Elevation: 7,400 ft
GPS: 39.741, -105.41 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 236,373 total · 1,062/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Creek Side may or may not be a good name for this wall. Nothing has been published that I have found and no name has been ascribed to the crag. Now, this seems odd inasmuch as Creek Side is largest expanse of continuous stone in Clear Creek - bigger than the Mission Wall by at least 100 feet and more continuous than The Little Eiger. The crag towers over 400 feet above the stream, faces depressingly due East, and [used to see] virtually no climbing. It is dark, cold, and windy most of the day except for a spell in the morning when it gets full sun. To make matters worse, the crag appears to be composed of fractured, friable, appalling stone. However, in the '60s, Layton Kor and colleagues punched up a mixed route that exited a large open-book dihedral at the 200 foot mark. This line has been repeated occasionally since then, and at least one fatality has been reported from the '70s. So, Creek Side is not without some history. Furthermore, at least two old lines have been climbed on the crag's West flank. One runs 50 or 60 feet to a pine tree/rap station. Another wanders the entire length of the west wall, but good luck trying to replicate the line - it has no obvious distinguishing characteristic. In 2002, a five pitch line was installed that punches up on the left side of the East-facing, open-book dihedral. The name of the game here is exposure, with a capital E. More importantly, the large confusion of irregularities has, in fact, turned up some terrific, bullet-proof stone. It appears that the time has come to see what this big puppy holds.

Getting There

Park as for the Catslab/Dog Wall just West of tunnel five. Hop over the guardrail as though heading for the Dog Wall but follow the creek West for 250 yards. This will access the East side of the crag only.

To access the west side, you climb a tree with a rope hanging down. You can clip into loops to sort of back you up. 25 feet up, you cross a tyrolean to the Guppy pod.

Note, if you wade the river, you must lead up to the belay pod to start. Plus, there isn't really a great place to switch shoes below the Guppy pod.

L->R:

Binge-Side is the far left side containing:

A. Are There Bolts Up There?, 10- R, 3p, 400', gear.
B. Winterfest, 9+, 1p, 55', bolts.
C. Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush, 10+, 1p, 55', bolts.
D. 100 Proof, 12-, 1p, 65', bolts.
above C. Macho Borracho, 12, 1p, 140', bolts.
E. Breninivin, 12+, 2p, 150', gear & bolts.
...E1. Variation a, P1, 10, bolts.
...E2. Variation b, P1, 9+/10- bolts.

Creek-Side which is accessed by the high tyrol contains:

F. Shenanigans, 6-7, 1p, 95', bolts.
G. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p, gear & bolts.
H. Fish & Chips, 9+, 1p, 115', bolts.
I. Guppy, 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.
J. Clown Loach (temporary name)?, 8 or 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.
KI. Crackside Direct, 9+, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.
L. Crackside, 9+, 1p, 115', gear & bolts.
M. Fish Bowl, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.

Bro-Side is the intimidating middle section containing:

N. Fool's Gold, 12+, 5p, bolts.
O. Labor Day, 10+, 2p, 120', bolts.
P. Psychotic Love, 10 R, 3p, 450', gear.
Q. Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben Memorial Route), 11, 5p, 420', bolts & gear.
R. Left of Corner, 9, 1p, 90', bolts.
S. Unknown Big Black Flake, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
T. Unknown, 90', 1p, bolts.
U. Little Sister, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.

Gold-Side is the area containing:

V. Black Gold, 7+, 5p, 400', bolts & gear?
W. Furlough Day, 9, 2-3p, TR now retrobolts.
X1. Solid Gold, 11+, 5p, 450', bolts & gear.
X2. First Spun Gold, 12-, 2p var, 450', bolts.
X3. The Golden Hammer, 12-, 4p, 450', bolts.
X4. Creekafixion, 11 PG-13, 2p, 135', bolts.
X5. 1972 Kor/Bracksieck Crack to Dihedral, 8, 4p, 400', gear.
X6. Playin' Hooky, 8-, 2p, 200', bolts.
Y. PTO, 8+, 1p, 80-100', now bolts.
Z. The Oyster Bar, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
AA. Creek Nation, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
BB. Project, 9+, 1p, 90', project.
CC. Creek Dance, 9-, 2p, 200', bolts.
DD. The Art of the Deal, 8?, 4p, 415', gear.
EE. Under the Influence, 13+, 1p, 65', bolts.

Gully

Stoked Bowl

A. Get Stoked, 10, 75', 1p, bolts.
B. Don't Hate, 12+, 80', 1p, bolts.
C. Unknown Roof, 13?, 1p, bolts.
D. Try These Nachos, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Clouds In My Coffee, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Hateraid, 11-, 1p, 25', bolts.
G. Haters Gunna Hate, 11-, 1p, bolts.

Traverse Rope Hazard

Per Matthew Vernon: in 12/17, the traverse rope from the Guppy pod left towards Brennevin, etc. has a section cut.

35 Total Climbs

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Location: Creek Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Creek Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 185
Black Gold
Sport 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 814
Playin' Hooky
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 243
Guppy
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
PTO
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 37
The Oyster Bar
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 97
Furlough Day
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 143
Fish and Chips
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 24
Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben Memo…
Trad 6 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 21
Creekafixion
Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 21
Rhett Wench
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 101
Solid Gold
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 27
100 Proof
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Macho Borracho
Sport 2 pitches
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
Brennivin
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 8
Under the Influence
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Gold
 185
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 5 pitches
Playin' Hooky
 814
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 4 pitches
Guppy
 243
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
PTO
 59
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Oyster Bar
 37
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Furlough Day
 97
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fish and Chips
 143
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben…
 24
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 6 pitches
Creekafixion
 21
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 2 pitches
Rhett Wench
 21
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Solid Gold
 101
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport 5 pitches
100 Proof
 27
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Macho Borracho
 19
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
Brennivin
 12
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Under the Influence
 8
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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