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Routes in The Garden Wall

Cobra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shady Affair S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shady Baby T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Shady Boy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shady Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Dave Rogers, LP
Page Views: 114 total · 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 16, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is another line that is just to the right of Shady Girl at the Garden Wall. This obvious line called out to be cleaned and climbed. It's partially clean at this point. A brush would be useful. It is probably safer as a TR than a lead.

Start about 6 feet to the right of Shady Girl. Follow a dihedral. The crux is likely exiting the tight dihedral on marginal gear (PG-13 or R). A decent #2 RP protects the exit from this dihedral. Higher up, you can finish left of a large, questionable block by clipping the last 3 bolts of Shady Girl or right on moderate face if on TR.

Rappel off the anchors for Shady Girl.

Just to clarify, the block sitting up ~3/4'rds the way up is too big to just launch with the road just below. It's fairly easy to avoid climbing right or left.

FWIW, this would be more challenging to lead for a shorter climber.

Location

This ascends a dihedral about 6 feet to the right of Shady Girl.

Protection

TR or a possible rack of red Alien, #0.75 Camalot, green Alien, #1 BD (marginal) or a knifeblade, #2 RP, #0.5 Camalot, blue Alien, yellow Alien, 3 bolts.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
These climbs are in the shade and probably little traffic...which allows the vegetation to regrow. We spent a good bit of time cleaning out this crack, leaving a decent pile of dirt and debris at the base. Jul 15, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+ PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+ PG13
This route has not been cleaned very much. It still has vegetation in the crack. It can be top roped after doing one of the nearby sport routes, but there is no safe and easy way to set up a top rope otherwise. Jul 15, 2014

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