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Routes in Creek Side
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100 Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Are There Bolts Up There? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Art of the Deal, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben Memorial Route) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brennivin T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bro's Gold S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Christmas Spirits S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crackside T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crackside Direct (var.) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Creek Dance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creek Nation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creekafixion S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Eternal Now S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Fish and Chips S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fish Bowl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fool's Gold S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Furlough Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Hammer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Guppy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Labor Day S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Left of Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Sister S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Macho Borracho S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Oyster Bar, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Playin' Hooky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Project S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Psychotic Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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PTO S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rhett Wench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shenanigans S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Solid Gold T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spun Gold S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Under the Influence S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Winterfest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Your Brain on Drugs S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
| Type: | Sport, 185 ft (56 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dakota Walz & Brenton Kreiger June 2021 |
| Page Views: | 750 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Dakota from North Dakota on Jun 17, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Bro's Gold is highlighted by dynamic movement through huge roofs some 400 feet above the creek. Most of the rock is great, save for some near the start of pitch 1. If not for the easy climbing and multiple no hands rests that separate the fun cruxes, this could be a classic; however, if you love big moves and exposure but don't have a lot of stamina, you may love it.
Start by climbing the first two pitches of Big Bro's Watching or climb one of the easy slabs and traverse the fixed line left to the first two bolt anchor it's attached to (the fixed line is in okay shape as of 6.6.2021). The entire route stays dry during a rain save for the mantel under the final anchor.
P1: 5.11b, 115 feet, 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Climb up toward a left-scooping section of black rock and a high first bolt (consider extending it). A hand-size cam would protect the section before the first bolt, but it's only 5.5. From here, follow the bolts up and left to the first large roof (crux). Belay at the same pitch 3 stance belay as Big Bro's Watching (called the Kidney Killer, but it's not bad as far as exposed belays go).
P2: 5.11c, 70 feet, 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
From the belay, climb up to another roof, but escape right on very easy terrain. Set yourself up for the big dyno (crux) through a third roof, and pull over into the sit-down-and-have-a-picnic rest. Navigate the 4th and final roof with more big moves and a tricky mantel under the chains.
There could be another pitch that goes to the summit, but the rock is garbage and not worth anyone's time.
Descent
From the last anchor, I think it may be best to lower back down and belay your follower from the Kidney Killer stance. I belayed from the top anchor, and it was a bit awkward, and then we both had to do the steep rappel. From the Kidney Killer, do nearly a full rope rap to the ledge and fixed line. Take the fixed line right to the standard, easy, slab route raps.
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