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Routes in The New River Wall

Ali Natural S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Aqua Huck V5 6C
Aquabats V6 7A
Arete V1-2 5
Beta Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Strength V6-7 7A+
Crucifixtion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dark Waters V12-13 8B
Dark Waters Stand V9 7C
Dark Waters Traverse V10 7C+
Deep Sea Angler V7-8 7B
Dragonslayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Enjoy Your Youth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Execution S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Flash Flood V6- 7A
Fluid Mechanic V9 7C
Formula 50 V11 8A
Formula 500 V12 8A+
Fountain of Youth S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Good Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Green Herbs'n Sam V7 7A+
High Waters V5-6 6C+
Infinity V1 5
Kinky Reggae S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Kinky Reggae DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Know Your Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Know Your Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
La Mega Positive S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Love Your Enemies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Love Your Inclinations T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Master Beta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Merlin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mobbin' Around V10-11 8A
No More Crucifixions S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
No More Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
No More Enemies DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
No More Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Positive Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Public Crucifixion S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Public Enemy T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Enemy DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Execution S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Public Inclinations T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Inclinations DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Youth S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Red Makes Me Angry! V6-7 7A+
Sonic Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Sonic Youth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Swamp Traverse V9 7C
Sweet Inclinations S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sweet Inspirations S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Than's Problem? V8 7B
Unknown at New River S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wet Carrot (aka Under Your Clings) V6-7 7A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,662 total · 8/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a spooky warm-up for "Sonic Youth", running up the middle of the wall to the left. Scramble up the ramp until bolts lead up overhanging rock onto the wall. The crux comes quickly, with fingery layaways with sketchy feet past the second clip. The spook factor comes from having to climb until your feet are above the bolt before it eases and you snag the third clip. It feels quite possible to skate off while balancing for the clip. The upper half is an easy hike to the anchors.

Protection

Four bolts to to anchor bolts with 1/2" hooks under the roof.

Photos

Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
Knitting? Sep 18, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11c
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11c
I whipped off above the second bolt and felt that the fall was fine. I think the bolts are right where they need to be and give the route a little extra excitement. If you're worried about safety, then you might want to take up another activity other than climbing. Sep 18, 2008
Kris S
Ocean Beach, SF
Kris S   Ocean Beach, SF
Very insecure crux, could use another bolt. This is a safety concern, not just because I was pissing myself here (and that's a nasty mess), but also because I took several unpleasant falls into the edge of the roof below. Unnecessarily sketchy/dangerous for a sport route in CCC in my opinion. Other than that, the route looks and climbs very well. May 9, 2008