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Routes in Creek Side

100 Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Are There Bolts Up There? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brennivin T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackside T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crackside Direct (var.) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creek Dance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creek Nation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creekafixion S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish and Chips S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fool's Gold S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Furlough Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Hammer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guppy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor Day S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left of Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Sister S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Macho Borracho S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oyster Bar, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
PTO S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playin' Hooky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Project S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Psychotic Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rhett Wench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shenanigans S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solid Gold T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spun Gold S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Under the Influence S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winterfest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,897 total, 282/month
Shared By: JP Griffith on Jun 6, 2014 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a short and easy pitch to the left of Playin' Hooky. This route traverses left from the start of Playin' Hooky to the first bolt, then go straight up through a mini-roof that is surprisingly easy.

Per Alan Prehmus: start on the 4 foot ledge overhanging the creek, 30 feet below and upstream of the start of Solid Gold/Playin' Hooky. It's the second route left of Solid Gold.

The first pitch climbs up and left, then follows some small left-facing corners. The roof can be finessed by using the left wall of the corner. Belay above the roof on 2 bolts.

The second pitch passes a second black overhang to climber's left. Move back right above the overhang. Continue up the bolt line. Staying left of the bolts is easier. For more challenge, climb to the right of the bolts until the last two bolts under the final bulge. Avoid the two huge boulders on the right here as they may not be attached. Pull through the bulge to the belay.

The third pitch has a friction move below the second bolt but is mostly easier. Belay on the grassy 2 x 6 foot ledge on another pair of bolts. Access to the upper pitches including Playin' Hooky is easy from here, but not bolted.

Per Alan Prehmus:
This 400’ route is ~35’ left of Solid Gold/Playin' Hooky for the first 4 pitches, then crosses over and is ~20’ to the right of the last pitch of Playin’ Hooky. It’s a well protected sport route with good belay ledges.

Start on the 4 foot ledge overhanging the creek, 30 feet below and upstream of the start of Solid Gold/Playin' Hooky. It's the second route left of Solid Gold.

The first pitch climbs up and left, then follows some small left-facing corners. The roof can be finessed (5.7) by using the left wall of the corner. Belay above the roof on 2 bolts.

The second pitch passes a second black overhang to climber's left. Move back right above the overhang. Continue up the bolt line. Staying left of the bolts is easier. For more challenge, climb to the right of the bolts until the last two bolts under the final bulge. Avoid the two huge boulders on the right here as they may not be attached. Pull through the bulge (5.7) to the belay.

The third pitch has a (5.7) friction move below the second bolt but is mostly easier. Belay on the grassy 2 x 6 foot ledge on another pair of bolts.

The fourth pitch is also easier. From the belay bolts, move left then up past 4 bolts to the big grassy ledge. Walk the ledge to the double bolts under the right side of the overhang. Pitches 3 & 4 can be combined.

The fifth pitch passes the right margin of the overhang, then steps left (5.7) onto & above it. Enjoy the exposure as you clip the bolts straight up to the skyline. This pitch is 35 meters long. Belay from the triple bolts 12 feet back from the edge. Rappel from these bolts is _not_ recommended."

Descent: Rappel the route an quicklinks at all stations.

Location

It is the second route left of Solid Gold/Playin' Hooky.

Protection

P1: 8ish bolts and 2 anchors.
P2: bolts?
P3: bolts?

Per Alan Prehmus: there are bolts all the way. Most pitches offer trad gear placement opportunities for those who want to practice placing gear while protected by bolts.
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
I've only done this route once. I was glad there were other climbers around me that day to help me figure out the line, since the routes are close together, and I haven't seen a good overview map showing how the routes relate to each other.

Things get a bit confusing for the last pitch. At the top of pitch 4, there is a double bolt anchor on the grassy ledge that is great for belaying your second up, but the bolt line leading straight up from there goes to the 5.12 headwall (Solid Gold maybe?). To stay at 5.7 (Black Gold) or 5.9 (Playin' Hooky), you need to walk to climber's right on the grassy ledge to another set of two bolts and belay the leader up pitch 5 from there. Black Gold is the rightmost bolt line on the "overhang" mentioned in the P5 description - which is a bit confusing because you have to cross over Playin' Hooky. In other words, the last pitch of Playin' Hooky will be on your left if you're on P5 of Black Gold, even though Playin' Hooky is to the right of Black Gold for the lower pitches.

At the topout, the 3-bolt anchor is set back from the edge among the boulders, in the rock at your feet. I anchored myself in, plopped myself down, and belayed off my harness to bring up my second. The Playin' Hooky anchors are off to climber's left about 30 feet (don't quote me on that distance), set about breast height into the wall over the face you just climbed. The walk over to the Playin' Hooky anchors is exposed at the edge but safe if you're careful.

Also, the rappel down Playin' Hooky is not super intuitive. We somehow ended up at the Furlough Day anchors for the last rap, which requires a 70m rope (which we didn't have). This is a rap descent that can go wrong and is probably not best for beginners. Once I figured out I didn't have enough rope to make it to the ground, I was very glad I was using a friction hitch back-up so that I could safely climb back up a bit and traverse over to a different belay station (the top of PTO, I believe - it was to the right of Playin' Hooky's hanging belay). May 29, 2017
Matt Bentley
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Matt Bentley   Boulder, CO
  5.7
This route was great. It wasn't a challenge, but it was fun to cruise through some easy climbing and link a bunch of pitches on nice rock in a great area. I would definitely recommend this route, and the lead isn't bad at all. It's super well-bolted (thanks Alan).

