Creek Side Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.741, -105.41 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Apr 29, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Creek Side may or may not be a good name for this wall. Nothing has been published that I have found and no name has been ascribed to the crag. Now, this seems odd inasmuch as Creek Side is largest expanse of continuous stone in Clear Creek - bigger than the Mission Wall by at least 100 feet and more continuous than The Little Eiger. The crag towers over 400 feet above the stream, faces depressingly due East, and [used to see] virtually no climbing. It is dark, cold, and windy most of the day except for a spell in the morning when it gets full sun. To make matters worse, the crag appears to be composed of fractured, friable, appalling stone. However, in the '60s, Layton Kor and colleagues punched up a mixed route that exited a large open-book dihedral at the 200 foot mark. This line has been repeated occasionally since then, and at least one fatality has been reported from the '70s. So, Creek Side is not without some history. Furthermore, at least two old lines have been climbed on the crag's West flank. One runs 50 or 60 feet to a pine tree/rap station. Another wanders the entire length of the west wall, but good luck trying to replicate the line - it has no obvious distinguishing characteristic. In 2002, a five pitch line was installed that punches up on the left side of the East-facing, open-book dihedral. The name of the game here is exposure, with a capital E. More importantly, the large confusion of irregularities has, in fact, turned up some terrific, bullet-proof stone. It appears that the time has come to see what this big puppy holds.
To access the west side, you climb a tree with a rope hanging down. You can clip into loops to sort of back you up. 25 feet up, you cross a tyrolean to the Guppy pod.
Note, if you wade the river, you must lead up to the belay pod to start. Plus, there isn't really a great place to switch shoes below the Guppy pod.
Binge-Side is the far left side containing:
A. Are There Bolts Up There?, 10- R, 3p, 400', gear.
B. Winterfest, 9+, 1p, 55', bolts.
C. Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush, 10+, 1p, 55', bolts.
D. 100 Proof, 12-, 1p, 65', bolts.
above C. Macho Borracho, 12, 1p, 140', bolts.
E. Breninivin, 12+, 2p, 150', gear & bolts.
...E1. Variation a, P1, 10, bolts.
...E2. Variation b, P1, 9+/10- bolts.
Creek-Side which is accessed by the high tyrol contains:
F. Shenanigans, 6-7, 1p, 95', bolts.
G. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p, gear & bolts.
H. Fish & Chips, 9+, 1p, 115', bolts.
I. Guppy, 8+, 1p, 120', bolts.
J. Clown Loach (temporary name)?, 8 or 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.
KI. Crackside Direct, 9+, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.
L. Crackside, 9+, 1p, 115', gear & bolts.
M. Fish Bowl, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
Bro-Side is the intimidating middle section containing:
N. Fool's Gold, 12+, 5p, bolts.
O. Labor Day, 10+, 2p, 120', bolts.
P. Psychotic Love, 10 R, 3p, 450', gear.
Q. Bro's Gold, 11, 2p, 185', gear & bolts.
R. Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben Memorial Route), 11, 5p, 420', bolts & gear.
S. Left of Corner, 9, 1p, 90', bolts.
T. Unknown Big Black Flake, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
U. Unknown, 90', 1p, bolts.
V. Little Sister, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.
Gold-Side is the area containing:
W. Black Gold, 7+, 5p, 400', bolts & gear?
X. Furlough Day, 9, 2-3p, TR now retrobolts.
Y1. Solid Gold, 11+, 5p, 450', bolts & gear.
Y2. First Spun Gold, 12-, 2p var, 450', bolts.
Y3. The Golden Hammer, 12-, 4p, 450', bolts.
Y4. Creekafixion, 11 PG-13, 2p, 135', bolts.
Y5. 1972 Kor/Bracksieck Crack to Dihedral, 8, 4p, 400', gear.
Y6. Playin' Hooky, 8-, 2p, 200', bolts.
Z. PTO, 8+, 1p, 80-100', now bolts.
AA. The Oyster Bar, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
BB. Creek Nation, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
CC. Project, 9+, 1p, 90', project.
DD. Creek Dance, 9-, 2p, 200', bolts.
EE. The Art of the Deal, 8?, 4p, 415', gear.
FF. Under the Influence, 13+, 1p, 65', bolts.
A. Get Stoked, 10, 75', 1p, bolts.
B. Don't Hate, 12+, 80', 1p, bolts.
C. Unknown Roof, 13?, 1p, bolts.
D. Try These Nachos, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Clouds In My Coffee, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Hateraid, 11-, 1p, 25', bolts.
G. Haters Gunna Hate, 11-, 1p, bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Creek Side
Days w Precip