Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

The Garden Wall is a minor crag in CCC with four routes presently established in the range of 5.10 to 5.11. One of these is strictly trad, the other three being fully bolted. Several more short and steep lines will be done later in the year. The rock is granitic and very solid. Due to the heavy vegetation, most of the crag gets little sun, and this can be user-friendly on a hot day. TGW won't hold anything remarkable, but it can provide a short respite from the crowds and the summer heat. Several boulder problems might be worth checking out.

Getting There

TGW lies on the South side of the canyon and 200 meters East of Sonic Youth. Park as for Sonic or in a tiny pullout just East of the crag. No real trail exists, but a scruffy approach has been used enough to be identified. Otherwise scramble up from the lower angle terrain to the East. The approach time is 30 seconds or so.

Eds. there is a trail going to the left side of the cliff. A traverse of ~50 yards from the left side deposits you below the right side of the cliff.

L->R:

A. ?
B? Lockjaw, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Cobra, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. ?
E. Shady Boy, 10, 1p, 65', bolts.
FG. Shady Affair, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
G. Shady Girl, 10, 1p, 65', bolts.
H. Shady Baby, 9+ PG-13/R, 1p, 65', gear & bolts or TR.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Garden Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Lockjaw
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lockjaw
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
Does anyone know how hard the route to the left of Shady Boy is? I have not done it, but I wish I knew what it is. Jul 23, 2014
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
I could be wrong, but I'm trying to clarify for everyone (or the 3 people who actually trek up here).

The main wall has three bolted lines. Shady Boy is left and Shady Girl is on the right. The middle line is a variation of Shady Girl that climbs 4 bolts before it joins Shady Girl. I would say this is the hardest of the three. It's not listed here, does anyone know a name or rating?

There is also another bolted line about 50 feet left of Shady Boy. Also not listed here. Sep 23, 2014
The middle bolted line (Shady Affair) has the most difficult start. I would rate it 11-. Dec 9, 2014
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
The easiest approach might be:
walk east from the parking until you reach a 40 MPH sign on the north side of the road. Scramble up the hillside to the cliff near the base of Lockjaw.

Follow the cliff base west, with one more annoying steep uphill dirt scramble to reach the area around Cobra.

Continue west more easily along the base to reach the Shady Boys and Girls.

Be aware that while initial cruxes are ok, the upper slabs on these western routes aren't that shady in July!

It may be reasonable to approach more directly to the western end of the crag, but we didn't see any hint of a trail. Jul 19, 2016