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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: M. Rolofson, R. Wright, A. Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 14,979 total, 73/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fun arete route that switches sides back and forth a few times. Over the years I continue to come back to this one as the varied climbing, length, and quality are amoung the best of the grade in the canyon. Start out with some fun overhanging 11c moves on jugs. Then move to some good, vertical, face climbing followed by interesting slab moves. The crux is near the top and is pulling a little roof/bulge on pretty thin holds - a challenging sequence to find but a great one to figure out. This is another Clear Creek classic.

Protection

16 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. 60 meter rope reqiured to lower off and it is a stretch so tie a big knot in the end before lowering.

Photos

WadeM
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
Fun route.

Ripped a hold off down low. It climbs at the same grade. Oct 4, 2017
Thanks for the rebolting effort, Dylan.

Great route. I haven't done a ton of routes in Clear Creek, but this is definitely one of the best I've done there. Jun 4, 2017
I installed stainless steel glue-in bolts this morning after removing the old bolts and drilling yesterday. Should be good to go Sunday morning, May 14th. Hardware courtesy of the American Safe Climbing Association. May 13, 2017
Nolan Robertson
  5.11c
Nolan Robertson  
  5.11c
Fun mega pitch, a little misleading in a few parts, makes for a great warm-up, just sort of annoying to clean. Apr 7, 2017
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
Excellent route to break into 5.12. Pretty intuitive movement throughout, with some planning necessary for the slab and final roof. Tons of places to rest! And conveniently right before the cruxes, making for a great onsight attempt. This route is seriously fun. I would do it over and over. Jul 22, 2015
Andrew Riley
Yangon, Myanmar
Andrew Riley   Yangon, Myanmar
Hey, I left a Gri-gri at the bottom of this climb on 5/8/13, checked today and it wasn't there. If you picked it up/found it, let me know and I'll buy you a six pack. - Andrew Riley 217-779-7779. May 9, 2013
nate post
Silverthorne
  5.12a
nate post   Silverthorne
  5.12a
Wow! such a fun route. My new favorite in CCC. I had thought Curvaceous was good which I did for the first time an hour before getting on Wet Dream, and I think they are both Clear Creek classic's, but I give Wet Dream an extra gold star for just being so damn fun. Oct 15, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great route and definitely a classic. Slightly overhanging jug hauling on bullet hard stone. Everyone should do this!! Jul 17, 2012
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
@ tscupp
Did this route yesterday. You can stay just left of the arete, or far left of the arete (like 5-ft). Far left is more secure, but a fall would have you piss'n yourself, because the quickdraw is low and right and on the arete. So, you'll swing around the other side. Staying just left of the arete and pinching it is probably a harder slab move but a safer fall if you were to pitch (this is how I did it). A third alternative would be to use the holds both on the left and right side of the arete as you move upwards to the final jug, but this just looks HARD! Sep 20, 2010
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
I saw that chalk out left on the slab, but I didn't go that way either. With that said, while the crux moves up higher were definitely harder, the slab scared the pants off me. Jul 22, 2009
tscupp
Englewood, CO
tscupp   Englewood, CO
How far do you go left at the slab? My partner stayed on the arete as where I basically palmed the arete with my right hand while standing up on my left foot on the blob. I saw a lot of chalk on something left which wasn't anywhere near curvaceous so I figure it's for this climb yet it's pretty far off the bolt line, anyone go up that way?

Fantastic line - Curvaceous had been my favorite at CCC until I got on this. So much going on with such a great variety. Jul 8, 2008
desbien
seattle,wa
  5.12a
desbien   seattle,wa
  5.12a
Nice line. I kept wanting to fight going left at the slab, but just give in. The rest is endurance. Technique wise, I don't think the cux is up high, maybe a pump crux. Dec 4, 2007
Nate Weitzel  
 
Added lowering hooks to the anchor of this route, now it is quite nice to just clip and lower off. Jul 5, 2007
Lon Black  
 
Excellent line. It makes you think and is much more sustained than Curvaceous. I would say it's two letter grades harder than Curvaceous. Roof moves, arete climbing, a couple slabby sequences, definiteive crux followed by pretty sustained face above all make for a superb line. I just wish I could have done them all without falling. Maybe one day. Jul 24, 2005
Using shoulder length slings before the first roof, at the end of the slab, and below the crux bulge helps to alleviate rope drag. Jun 20, 2003
I thought this route was great because of the variety of moves one encounters, I wasn't expecting any slab climbing from the ground and thought I had already pulled the crux when I finnaly reached it. The excellent bolt job on this route was greatly appreciated, especially when I came flying off the crux! May 13, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
When I bolted this line, I tried to use the gear that Kurt Smith had originally placed. This was restricted to the last section of head wall. The anchor was his, but was reinforced with 1/2 inch bolts. I would agree, that as is often true of Clear Creek, the rock can vary from excellent to down right cruddy on the same route. But, for what it is worth, it is nice to have routes that those Denverites amongst us can jump on 20 to 30 minutes from work. If only it were Boulder Canyon, or better still, Siurana. Sep 4, 2001
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I agree that it's fun but it's still pretty chossy. And why is the anchor set in the middle of what appears to be a big flake? Sep 4, 2001
This is a really fun route! Jan 1, 2001