Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (11)
FA: D. Mabe / D. Montgomery
Page Views: 4,658 total · 42/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jan 24, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

What's On Tap

El Macho Borracho climbs out the Brennivin Roof left of the Brennivin route and above the Binge Side routes at Creekside. For full value, approach by indulging in 100 Proof (12a, 9 bolts) but traverse to the Brennivin belay ramp.

Climb above the belay on somewhat friable pegmatite and jugs to the massive, 30 foot overhang. Awesome, positive holds through the roof lead to the first midway crux. More jugs and terrific stone leave you with a wicked pump and inebriating exposure. Hang on tight until last-call, a sobering redpoint crux getting to the anchors.

Lower back to the belay. Your belayer will have to throw you some slack to pull you back in, as you fight the dizzying spins. Unclipping the last two draws on your way down will keep rope drag down.

Pro

Bring about 10 draws to climb 100 Proof . Macho has 8 bolts, currently fixed with draws. A 60m will work, but if you were so inclined to rap from the top of the route, you will need a 70m to get down.
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Big thanks to Dave Montgomery for not only contributing the fine 100 Proof route, but for help and support with this one. Jan 24, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12b/c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12b/c
Awesome, super fun route. It's a less scary version of the Brennivin Roof! Great stone and huge jugs keep this really entertaining. One note on the rating, I'm saying 12b/c, but its no walk in the park. It's actually harder than a few 12c's in the canyon (Great Escape or Ken Tanks) but overall easier than real 12c's like Sucking My Will to Live. Jan 24, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Thanks again for putting that video together, Dave. That was a lot of fun. Excellent work! and Kirsten for her filming during her crash course in jumaring! You're tough! Jan 25, 2010
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
Looks awesome! The ice approach looks nice as well - just how cold is it up there though this time of year? Jan 25, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
Nice work, Darren, congrats! This line looks awesome, can't wait to get on it. And I'm psyched to hear it gets some sun, we stopped by today and it seemed cooold! Jan 27, 2010
Fun video, guys!! That looks like one sweet line, Darren!!! It's up next for me I think!!! That thing looks so classic. Thanks for your hard work, man!! Jan 28, 2010
Johny A
Aurora . CO
Johny A   Aurora . CO
That was fun watching. I'll be on the red carpet for the next D.M. release! See ya. P.S.-good one on ya fer da tunes. Jan 29, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Linking this with 100 Proof makes for a king line of a pitch (145'?) and likely the longest single pitch of its grade in the canyon. Takes some thought to keep rope drag to a mininimum including shoulder length slings and smart back-cleaning. You cannot lower back to the ground with a 70m, but rather lower twice, tramming back to the belay. Enjoy. Apr 12, 2010
Harald Harb
Dumont
Harald Harb   Dumont
A project to be proud of, well done Darren. Now the work begins. Must do this route.
Oct. 30, 1011.
Started this project today, great ride, missed a few moves to complete a clean red point, but I'm going back Friday. After watching the video, I think I can figure out the roof crux. Oct 25, 2011
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
Mike Humphries   Arvada, CO
Climbed this route yesterday and found that both ends of our 70m rope easily reached the ground, probably with 20ft to spare, when using the lefthand 5.10 1st pitch of Brennivin to approach. Perhaps this won't work when approaching from 100 Proof (which is a bit further left), but if Macho Borracho is your goal, a direct approach should deposit you safely on the ground when using a 70m cord. What I can't comment on, as of yet, is the rope drag. Jul 23, 2012
Nolan Robertson
Durango, CO
  5.12c
Nolan Robertson   Durango, CO
  5.12c
Got on this today and found it to be pretty stout when thinking 12c, all of the difficulty comes from 2 moves, amidst a bunch of easy climbing (so steep that it feels pumpy). Felt harder than Pizza Dick, and Sucking My Will to Live, but maybe I just suck at reading beta though....

The setting makes this route a must do, it's an amazing feeling to be swinging around on jugs 120 feet over a river. Soooo much fun. Aug 24, 2016
Greg Miller
  5.12b/c
Greg Miller  
  5.12b/c
Great route! More intimidating from the ground. The movement and exposure are wild. This can feel harder if you don't find the good undercling at the second crux ;)
You'll most likely have this side of creek side all to yourself. Sep 24, 2016
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12b/c
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12b/c
Must do if you're a CCC climber. Position and movement are first rate. Sep 24, 2016