Does anyone know what route continues directly above the third pitch of Solid Gold? Instead of moving right to Playin' Hooky area, if you continue straight up, there's a couple lines of bolts next to a roped traverse (sketchy-looking) that don't seem to be on MP. There was a 3-bolt anchor at the start of this unknown route I started, and the route got a lot steeper and a lot dirtier. It looked old but had some huge chalk spots. This route must be popular, but I'm not sure which route it is! Any ideas? Apr 8, 2017
Mike Piwowarczyk  
  5.7+
Did Black Gold up to the ledges and jumped over to Playn' Hooky for the last pitch. Combined the first two pitches of Black Gold, and I would personally not recommend doing it again. The rope drag was the worst ever experienced. If a leader still decides to combine the first two pitches, a lot of extensions would need to be placed. The two pitches do go a fair way to climber's left from the start and over the two overhangs. Got confused on the ledges, there are actually two level of ledges half way up the route. Took us a little time to figure it out. PH slab was a fantastic climb with a pure friction move halfway up on not very grippy rock. Finish does go close to vertical for last two bolts. Overall superb climb close to town. Just a great time climbing! Oct 8, 2016
Alan Prehmus
littleton, co
  5.7
Alan Prehmus   littleton, co
  5.7
I replaced the weird bolt with epoxied wired stopper low on P1 with a 3/8" Powers Stud on 8/28. Aug 28, 2016
Arthur Wright
  5.6
Arthur Wright  
  5.6
Fun route. I would actually suggest the opposite of aikibujin for my favorite way to the top of this wall. I like to link pitches 1&2, then link pitches 3&4 onto the left, large ledge for SG/PH (not the to the right under the roof at the start of P5), and finish up the last pitch of Playin' Hooky. IMO, the first two pitches of Black Gold are just more fun than the first two of Playin' Hooky, but I prefer the final slab through the dihedral to the summit over the right last pitch of Black Gold. So many linkups and variations are possible and they are all fun, thanks to everyone who bolted these routes.

Also, if you have a 70, you can avoid the uncomfortable first hanging ledge of PH by rapping (I think twice?) to the top of Furlough Day instead and from there all the way to the ground (making 3 raps total). The ledge is much more comfortable. (well not actually completely touching the ground but like 5ft up from it with a super easy downclimb). Mar 16, 2016
First Track Jack
Colorado
 
First Track Jack   Colorado
 
Excellent route and great ride for some pitches up CCC. The upper pitch is bolted well, you just don't see them from below. Thank you Alan Prehmus for your hard work. Agree the combo of 1/2 and 3/4 is the way to go. We rapped down R1 of PH and then from ledge to P2 belay of Black Gold. From P2 to ground with 70 m meter will not reach the bolted pod, and rope retrieval would be tough without a slip into the creek. We went to P1 and rapped back to pod. Watch rope pull thru top crack.

For climbers who need cigarette brakes on the upper ledge, please take your butts with you next time, WTF?

Also thanks to Kevin Capps for all his work on the CCC book, it is a valuable resource for us all.... Jul 24, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.6
The best way to do this climb is to combine the 1st and 2nd pitches and the 3rd and 4th pitches. This speeds the day up a lot. Jun 13, 2015
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
Yes, Alan had not yet finished the route before the book came out. We had actually talked before he bolted it about the name and whether or not to bolt it. The first pitch has been around for years, nameless, until Alan decided to finish this route off and bring it all the way to the top of the wall. Nice work, Alan! Jun 4, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.6
This is my second comment, because I realized that this route is not described correctly in the newest guidebook written by Kevin Capps. In his book, he calls the route "The Waiting Room" and only shows the first pitch. The other 4 pitches are not shown. They may not have existed when he did the book, but he should have researched the name of the first pitch or called it "unknown". It is good that Mountain Project exists. Jun 4, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.6
This is a fun climb! The last pitch has 12 bolts, so bring enough draws. You would, of course, have enough if combining pitches, but I used all I had. I had extra but was not combining pitches. The last pitch is a little longer than 35m. I would say about 40m. It's nice that Alan installed a new first bolt, but it would be more useful if a little higher. It will keep you out of the water, though. Jun 4, 2015
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.8
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.8
Most of this route is average, but climbing around the overhang on the last pitch is really fun, a Gunk-like experience in CCC. If a climber has no problem leading 5.9 and just want to do one route at this area, I'd recommend climbing the first two pitches of Playin' Hooky (actually the first two pitches of Solid Gold, 5.9+) or Furlough Day (5.9), then link up to the last pitch of Black Gold (5.7) for a fun way to the top. Apr 12, 2015
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.6
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.6
OK route but overall pretty uninspiring. The second pitch is pretty fun, and the 5th pitch has one neat move. I gave it a 5.6 rating, but it might really be a 5.5. Helmets are a good idea as there are a lot of loose rocks still on this route. You need to move to Playin' Hooky for the rap as well. It isn't too scary walking over there, but be careful still. Nov 2, 2014
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.6
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.6
Good and rare multipitch sport route for beginning leaders. Quite a bit easier than Playin' Hooky and well protected. Can easily link pitches 1 & 2 (14 bolts plus top anchors) and pitches 3 & 4 (maybe 10 or 12 bolts). Top triple anchor is set way back (~15 ft) from top edge of route, so can't rap and pull rope from them. (Rap Playin' Hooky.) Oct 5, 2014
Alan Prehmus
littleton, co
  5.7
Alan Prehmus   littleton, co
  5.7
This route is second left of the first pitch of Solid Gold. The (currently undocumented?) route immediately left goes through the right side of the black roof. This one goes through the left side of the black roof at the right-facing corner. Aug 26, 2014
Alan Prehmus
littleton, co
  5.7
Alan Prehmus   littleton, co
  5.7
8/23/14 - added a bolt at low ledge that overhangs the creek so that the route can be started there safely. It also removes the need to traverse to reach the route: Just scramble down the short gully from Playin' Hooky. Aug 23, 2014