Elevation: 6,359 ft
GPS: 39.737, -105.316 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 103,219 total · 438/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Jun 4, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work Details

Description

This wall contains the classic Clear Creek testpiece, Sonic Youth. The rock here is solid, overhung and powerful. The belay for Sonic Youth is basically in the river, depending on the time of the year and the water level, which makes some of the logistics of getting down from the route difficult. But the climb is worth it. Late May through July are usually the months to avoid here as the belay beach is underwater. Unfortunately, the rock is in the shade and quite cold from November to late March, so pick your climbing season well.

Getting There

Park in the large paved pullout before Tunnel Two, (same as for Highwire Crag). Most of the year, the river is raging, so don't plan on crossing the creek. Instead, hike up the road toward the tunnel and cross the bridge (right side). Turn right and locate a small trail that leads back toward the cliff (north, downstream). Stay on this trail until you are beyond some treacherous cliffbands, and pay close attention for a faint right fork in the trail. The main trail will continue up the hill to Highlander Crag. Take this faint, right trending trail down toward the river and pass under a rock known as the Merlin Formation. There is one bolted route here called Merlin (5.11d). Pass this route and continue down the river along the river bed. If you miss this faint trail, you will end up taking a very steep, sketchy and loose descent with a cliff beneath you, so be careful. If you find yourself doing this hard descent, you are probably off the trail and should go back to find the right one. Keep walking downstream, sometimes hopping on rocks until you reach the belay beach for Sonic Youth. This approach only takes 5-10 minutes.

L->R:

This latest update is a bit unclear due to the lack of location descriptions in the writeups.

Unknown Craglet

A. Unknown at New River, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.

Merlin Formation

B. Merlin, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts.
C. Dragonslayer, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts.

New River Wall

D. Warm Up, 10, 1p, TR
E. Beta Test, 11, 1p, bolts.
above E. Master Beta, 12-, 1p, bolts, extension.
F. 13, 1p, bolts.
GH. Fountain of Youth, 13+, 1p, bolts.
H. Sonic Youth, 13-, 1p, bolts.
HHI1HI2I4. La Mega Positive , 14-, 1p, 65', bolts.
HI1H. Sonic Vibrations ], 14, 1p, 70', bolts.
HI1HI2. Positive Vibrations , 14, 1p, 70', bolts.
HI1HHI2HI1HI2. Good Vibrations , 14, 1p, 70', bolts.
HI1HI2I2. ??, 14, 1p, 60', bolts.
HI2. Sweet Inspirations, 13, 1p, 70', bolts.
I1H. Ali Natural , 14-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I1. Know Your Enemies , 14-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I1I2. Know Your Inclinations , 14-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I2H. Kinky Reggae, 14-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I3H. Kinky Reggae DS, 14-, 1p, 65', bolts.
I4H. Public Youth, 14-, 1p, 65', bolts.
I4. Public Enemy, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts.
continue above I. No More Enemies , 14-, 1p, 60', bolts.
continue above I->HI2. No More Inclinations , 14-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I4JI1. Public Execution , 14-, 1p, bolts or gear.
I2HHI2JI1. No More Crucifixions , 14-, 1p, 65', bolts.
JI1. Execution , 13, 1p, 65', bolts or gear.
JI2H? Enjoy Your Youth , 13+, 1p, 70', bolts.
JI2? Love Your Enemies , 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
JI2I2JI1. Crucifixtion , 13+, 1p, 65', bolts or gear.
JI2I2. Love Your Inclinations , 12, 1p, 65', bolts.
K. ?

??, 13, 1p, bolts - location?

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The New River Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Master Beta
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 63
Love Your Enemies
Trad, Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Dragonslayer
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 122
Sonic Youth
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 34
Public Enemy
Trad, Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 13
Sweet Inspirations
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Enjoy Your Youth
Sport
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
 4
Fountain of Youth
Sport
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
 11
Execution
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
Sweet Inclinations
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 4
Public Inclinations
Trad, Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 10
Kinky Reggae
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 4
Public Youth
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 3
Positive Vibrations
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 3
Public Execution
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Master Beta
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Love Your Enemies
 63
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Dragonslayer
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Sonic Youth
 122
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Public Enemy
 34
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad, Sport
Sweet Inspirations
 13
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Enjoy Your Youth
 4
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Fountain of Youth
 4
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a Sport
Execution
 11
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a Sport
Sweet Inclinations
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Public Inclinations
 4
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Trad, Sport
Kinky Reggae
 10
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Public Youth
 4
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Positive Vibrations
 3
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Public Execution
 3
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
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