Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith/Mike Pont, 1990
Page Views: 41,934 total · 149/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is one of Clear Creek's best climbs. The route ascends the steep ceiling and finishes with an awesome, overhung dihedral. The route used to be rated 12d, so maybe the correct rating is 12d/13a. Either way this route will challenge you. The initial moves are powerful, but solid, while the final crux requires endurance and good body tension. There are some classic moves on the route that will leave you smiling. A couple moderate rests can be found to help with the redpoint effort. It is highly recommended.

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts, 3 coldshuts anchor. The third clip on this route is tricky to make. Cleaning this route can be done by threading the rope up through the coldshut on the arete and then the two out right. This prevents the rope from running over the sharp edge. Or it is possible to lower off the coldshut on the arete and the last bolt on the climb if fixed gear is in place. Lowering here will put you about five feet out in the river, but it is possible to keep dry by stepping on some rocks, or have your belayer reach out to you.