we were subjected to what amounted to some serious chest thumping...i.e. while waiting in line to do the first pitch of Rewritten, some boneheads cut in front of us and got on the first pitch of Great Zot...way we were going to take...now in their big rush to get on, they crossed the parties line whom we were waiting on.... We fully offered to kick their asses, but they seemed to ignore us? I ramble and apologize, but I really don't see any other way to get through to some people....Young Doug. Aug 1, 2008

Yeah..Not yet!, It looks like a grunt! Perhaps I should have stated we observed them in passing. Awesome photos in your guidebook, I really like that format. We have yet to encounter any difficulty in finding any route in the Canyon. Peace Young Doug.... Aug 1, 2008

I've heard from a couple of my climbing buddies that a new crag has been bolted somewhere down before tunnel 1, evidently Jeffco put a bridge in across the creek as well... I'm looking for some info on this, I haven't purchased Darren's book yet (probably getting it tonight or tomorrow), but if anybody has any info on this new crag I'd appreciate it!!

Thank

Tim Aug 7, 2008

Here is the area you are looking for:

mountainproject.com/v/color…

It's fantastic. Aug 7, 2008

Yep. It's "The Canal Zone", and has some really nice stone, and some very good lines. Young Doug. Aug 8, 2008

I lost my shows on High Wire this Monday. They are black and white Evolvs size ten and a half. If anyone knows anything, let me know.

taktent@yahoo.com Sep 19, 2008

What I'm wondering is if an one would be able to guide me on how to get to ECHALE. I know that it is on MM268 but have yet to find it.

Thanks May 8, 2009

I was trying to find information on a route in CCC that an old friend of mine (John Rosholt) did the FA of in the late 70's or early 80's. All I remember of it was that he said that it was directly above the East side of either tunnel 1 or tunnel 2 and that it was pretty stiff and pretty steep. I think if I saw a picture of it I would recognize it, he showed me pictures at the time.

Also, is it possible to post a map that shows location of crags relative to tunnels and distance up the canyon? Jun 17, 2009

There is a map in the guidebook that has what you are looking for.... Jun 17, 2009

I FOUND A GUIDEBOOK AT HIGH WIRE ON FRIDAY (7.3.09). if it is yours shoot me an email (jcaberglund@gmail.com) and tell me the distinguishing qualities it has, so I can get it to the right person.

Also: in the forementioned guidebook, there is a reference to the 'Maverick Boulders' does anyone know their location/ grades/ # of problems?
Jul 5, 2009

I replaced the last bolt on Twitch about one day ago and found out upon inspection on said bolt that I would really like to replace all of the lines bolts... and with out doubt replace the bolt that bares the brunt of all the big falls from the crux of the line the most.

The bolt that I 1st checked out was so rusted and worn I had to beat it lose with a wrench and my wall hammer!!!! Rust fell out of the hole, people!!! Scary!!!!!

If the community would not mind, especially Pete... if you're out there, I would like to re-bolt the whole line. All bolts would be located in the same place as the old ones and holes patched. I would replace the existing bolts with 3/8 inch 3 inch stainless steel bolts and hangers. They will be bomber folks.

I believe such an old C.C.C. classic such as "Twitch" needs this kind of attention!! Because as of now.... the bolts on this line have become, large in part, scary!!! I also think the anchors need an update as well!!!

If there are any real objections, and I mean real objections!!!... to my proposal to re-bolt please speak up now!!! I want to re-bolt A.S.A.P., so please speak your peace soon, please.

I would really like Pete as well as the community to be fully behind my re-bolting of this classic line. Thanks to all that respond.

-Luke Childers Jan 7, 2010

WARNING: The cops are out in force in CCC. I got a $170/4 point speeding ticket doing 55 mph (the speed limit is 40 mph which seems awfully slow). The cop told us that there are 4 state patrollers there every day, due to complaints about speeders. May 19, 2010

Anybody know the closest camping area to Clear Creek? May 27, 2010

Camping: Clear Creek RV Park

. . . then you could walk up to The Canal Zone. May 27, 2010

Does anyone know if Catslab is open to climbing yet? Legally, that is? May 28, 2010

Yes...the Cat Slab in open and ready for action. Have fun! Great lines at this wall. Dec 22, 2010

Do any of the cliffs receive sun this time of year? If so times, please.

Thank you in advance. Jan 6, 2011

A few do, Kevin.

