Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jason Baker (6/08)
Page Views: 2,602 total · 20/month
Shared By: half-pad-mini-jug on Jun 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This short bouldery route starts on the right side of the wall. Fight through a crux sequence of small crimps and a fun sloper just after the first bolt, up to a crimp below the second bolt. Pull up and gain a jug to clip and chalk up. Another short boulder problem awaits getting to the 3rd bolt and a rest jug under the roof. (Be careful of a sizeable chunk underneath the roof with an "x" on it... I tried to pull it out, but it didn't budge, but still be aware...) Finally, fun and easy climbing takes you over the roof with a long reach, and then up left to the anchors.

Location

This route is located on the Merlin formation, it's just to the right of Merlin. Follow the New River trail.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor equipped with rap rings.

Photos

jesse mascarenas  
5.13a
Great Climb! V7 crux into easy 12ish climbing. Who bolted this amazing route??? Jun 17, 2008
Jerad Friedrichs
Colorado Springs
 
Jerad Friedrichs   Colorado Springs
 
Sweet route Jason. This route definitely needs to be done while its cool to get some friction. Got on the other day in the heat and sun and it was SO greasy. Jun 29, 2008
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
13a? nice route jason, short but sweet. Jul 16, 2012
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
Either a hold broke or this rig is sandbagged, because the boulder problem is easily V7, which would make this route 13a - not 12d. Jul 11, 2014
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  5.12d
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  5.12d
Even though V7 is roughly 13a, it does not always translate directly. Due to the short nature of this route, it does not warrant a 13a. I felt the crux to be more V6ish anyway.... Jul 20, 2014
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I guess I need some beta. Jul 28, 2014