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Routes in The New River Wall
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Ali Natural S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Beta Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crucifixtion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dragonslayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Enjoy Your Youth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Execution S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Fountain of Youth S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Good Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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High Vibrations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Kinky Reggae S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Kinky Reggae DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Know Your Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Know Your Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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La Mega Positive S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Love Your Enemies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Love Your Inclinations T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Master Beta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Merlin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No More Crucifixions S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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No More Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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No More Enemies DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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No More Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Positive Vibrations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Public Crucifixion S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Public Enemy T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Public Enemy DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Public Execution S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Public Inclinations T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Public Inclinations DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Public Youth S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Solicitor S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sonic Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Sonic Youth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sweet Inclinations S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Sweet Inspirations S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Unknown at New River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 39.73704, -105.31624 |
| FA: | Chris Deuto |
| Page Views: | 483 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Deuto on May 17, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
For years, the mysterious, upper tiers of New River Wall supported rumors of artificial holds and improbable natural sequences. Recently these roofs have been properly bolted and worked, yielding a few amazing, bouldery routes in an outstanding position.
High Vibrations is the leftmost route out of this trio and begins by climbing Love Your Enemies to the anchor. Skipping the chain draw, clip a bolt out left, and execute a V5 traverse sequence that feels airy and interesting. A long chain can be clipped before shuffling even further left and copping a no-hands rest at Execution’s anchors. Rest up completely, and immediately fire into a nasty shoulder move to get established on the upper wall. Brilliant tension climbing and beta intensive moves finally break for a moment at a sharp, left hand pocket. The next few moves are juggy, exposed, hero climbing to the finish; although I did find them to be quite pumpy and hard from the bottom.
For those concerned about difficult clips, skipping the last two bolts and whipping from the top of the wall is a HUGE (albeit completely clean) fall. Get after it!
Location
It is the leftmost line out of NRW’s “legacy routes.” Start on Love Your Enemies, hand traverse under the large roof to a rest over left, then climb back up the bulging headwall. Finish at long chain anchors.
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