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Routes in Creek Side

100 Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Are There Bolts Up There? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brennivin T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackside T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crackside Direct (var.) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creek Dance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creek Nation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creekafixion S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish and Chips S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fool's Gold S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Furlough Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Hammer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guppy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor Day S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left of Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Sister S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Macho Borracho S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oyster Bar, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
PTO S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playin' Hooky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Project S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Psychotic Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rhett Wench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shenanigans S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solid Gold T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spun Gold S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Under the Influence S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winterfest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Eric Schmeer & Chip Nakagawa
Page Views: 3,221 total · 61/month
Shared By: AOSR on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1. Climb the first two pitches of Solid Gold in one long, fun slab pitch. Belay at the first large ledge stretching a single 70m or simul past two more bolts to a second large ledge, 5.8.

P2. Climb past the solid gold anchor, clip the first bolt of Spun Gold, and then traverse right on three bolts to the anchors on the face below the Golden Hammer roof, 5.8.

P3. Climb the face traversing left after a few moves on a slopey rail and then fire the roof through the crux to an amazing jug with a tricky mantle about 400 feet off the ground! 5.12-.

P4. Belay above the roof under a slightly overhanging arete. Climb fun, reachy big holds past a few bolts to a crux at the very top of the cliff band involving thin moves to a jug. After you gain the ledge, either move left to the Spun Gold anchor (recommended) or climb past one more bolt up and slightly right to another anchor. Cleaning is easy from either, 5.11.

Location

There are tons of rap options from the top. The easiest is to rap from the Spun Gold anchor to the anchor on the Playin' Hooky slab, then to the ledge, and then one more to the awkward hanging belay on the first slab pitch.

Protection

About 20 draws or so to lead the first two pitches as one. A long sling or two are nice for the last belay.

Per Monty: A 70m rope is required to rappel from the top of the route to the anchor in the middle of the slab on Playin Hooky. Watch the ends! It is possible to rap the route with a single 60m if you tram in and use intermediate anchors

Photos

Scott E
  5.12-
Scott E  
  5.12-
The nut on crux bolt with the chain draw is super loose. I hand tightened it, but the next party should bring a wrench up with them. Great route overall. A few bands of choosy rock and some big loose blocks but rad movement on the last two pitches. There is a 40 pound loose block that is ready to go about 5 feet above the belay on the roof pitch. This thing needs to be trundled but probably should be lowered considering the road and popular routes below. The mantel above the roof was easy compared to the mantel before the roof. Nov 16, 2017
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
Geoff, where did you rap from? A 60 is more than enough to get down if you don't skip any of the intermediate anchors. There's the anchors at the belay of the 5.12 pitch and also anchors lower and to the right on the Playin' Hooky slab.

The last pitch is not a gimme! Apr 11, 2016
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12-
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12-
Beware rappelling - a 60 m barely got us to the slab below but not near any anchor or bolt, so we had to traverse unprotected (not my fav). Also, seems like a hold may have broke on the last pitch? Really hard for 11d.... Apr 11, 2016
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
AOSR   Wherever we park!
 
Awesome, Kevin! I've seen someone quite a bit shorter than 6' pull the mantle, it's one of my favorite parts of the route! Thanks for the rating confirmation. That upper band is bullet - solid, solid gold indeed. Love this cliff! Feb 9, 2014
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12b
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12b
I jumped on this rig today. Excellent climbing pulling over the roof, and the last pitch is one of the best on the whole wall. I will say the mantel move before the roof is a bit reachy (not sure how a shorty would do it) and the rock is just a bit crumbly below the roof. I think the roof pitch is 12b and the last pitch is 11d. Great job, guys, nice addition! Nov 3, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
This is a fine addition to Creekside and shouldn't be missed! The rock under the roof on P3 is slightly crumbly but will clean up quickly with traffic. With the proper armory, it is possible to link P3 and 4 for an arm numbing lead. Just as good as Solid Gold but with a sweet roof and headwall! Oct 28, 2013

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