Type: Sport, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Eric Schmeer & Chip Nakagawa
Page Views: 3,830 total · 59/month
Shared By: AOSR on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

P1. Climb the first two pitches of Solid Gold in one long, fun slab pitch. Belay at the first large ledge stretching a single 70m or simul past two more bolts to a second large ledge, 5.8.

P2. Climb past the solid gold anchor, clip the first bolt of Spun Gold, and then traverse right on three bolts to the anchors on the face below the Golden Hammer roof, 5.8.

P3. Climb the face traversing left after a few moves on a slopey rail and then fire the roof through the crux to an amazing jug with a tricky mantle about 400 feet off the ground! 5.12-.

P4. Belay above the roof under a slightly overhanging arete. Climb fun, reachy big holds past a few bolts to a crux at the very top of the cliff band involving thin moves to a jug. After you gain the ledge, either move left to the Spun Gold anchor (recommended) or climb past one more bolt up and slightly right to another anchor. Cleaning is easy from either, 5.11.

Location

There are tons of rap options from the top. The easiest is to rap from the Spun Gold anchor to the anchor on the Playin' Hooky slab, then to the ledge, and then one more to the awkward hanging belay on the first slab pitch.

Protection

About 20 draws or so to lead the first two pitches as one. A long sling or two are nice for the last belay.

Per Monty: A 70m rope is required to rappel from the top of the route to the anchor in the middle of the slab on Playin Hooky. Watch the ends! It is possible to rap the route with a single 60m if you tram in and use intermediate anchors

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
This is a fine addition to Creekside and shouldn't be missed! The rock under the roof on P3 is slightly crumbly but will clean up quickly with traffic. With the proper armory, it is possible to link P3 and 4 for an arm numbing lead. Just as good as Solid Gold but with a sweet roof and headwall! Oct 28, 2013
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12b
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12b
I jumped on this rig today. Excellent climbing pulling over the roof, and the last pitch is one of the best on the whole wall. I will say the mantel move before the roof is a bit reachy (not sure how a shorty would do it) and the rock is just a bit crumbly below the roof. I think the roof pitch is 12b and the last pitch is 11d. Great job, guys, nice addition! Nov 3, 2013
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.12a
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.12a
Awesome, Kevin! I've seen someone quite a bit shorter than 6' pull the mantle, it's one of my favorite parts of the route! Thanks for the rating confirmation. That upper band is bullet - solid, solid gold indeed. Love this cliff! Feb 9, 2014
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12-
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12-
Beware rappelling - a 60 m barely got us to the slab below but not near any anchor or bolt, so we had to traverse unprotected (not my fav). Also, seems like a hold may have broke on the last pitch? Really hard for 11d.... Apr 11, 2016
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.12a
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.12a
Geoff, where did you rap from? A 60 is more than enough to get down if you don't skip any of the intermediate anchors. There's the anchors at the belay of the 5.12 pitch and also anchors lower and to the right on the Playin' Hooky slab.

The last pitch is not a gimme! Apr 11, 2016
Scott E
  5.12-
Scott E  
  5.12-
The nut on crux bolt with the chain draw is super loose. I hand tightened it, but the next party should bring a wrench up with them. Great route overall. A few bands of choosy rock and some big loose blocks but rad movement on the last two pitches. There is a 40 pound loose block that is ready to go about 5 feet above the belay on the roof pitch. This thing needs to be trundled but probably should be lowered considering the road and popular routes below. The mantel above the roof was easy compared to the mantel before the roof. Nov 16, 2017
Has anyone been on this recently? Is the crux bolt hanger and chain still intact?

Based on latest comment, it sounds like it was loose in the past. I suspect it’s now missing.

While on PH today, I found a hanger and chain (1 QL and 9 links) resting on a small ledge on the PH ramp, about 15 feet down and 10 feet left of the PH P3 anchor, pretty much directly below the GH traverse pitch north end belay. Very odd and relatively conspicuous. Seems like it can't have been laying there for much of a while now.

If true, I’m confused as to why it came loose at all, but I haven't been on route or even laid eyes on the bolt itself.

Bolt at downward angle? Heavy chain generating downward/outward pull on a nut with slack in the thread mesh? Water flow and freeze thaw cycles? All of the above? Feb 2, 2019 · Temporary Report
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.12a
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.12a
I'll have to drop by and check that out. I don't remember the chain being 9 links long, but it's been quite some time. I do remember thinking the chain was necessary when bolting it but thinking it wasn't after trying it a couple times. Might just need a hanger. Anyways, thanks to you both for the heads up. Feb 3, 2019
I just noticed the photo for this route and took a closer look. I'm 95% certain the chain I found is the one for the crux clip. No 'biner attached to the chain when I found it, though. Odd. Kinda looks and seems like it was a steel fixed biner.... Clipping thin chain eyelets while cruxing is tough!

mountainproject.com/photo/1…

The photo definitely looks like a hanger would be enough, provided an alpine/doubledogbone draw is used, but rope drag might be heinous with a standard 12cm draw? Chain seems like it was installed to mitigate drag/safety issues and also for a more convenient clip. So there's that going for it, which is nice.

Happy to get the chain to you somehow for replacement, if deemed necessary. Let me know what works. Though maybe a Climb Tech steel wire sling would mitigate chances of the issue reoccurring if it was the weight of the chain that helped gradually pull it off the bolt? Feb 4, 2019 · Lost & Found
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.12a
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.12a
Brent, any interest in fixing it up yourself? I'd be happy to buy the hardware, be it a new hanger or a permadraw of some kind, etc. It'll definitely take me a while to get over there and do it myself, and you seem quite active in climbing in general and CCC in particular. PM me if so. If not, no worries of course! I'll get to it eventually :) Feb 4, 2019
For sure! If it’s as simple as reattaching hardware to a bolt stud, I should be able to handle that in the next week or so. I’ll PM you some thoughts and questions.

I’ll make a note here once it’s either repaired, or needs a more involved effort. Feb 4, 2019