• Highlander gets sun all day - but can be windy.
• Dog House gets sun from say 10 am til 3 pm?
• Primo Wall/ Crystal Tower get sun from 10:30-2ish.
• The "Binge side" of Creekside gets sun around the same as primo (but can be harder to get to if there is not an ice bridge).
• Convenience Cliff gets sun most of the day... I think.
• Also Sports Wall gets sun most of the day, say 11 am til dusk.
• If you're looking for a hard project, Stuffed Wolf (13b) at the Higher Profile Wall gets sun in the late afternoon. This is a great time to go over there as a ice bridge normally forms for easy access.

Hope that helped. Jan 6, 2011

Thanks for the info. Jan 7, 2011

My husband and I are planning a 2 month climbing trip for the summer and are considering adding Clear Creek to the list of destinations. Can someone please provide me with the 411 on the area....
How is the crowd in the summer?
Is the park dog friendly? Are the hikes dangerous for the dogs?
Is there a park fee? May 30, 2011

Clear Creek Canyon is not a state park, and there is no fee to climb there. Jefferson County manages the space, I believe.

Crowds: Weekends SUCK, not going to lie. Weekdays you will be fine.
Dogs: Be respectful of the other climbers. Keep them on a leash.
Hike: There are a couple Tyrols that would probably suck for a dog, but the rest are just fine. May 30, 2011

Lost a jacket at Highland (gray, light wind-breaker, size M) Wednesday May 25th. Anyone happen to find it? I would greatly appreciate it if I could get it back. Climbing Karma will follow Jun 3, 2011

To whoever stole my draws off Free Enterprise at Capitalist Crag:

What is wrong with you? Seriously? Stealing someone's project draws? Really? I mean, stealing is bad enough, but stealing within our community of climbers who leave stuff up, in good faith, for anyone to use? Are you that poor? Or are you just that big a dick?

You deserve the absolute worst in life. I hope you get it. Jun 19, 2011

Is Catslab still considered "closed"??? Mar 29, 2012

A friend and I are heading to the canyon for the first time and would like to obtain some beta on the area.

- What is the best guidebook for sport climbing?

- Where should we camp (preferably free & in the canyon)?

- Favorite routes in the 5.9 - 5.11 range?

Thanks. Jul 22, 2012

LOST 7/25 black iPhone and black wallet. Please message me here or email kifollert@gmail.com. REWARD. Thanks. Jul 25, 2012

I found a pair of climbing shoes at Wall of Justice this Sunday. If you think they are yours, contact me with the make and size and I'll get them back to you ASAP. Oct 15, 2012

Found belay device Easter Sunday, 2013. Describe it and where you left it, and I will get it back to you... otherwise, BOOTY!!! Apr 1, 2013

Sorry to nitpick, but I can't help it: "more unique" - q.v. Description - is bad English. Oct 16, 2013

Uniquer. Oct 16, 2013

Has the CCC been affected at all by the recent floods? Oct 21, 2013

Marty, Click Colorado, scroll to comments. Oct 21, 2013

Does anyone know who manages the land in clear Creek Canyon. I am looking for information on guiding small groups. Thank you. Feb 12, 2014

^ B Smith, it is Jefferson County and Clear Creek County Open Space. JeffCo calls their part Clear Creek Canyon Park. Here is link to management plan, though no specifics on guiding.
jeffco.us/parks/recreation/… Feb 13, 2014

Hey B, if you are guiding in the JeffCo portion of the canyon you need to obtain a commercial use permit. I used to administer the program but no longer do. You should call the main office at 303-271-5925 and ask for Kathy DeWeese. Feb 14, 2014

Hello, everyone.

The Peaks to Plains Trail construction team would like to alert all climbers to rockfall mitigation happening over the next 2-3 months near the Oxbow Parcel in Clear Creek Canyon (please see attached map for more specific locations and impacts). All mitigation work will be taking place in areas already designated as construction zones, but crews would like to remind climbers that these areas remain off limits for safety concerns. Mitigation work may wrap up sooner than expected depending on weather and scheduling. Please direct any questions or concerns to p2ptrail@publicinfoteam.com.

Thank you,
Peaks to Plains Trail Project Public Info Team
Mar 24, 2014

Hey, does anyone know what the routes are just below the right side of High Wire? If you cross the bridge and took the trail heading towards Twitch/New River Wall, the routes I'm talking about would be above the trail on a steep(ish) wall with a tree growing near the wall. The two steepest routes had draws hanging and looked pretty awesome.

