Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian Kimball
Page Views: 5,076 total · 27/month
Shared By: Brian Kimball on Sep 7, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Climb straight up the right side of the wall using one old drilled pocket.

Location

To be edited in.

Protection

Bolts.

Per john crawley: as of 10/28/2018, this route is no longer safe to climb. The crux and following bolts are not safe to climb on. The crux bolt is hand screwable, and the following hanger flew off the wall with the fixed draw.

Photos

If Wade is establishing new routes, then expect the bar to be raised. 12d equates to the level he boulders at in flip flops. Sep 28, 2005
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Someone unscrewed the hanger from the third bolt and left the hanger/quicklink/draw at the base. I found the nut and replaced the hanger with a new draw (I attached the sling that was on there to the first draw on the slab). Just wanted to know why this hanger was unscrewed? Oh, and I replaced the quick link with a big beefy stainless one. So psyched on this route and soooooo close to sending! Thanks for the revival of this crag, Brian! Nov 20, 2011
Train4life
Boulder, CO
Train4life   Boulder, CO
On Public Enemy/Kinky Reggae, one of the hangers and permadraws DID, in fact, come out of the wall. One of my buddies is working on putting it back in and getting this route back to safe and operational! Oct 2, 2015
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
Keep a close eye on the bolt hangers on this wall. The steepness contributes to gradual loosening of the nut, and the long permadraws make it easy to not notice loose hangers.

Two hangers/draws actually fell off of Public Enemy. The third draw, counting the first clip on the slab, was rehung, but the fourth is still just a stud. This bolt may be tough to clip on RP anyway, but, in its current state, a fall from the dyno requires a really soft catch to kill the momentum and keep the climber from a hard pendulum onto the slab below. Nov 5, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
  5.13c
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
  5.13c
This is a great route with fun movement. Power is the name of the game. Exciting and airy in its current state of missing a hanger and nut at the crux moves. Kimball, slice, and I tried to put it back on but found the stud to be stripped. It's safe to skip in its current state and clip the next, despite some previous comments. I took the whip and you end up well above the slab. Have fun. Get some! Apr 8, 2016
john crawley
Westminster, CO
john crawley   Westminster, CO
As of 10/28/2018, this route is no longer safe to climb. The crux and following bolt are not safe to climb on. The crux bolt is hand screwable, and the following hanger flew off the wall with the fixed draw. The draw and hanger is currently at Bent Gate for anyone who wants to attempt to rehang the draw. I will attempt to get out there in the next two weeks to replace the bolts entirely. If anyone would like to do the task before that, feel free. Just ask someone at Bent Gate in Golden for the perma-draw, and they can get it to you. Oct 28, 2018 · Temporary Report