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Routes in The New River Wall

Ali Natural S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Aqua Huck V5 6C
Aquabats V6 7A
Arete V1-2 5
Beta Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Strength V6-7 7A+
Crucifixtion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dark Waters V12-13 8B
Dark Waters Stand V9 7C
Dark Waters Traverse V10 7C+
Deep Sea Angler V7-8 7B
Dragonslayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Enjoy Your Youth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Execution S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Flash Flood V6- 7A
Fluid Mechanic V9 7C
Formula 50 V11 8A
Formula 500 V12 8A+
Fountain of Youth S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Good Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Green Herbs'n Sam V7 7A+
High Waters V5-6 6C+
Infinity V1 5
Kinky Reggae S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Kinky Reggae DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Know Your Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Know Your Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
La Mega Positive S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Love Your Enemies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Love Your Inclinations T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Master Beta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Merlin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mobbin' Around V10-11 8A
No More Crucifixions S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
No More Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
No More Enemies DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
No More Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Positive Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Public Crucifixion S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Public Enemy T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Enemy DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Execution S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Public Inclinations T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Inclinations DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Youth S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Red Makes Me Angry! V6-7 7A+
Sonic Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Sonic Youth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Swamp Traverse V9 7C
Sweet Inclinations S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sweet Inspirations S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Than's Problem? V8 7B
Unknown at New River S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wet Carrot (aka Under Your Clings) V6-7 7A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jason Baker (6/08)
Page Views: 2,487 total, 21/month
Shared By: half-pad-mini-jug on Jun 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This short bouldery route starts on the right side of the wall. Fight through a crux sequence of small crimps and a fun sloper just after the first bolt, up to a crimp below the second bolt. Pull up and gain a jug to clip and chalk up. Another short boulder problem awaits getting to the 3rd bolt and a rest jug under the roof. (Be careful of a sizeable chunk underneath the roof with an "x" on it... I tried to pull it out, but it didn't budge, but still be aware...) Finally, fun and easy climbing takes you over the roof with a long reach, and then up left to the anchors.

Location

This route is located on the Merlin formation, it's just to the right of Merlin. Follow the New River trail.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor equipped with rap rings.

Photos

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I guess I need some beta. Jul 28, 2014
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
Even though V7 is roughly 13a, it does not always translate directly. Due to the short nature of this route, it does not warrant a 13a. I felt the crux to be more V6ish anyway.... Jul 20, 2014
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
Either a hold broke or this rig is sandbagged, because the boulder problem is easily V7, which would make this route 13a - not 12d. Jul 11, 2014
mlloyd
denver
mlloyd   denver
13a? nice route jason, short but sweet. Jul 16, 2012
Jerad Friedrichs
Colorado Springs
 
Jerad Friedrichs   Colorado Springs
 
Sweet route Jason. This route definitely needs to be done while its cool to get some friction. Got on the other day in the heat and sun and it was SO greasy. Jun 29, 2008
jesse mascarenas  
5.13a
Great Climb! V7 crux into easy 12ish climbing. Who bolted this amazing route??? Jun 17, 2008