Thanks! May 12, 2014

Hey Allen, one is Twitch and the other is a project just right of that, is that what you're referring to? Send me a message and I'll give you some more info. May 12, 2014

The new Clear Creek Canyon guidebook is here! Purchase at these links denvermountainguiding.com/M… and fixedpin.com Aug 3, 2014

Hey guys, who do I contact about donating some gear for tyrols or fixed lines like at Wall of Justice? A friend of mine had to cut his stuck rope, so I got 3 chunks of rope to donate 13m, 15m, and 42m of 9.8 dynamic rope. Not sure if they will be helpful, but I'm trying to put them to good use and give them to someone or help someone replace the tyrols or fixed lines. Someone shoot me a message or email me at khalonkin@gmail.com. Trying to put those chunks of rope to good use. Jun 30, 2015

I'm about to climb in Clear Creek for a few days. I'd like to car camp in the area. Are there any better options than the RV park? Thanks! Jul 26, 2015

Any reason there's no info on the Live Action Wall? The guidebook has a handful of routes - just wondering if there has been any more development beyond those listed there. Feb 17, 2016

No one has posted "Live Action Wall" yet is all. Feb 17, 2016

I will be bringing 11 gals on a university trip this fall. What are the best campsites that are close and will accommodate to our group size? Aug 31, 2016

Hey!
Did someone lose a guidebook this past Sunday? I'm going to guess they left it on top of their car and drove off, b/c it was found on the road getting trampled on by cars. Anyways, text me, and you might get it back. Let me know where you might have been climbing and around what time. I can eliminate those who are just trying to get a free book. FYI, there were some damage done on the book due to cars. 714-three Six Nine-5662, Kenny Sep 14, 2016

I found a cell phone yesterday afternoon at the Low Wire crag. Message me with a description if it's yours! Jan 12, 2017

Sharp End Publishing has recently released a new Denver Climbing Guide that includes comprehensive coverage of Clear Creek Canyon, North Table Mountain, Coal Creek Canyon (the legal climbs), and Castlewood Canyon. It has many more routes than even the latest Clear Creek book.

If you own Darren Mabe's Clear Creek Canyon Climbs, you can upgrade to the new book for only $24 (including tax and shipping) by sending in a proof-of-purchsase. See below for more info:

sharpendbooks.homestead.com…
Jan 25, 2017

New Denver Book is wack. Lacks FA info, routes on walls, durability, and hard to read topos.... Do the writers even climb anymore? Or do they just find routes on MP & "make a book"?

I'd wait for the 2nd edition Clear Creek Bible. Jan 29, 2017

I think the new book is great. I like the no nonsense, concentrated format that gives you the info you need using icons instead of route descriptions and essays which makes it smaller and more packable. With that, this book has the same (actually more) amount of beta it would take 3 different books costing about $100 prior to its release.
I subscribe. Feb 7, 2017

Found a set of 6 Petzl Dejinn quickdraws marked with gear tape while I was leaving Highlander before it closed for the birds (around the beginning of Feb. end of Jan.). Don't worry, they are in a safe warm place now, awaiting their return. Feb 26, 2017

Hey all, lost a Galaxy S4 phone on 4/3/2014 somewhere at the main Canal Zone parking, the crag and area right after tunnel 3, or the parking and approach for the Crystal Tower. If found, shoot me a message. Apr 4, 2017

I'll be coming from PA and wanted to know if anyone has any info on 2017 raptor closures? I'll be there on June 5th. May 24, 2017

Hi everybody,
Looking for a good area for some to toproping, somewhere we can hike up and use established bolts. Are there any spots like this in Clear Creek?
Thanks so much! Oct 14, 2017

^Echo, Lookout Mountain Crag has a few. Other than that, not much for easily accessible topropes. I suppose you could set a few shorties from the Queen City Slab ledge at Highwire. I know of plenty not-so-straightforward ones, but I would not recommend them due to risk to climbers below. Oct 14, 2017

According to the local Channel 31 news, US 6 will be closed to CO 119 on weekdays into April for rock scaling. Feb 20, 2018

US 6 closure schedule:

codot.gov/projects/us-6-cle… Mar 13, 2018

Hi there! I'll be visiting a friend in Idaho Springs April 24-30. Trying to figure out if US 6 is still closed? Everything I see just says 'April' generally. Trying to figure out between that and raptor closures, what is still accessible. Thank you!!! Apr 14, 2019 · Temporary Report