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Routes in The New River Wall
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Ali Natural S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Beta Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crucifixtion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dragonslayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Enjoy Your Youth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Execution S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Fountain of Youth S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Good Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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High Vibrations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Kinky Reggae S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Kinky Reggae DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Know Your Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Know Your Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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La Mega Positive S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Love Your Enemies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Love Your Inclinations T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Master Beta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Merlin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No More Crucifixions S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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No More Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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No More Enemies DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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No More Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Positive Vibrations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Public Crucifixion S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Public Enemy T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Public Enemy DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Public Execution S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Public Inclinations T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Public Inclinations DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Public Youth S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Solicitor S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sonic Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Sonic Youth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sweet Inclinations S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Sweet Inspirations S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Unknown at New River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Kurt Smith/Mike Pont, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 42,600 total · 146/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
This is one of Clear Creek's best climbs. The route ascends the steep ceiling and finishes with an awesome, overhung dihedral. The route used to be rated 12d, so maybe the correct rating is 12d/13a. Either way this route will challenge you. The initial moves are powerful, but solid, while the final crux requires endurance and good body tension. There are some classic moves on the route that will leave you smiling. A couple moderate rests can be found to help with the redpoint effort. It is highly recommended.
Protection
9 bolts, 3 coldshuts anchor. The third clip on this route is tricky to make. Cleaning this route can be done by threading the rope up through the coldshut on the arete and then the two out right. This prevents the rope from running over the sharp edge. Or it is possible to lower off the coldshut on the arete and the last bolt on the climb if fixed gear is in place. Lowering here will put you about five feet out in the river, but it is possible to keep dry by stepping on some rocks, or have your belayer reach out to you.
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