Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Pete Takeda, Eric Greene
Page Views: 8,261 total · 36/month
Shared By: Pete Takeda on Sep 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work Details

Description

Brennivin is a beautiful crack splitting a 30 foot roof on Creek Side crag - the buttress located on the North side of the river between the last tunnel before I-70 and The Dog House. The roof lies in the center of the crag at the river's bend. It is the most obvious feature on the buttress.

The approach pitch is 10d or 11a face climbing on solid, black-gray rock. The approach pitch had been bolted by unknown climbers prior to my ascent. The roof had one bolt located low down. The roof was aided and cleaned with nuts left in place as fixed pro. The crux - a right hand surf move to gain the crack - was protected by a tied off Lost Arrow. The roof is a giant jamming jug fest - the best first free ascent I've ever done. The belay needs replacing, as it causes some rope shredding.

Protection

First pitch is bolt protected 5.10d. Second is protected by one bolt, one piton, and several fixed nuts. A selection of one each #0.4, 0.5, 1, 2 Camalots are helpful.

Photos