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Routes in The New River Wall

Ali Natural S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Aqua Huck V5 6C
Aquabats V6 7A
Arete V1-2 5
Beta Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Strength V6-7 7A+
Crucifixtion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dark Waters V12-13 8B
Dark Waters Stand V9 7C
Dark Waters Traverse V10 7C+
Deep Sea Angler V7-8 7B
Dragonslayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Enjoy Your Youth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Execution S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Flash Flood V6- 7A
Fluid Mechanic V9 7C
Formula 50 V11 8A
Formula 500 V12 8A+
Fountain of Youth S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Good Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Green Herbs'n Sam V7 7A+
High Waters V5-6 6C+
Infinity V1 5
Kinky Reggae S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Kinky Reggae DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Know Your Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Know Your Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
La Mega Positive S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Love Your Enemies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Love Your Inclinations T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Master Beta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Merlin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mobbin' Around V10-11 8A
No More Crucifixions S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
No More Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
No More Enemies DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
No More Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Positive Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Public Crucifixion S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Public Enemy T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Enemy DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Execution S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Public Inclinations T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Inclinations DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Youth S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Red Makes Me Angry! V6-7 7A+
Sonic Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Sonic Youth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Swamp Traverse V9 7C
Sweet Inclinations S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sweet Inspirations S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Than's Problem? V8 7B
Unknown at New River S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wet Carrot (aka Under Your Clings) V6-7 7A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian Kimball
Page Views: 2,915 total, 36/month
Shared By: Brian Kimball on Apr 28, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb 3 bolts up the slab, then traverse left and upward to join and finish on Public Enemy.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
How many draws do you clip to the end of this route? Do you just finish at a single draw when you hit Public Enemy? It seemed amazing except for not knowing where people are climbing to to call it 12b. I climbed up the slab for two clips with super long draws then went left one draw past Public Enemy. Then it looked like one more draw which I assume would be the 13c Enjoy Your Youth. What I did seemed super high stars but felt maybe 12a not 12b. Any thoughts??? Reminded me of Orangahang at Rumney!!! but way easier. Nov 9, 2016
Michael Hauck
  5.12a/b
Michael Hauck  
  5.12a/b
Lead this route on gear yesterday, was really fun with thinner gear than you would expect. I used BD #1, 2, 0.4, and green, red, and yellow C3s! Mar 23, 2016
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12a
Kch16, New River Wall and the trail to it are both open. Just be sure to stay in the US Route 6 corridor as you approach. With a close look at the sign, you can see the corridor that is still open.
From JeffCo website http://jeffco.us/open-space/news/2016/seasonal-wildlife-closures-to-begin-february-1/ "another area of Clear Creek Canyon Park, near Tunnel 2, is closed to all public use uphill of the U.S. Route 6 corridor from February 1 through July 31 to protect an active golden eagle nesting territory. This closure encompasses the following rock climbing sites: Highlander, Evil Area, and Tetanus Garden."

Thanks to the rangers for keeping the corridor and New River Wall open! Mar 16, 2016
kch16
Denver, CO
kch16   Denver, CO
I parked at the New River Wall today to go High Wire. There were two signs posted on the road clearly stating the areas and dates of closure, with the New River Wall being one of the areas closed to climbing until July 31 due to raptor nesting. However, there was a guy working this route (or it could have been Public Enemy he was one but can't be sure cuz I've never climbed on this wall) being belayed by some chick. Mar 12, 2016
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
  5.12-
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
  5.12-
This route follows two bolts up the slab and then cuts left onto the face. The third bolt on the slab has been stripped of its hanger, but it isn't needed (too high, increased drag). Then follow four bolts left and up to a one bolt anchor with a chain draw in the roof. Nov 5, 2015
James  
Can someone explain the anchors being gone on this route?
It looks like the anchor is gone and the route is extended, and I was wondering how hard the rest of the route is now? Mar 27, 2015
slim    
Agree with Monty. I've seen this happen several times - the nut works its way loose over time and is just hanging on by a thread. Then it pops off when the rope is weighted. Oct 16, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
I did this route the same day after finishing Sonic last summer. I was amazed with how good the route was. A little airy and spooky which makes it super fun! It's got a great overhanging traverse on big jugs. The crux is at the very top when the jugs thin out and you have to do some big moves as the pump culminates. Amazing route, thanks for putting it up. This rivals the best 5.12b anywhere, with great climbing, great position on bullet hard beautiful stone. Do it! Jan 13, 2012
Wade  
I did not retro bolt this route, a bolt was pulling out, so I added a extra one, I would have pulled it out, but it wouldn't come loose, I yellow tagged it, so no one would use it. By the description that Brian gave, this route is what I though was Public Enemy. Brian, you can leave the name, I like it. I'd say 12b or c?

wader Jun 22, 2011
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
  5.12b
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
  5.12b
I have no clue, dude. Someone altered your bolt??? Jun 5, 2011
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
  5.12b
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
  5.12b
I am with Brian, the route felt a little soft to me. It is very much my style though and with out a doubt the best 12b in the canyon.

It also makes a wonderful warm up for climbing on almost anything else at the wall. May 3, 2011
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
Nice work, Brian, thanks for all your hard work at The New River Area, it's awesome! Can't wait to get on it! Apr 28, 2011