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Routes in The New River Wall

Ali Natural S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Aqua Huck V5 6C
Aquabats V6 7A
Arete V1-2 5
Beta Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Strength V6-7 7A+
Break the Ice V8- 7B PG13
Crucifixtion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dark Waters V12-13 8B
Dark Waters Stand V9 7C
Dark Waters Traverse V10 7C+
Deep Sea Angler V7-8 7B
Dragonslayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Enjoy Your Youth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Execution S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Flash Flood V6- 7A
Fluid Mechanic V9 7C
Formula 50 V11 8A
Formula 500 V12 8A+
Fountain of Youth S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Good Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Green Herbs'n Sam V7 7A+
High Waters V5-6 6C+
Infinity V1 5
Kinky Reggae S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Kinky Reggae DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Know Your Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Know Your Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
La Mega Positive S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Light Waters V6- 7A PG13
Love Your Enemies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Love Your Inclinations T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Master Beta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Merlin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mobbin' Around V10-11 8A
No More Crucifixions S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
No More Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
No More Enemies DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
No More Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Positive Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Public Crucifixion S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Public Enemy T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Enemy DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Execution S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Public Inclinations T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Inclinations DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Youth S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Red Makes Me Angry! V6-7 7A+
Sonic Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Sonic Youth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Swamp Traverse V9 7C
Sweet Inclinations S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sweet Inspirations S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Than's Problem? V8 7B
Unknown at New River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Carrot (aka Under Your Clings) V6-7 7A+
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: ????????
Page Views: 142 total · 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This route is on a separate outcropping upstream from the New River Wall. Follow the approach for Highlander and New River Wall for about 100 yards. As the trail hits a small flat area and heads up left, look down and right to find an outcropping with 2 bolts at the lip and a third as backup about 10 feet from the lip.

Figure out how to get down. I set up a rappel at the anchors with the single bolt as backup and rappelled about 50 feet down and right to the lower anchors (on a sloping shelf just off the water). Watch the ends of your rope or coil them and feed as you rappel to keep your rope dry! Another possibility would be to rappel off a separate line, setup to stay out of the river.

Follow 3 bolts up and left over relatively easy terrain. Crank up and over a small roof (crux - 1 more bolt) and head for the anchors. This is a fun route with great position right off the river. It's just too short.

Protection

Quickdraws for 4 bolts and 2-bolt top and bottom anchors.

Photos

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Geoff Elson
  5.9
Geoff Elson  
  5.9
In the event that you find yourself needing to climb this good but very unremarkable short route, I would recommend top belaying and lower down the climber. Leading this route is completely useless and unnecessary. Jul 29, 2009
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9
I agree with Geoff. Nice little climb, with quality if not quantity. Easiest to belay from top and keep your rope dry. Oct 16, 2012

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