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Elevation: 7,400 ft 2,256 m
GPS: 39.74102, -105.41042
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Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Creek Side may or may not be a good name for this wall. Nothing has been published that I have found and no name has been ascribed to the crag. Now, this seems odd inasmuch as Creek Side is the largest expanse of continuous stone in Clear Creek Canyon - bigger than the Mission Wall by at least 100 feet and more continuous than The Little Eiger. The crag towers over 400 feet above the stream, faces depressingly due East, and [used to see] virtually no climbing. It is dark, cold, and windy most of the day except for a spell in the morning when it gets full sun. To make matters worse, the crag appears to be composed of fractured, friable, appalling stone. However, in the '60s, Layton Kor and colleagues punched up a mixed route that exited a large open-book dihedral at the 200 foot mark. This line has been repeated occasionally since then, and at least one fatality has been reported from the '70s. So, Creek Side is not without some history. Furthermore, at least two old lines have been climbed on the crag's West flank. One runs 50 or 60 feet to a pine tree/rap station. Another wanders the entire length of the west wall, but good luck trying to replicate the line - it has no obvious distinguishing characteristic. In 2002, a five pitch line was installed that punches up on the left side of the East-facing, open-book dihedral. The name of the game here is exposure, with a capital E. More importantly, the large confusion of irregularities has, in fact, turned up some terrific, bullet-proof stone. It appears that the time has come to see what this big puppy holds.

Getting There Suggest change

Park as for the Catslab/Dog Wall just West of tunnel five. Hop over the guardrail as though heading for the Dog Wall but follow the creek West for 250 yards. This will access the East side of the crag only.

To access the west side, you climb a tree with a rope hanging down. You can clip into loops to sort of back you up. 25 feet up, you cross a tyrolean to the Guppy pod.

Note, if you wade the river, you must lead up to the belay pod to start. Plus, there isn't really a great place to switch shoes below the Guppy pod.

L->R:

Suggest change

Binge-Side is the far left side containing:

A. Are There Bolts Up There?, 10- R, 3p, 400', gear.

B. Christmas Spirits, 7, 1p, 40', bolts.

C. Winterfest, 9+, 1p, 55', bolts.

D. Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush, 10+, 1p, 55', bolts.

E. 100 Proof, 12-, 1p, 65', bolts.

above E. Macho Borracho, 12, 1p, 140', bolts.

F. Breninivin, 12+, 2p, 150', gear & bolts.

...F1. Variation a, P1, 10, bolts.

...F2. Variation b, P1, 9+/10- bolts.

Creek-Side which is accessed by the high tyrol contains:

G. Shenanigans, 6-7, 1p, 95', bolts.

H. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p, gear & bolts.

I. Fish & Chips, 9+, 1p, 115', bolts.

J. Guppy, 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.

K. Clown Loach (temporary name)?, 8 or 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.

LJ. Crackside Direct, 9+, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.

M. Crackside, 9+, 1p, 115', gear & bolts.

N. Fish Bowl, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.

Bro-Side is the intimidating middle section containing:

O. Fool's Gold, 12+, 5p, bolts.

P. Labor Day, 10+, 2p, 120', bolts.

Q. Psychotic Love, 10 R, 3p, 450', gear.

R. Bro's Gold, 11, 2p, 185', gear & bolts.

S. Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben Memorial Route), 11, 5p, 420', bolts & gear.

T. Left of Corner, 9, 1p, 90', bolts.

U. Unknown Big Black Flake, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.

V. Unknown, 90', 1p, bolts.

W. Little Sister, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.

Gold-Side is the area containing:

X. Black Gold, 7+, 5p, 400', bolts & gear?

Y. Furlough Day, 9, 2-3p, TR now retrobolts.

Z1. Solid Gold, 11+, 5p, 450', bolts & gear.

Z2. First Spun Gold, 12-, 2p var, 450', bolts.

Z3. The Golden Hammer, 12-, 4p, 450', bolts.

Z4. Creekafixion, 11 PG-13, 2p, 135', bolts.

Z5. 1972 Kor/Bracksieck Crack to Dihedral, 8, 4p, 400', gear.

Z6. Playin' Hooky, 8-, 2p, 200', bolts.

AA. PTO, 8+, 1p, 80-100', now bolts.

BB. The Oyster Bar, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.

CC. Creek Nation, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.

DD. Project, 9+, 1p, 90', project.

EE. Creek Dance, 9-, 2p, 200', bolts.

FF. The Art of the Deal, 8?, 4p, 415', gear.

GG. Under the Influence, 13+, 1p, 50', bolts & permadraws.

HH. Under the Influence, 13+, 1p, 65', bolts.

Gully

Stoked Bowl

A. Get Stoked, 10, 75', 1p, bolts.

B. Don't Hate, 12+, 80', 1p, bolts.

C. Unknown Roof, 13?, 1p, bolts.

D. Try These Nachos, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.

E. Clouds In My Coffee, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.

F. Hateraid, 11-, 1p, 25', bolts.

G. Haters Gunna Hate, 11-, 1p, bolts.

Traverse Rope Hazard

Suggest change

Per Matthew Vernon: on 12/17/2017, the traverse rope from the Guppy pod left towards Brennevin, etc. has a section cut.

39 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Creek Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Creek Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 307
Black Gold
Sport 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 312
Guppy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1,174
Playin' Hooky
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 131
Furlough Day
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 176
Fish and Chips
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 30
Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben Memo…
Trad 6 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 23
Rhett Wench
Sport 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 33
Creekafixion
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 133
Solid Gold
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 35
100 Proof
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
The Golden Hammer
Sport 4 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 20
Macho Borracho
Sport 2 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 8
Fool's Gold
Sport 5 pitches
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 15
Brennivin
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 10
Under the Influence
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Gold
 307
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 5 pitches
Guppy
 312
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Playin' Hooky
 1,174
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 4 pitches
Furlough Day
 131
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Fish and Chips
 176
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben…
 30
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 6 pitches
Rhett Wench
 23
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Creekafixion
 33
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Solid Gold
 133
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport 5 pitches
100 Proof
 35
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Golden Hammer
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
Macho Borracho
 20
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
Fool's Gold
 8
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport 5 pitches
Brennivin
 15
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Under the Influence
 10
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Creek Side »

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