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The Garden Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in The Garden Wall
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Cobra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shady Affair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shady Baby T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Shady Boy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shady Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 6,465 ft |
| GPS: | 39.737, -105.312 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 5,484 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Jan 4, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Description
The Garden Wall is a minor crag in CCC with four routes presently established in the range of 5.10 to 5.11. One of these is strictly trad, the other three being fully bolted. Several more short and steep lines will be done later in the year. The rock is granitic and very solid. Due to the heavy vegetation, most of the crag gets little sun, and this can be user-friendly on a hot day. TGW won't hold anything remarkable, but it can provide a short respite from the crowds and the summer heat. Several boulder problems might be worth checking out.
Getting There
TGW lies on the South side of the canyon and 200 meters East of Sonic Youth. Park as for Sonic or in a tiny pullout just East of the crag. No real trail exists, but a scruffy approach has been used enough to be identified. Otherwise scramble up from the lower angle terrain to the East. The approach time is 30 seconds or so.
Eds. there is a trail going to the left side of the cliff. A traverse of ~50 yards from the left side deposits you below the right side of the cliff.
Eds. there is a trail going to the left side of the cliff. A traverse of ~50 yards from the left side deposits you below the right side of the cliff.
L->R:
A. ?
B? Lockjaw, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Cobra, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. ?
E. Shady Boy, 10, 1p, 65', bolts.
FG. Shady Affair, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
G. Shady Girl, 10, 1p, 65', bolts.
H. Shady Baby, 9+ PG-13/R, 1p, 65', gear & bolts or TR.
B? Lockjaw, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Cobra, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. ?
E. Shady Boy, 10, 1p, 65', bolts.
FG. Shady Affair, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
G. Shady Girl, 10, 1p, 65', bolts.
H. Shady Baby, 9+ PG-13/R, 1p, 65', gear & bolts or TR.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Garden Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
4 Comments
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Guidebooks (16)
Denver
Broomfield, CO
The main wall has three bolted lines. Shady Boy is left and Shady Girl is on the right. The middle line is a variation of Shady Girl that climbs 4 bolts before it joins Shady Girl. I would say this is the hardest of the three. It's not listed here, does anyone know a name or rating?
There is also another bolted line about 50 feet left of Shady Boy. Also not listed here. Sep 23, 2014
Sprezzatura, Someday
walk east from the parking until you reach a 40 MPH sign on the north side of the road. Scramble up the hillside to the cliff near the base of Lockjaw.
Follow the cliff base west, with one more annoying steep uphill dirt scramble to reach the area around Cobra.
Continue west more easily along the base to reach the Shady Boys and Girls.
Be aware that while initial cruxes are ok, the upper slabs on these western routes aren't that shady in July!
It may be reasonable to approach more directly to the western end of the crag, but we didn't see any hint of a trail. Jul 19, 2016