Type: Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: Wright, Tarrant, 2006
Page Views: 3,413 total · 21/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Spun Gold is a variation to Solid Gold that splits off at the final two pitches. P1, P2, and P3 are shared with SG.

P4, 5.11c/d, splits right off the belay and quickly encounters bullet proof rock on a steep head wall at 5.11c/d. Exit the crack above at 5.11b and step left to a hanging belay.

P5, 5.12a/b, launches left from the belay and starts up a left facing corner. NB: after the fourth clip, drop back down and transition right into the open book dihedral directly above the belay. The original intent had been to launch directly into the open book, but reefing off a couple of flakes shut off this option. Moving through and above the dihedral picks up a bit of runout, but it's not a lot, just stay on the feet. Chase up the head wall on some killer incut slots to a final perplexing crux just below a small tree. The rap station is located above the ledge in order to keep your ropes running clean.

Spun Gold was freed in the Spring of 2006, but after some discussion I moved several bolts that altered the start of P5, and Mark Tarrant strung the entire line together for the FFA.

Location

Variation to Solid Gold.

Protection

A dozen draws and a couple of camming units will make things comfortable, as described for Solid Gold. The camming units are not strictly necessary, but without them a couple of spicy runouts will be encountered on P1. It is possible to link P1 and P2 if you carry 18 draws and something for the belay. P5 requires a couple of long slings for the second and third clips. To descend, rap back down the line. While it is possible to walk off, it is probably not worth the effort to do so. A 70 meter rope allows you skip the rap at the top of P4 and comfortize the lower raps. Otherwise, as described for Solid Gold, a 60 meter rope or double ropes are mandatory. P1 and P2 are right on at 100 feet, so tie the ends of your rope.

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