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Routes in The Talon

Let The Peacock Fly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Little Stephen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where Eagles Dare S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Description

High on the south side of Clear Creek Canyon juts an arching finger of bullet metamorphic stone. The partially detached mini-tower teeters to the north and west, providing two overhanging faces and three memorable climbs. The northwest prow hosts one of the better hard routes in the canyon (and perhaps the best arête climb), but all the routes here are worth doing owing to spectacular position and excellent, featured stone.

Routes L --> R:

1. Little Stephen, 11, 40’ 1p, 5B to 2BA.
2. Where Eagles Dare, 13, 35’, 1p, 4B to 2BA.
3. Let The Peacock Fly, 13-, 30’, 1p, 4B to 2BA.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

Begin by crossing the river. The easiest place to cross is about 50 feet downstream of the east end of the New Economy Cliff, where the river is relatively broad and shallow. This crossing is only safe in low water. See here for current Clear Creek flow rates.


See athe pproach topo. Once across the river, head back downstream, through the woods, to the first large talus field (almost directly below the Talon). Ascend this field to near its top, then head east to the toe of the next downstream talus field. Ascend this field to its top, then pick up a faint trail near a huge pine tree. Follow this trail for about 50 feet until it emerges in a narrow gully. Head up this gully for about 200 feet, then again head east, back into the woods, switchbacking up a steep hillside to the bottom of the Talon. Traverse under the tower to the west side to reach a nice flat-ish belay ledge.

3 Total Climbs

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