Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Creek Side

100 Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Are There Bolts Up There? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brennivin T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackside T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crackside Direct (var.) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creek Dance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creek Nation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creekafixion S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish and Chips S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fool's Gold S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Furlough Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Hammer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guppy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor Day S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left of Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Sister S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Macho Borracho S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oyster Bar, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
PTO S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playin' Hooky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Project S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Psychotic Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rhett Wench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shenanigans S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solid Gold T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spun Gold S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Under the Influence S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winterfest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: D.Mabe, 3/05
Page Views: 22,897 total, 150/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on May 17, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


169 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Guppy is the right of two routes that start from the belay pod above the small pine on the south-facing Creek Side Wall, east side of tunnel 6. Approach by tyrol from cottonwood tree (see comments under Creek Side Area description).

Chase several bolts up to a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral. Pull right around the dihedral and continue up past a small roof, and finish up the black rounded arete and the anchors. Lower or rap exactly 35m back to the pod. A 60m rope will certainly not make it. If you are careful when you pull the rope, it won't get wet... the tyrol line and pine tree will catch most of it.

Guppy is a long fun route with superb stone, huge positive holds, and consistent climbing!

Protection

13 protection bolts. 2-bolt lowering anchor. A 70m rope or 2 shorter ropes are needed for the rappel.
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
This absolutely has my money for the best single pitch of 5.8 I've ever done. Approach, length, variety, exposure. All classic. Oct 24, 2016
Andrew Christian  
  5.8
Excellent route, best single pitch 5.8 I've ever been a part of. Shade after 4pm, even in summer.

Your rope must be at least 70m! Pulling the rope to the far side of the tyrol may help it from winding up in the water. Use lockers on the tyrol to prevent all 3 of the ropes getting caught in one gate. Jul 19, 2016
William Thiry
Lakewood, CO
  5.8
William Thiry   Lakewood, CO
  5.8
One of the best 5.8s you'll climb anywhere. Sep 4, 2014
Don Ferris
Eldorado Springs
 
Don Ferris   Eldorado Springs
 
Great route. I'd say it's an even 31 meters from the belay pod. Put your belay device at the end of your PAS and you'll make it into the belay pod with a 60m, just pay attention. Oct 12, 2013
Sylvia
  5.8-
Sylvia  
  5.8-
Love this route especially the 'approach' across the creek. This is beautiful on a sunny day though it is a very long route for a one pitch. Jun 2, 2012
Chip Loomis
  5.8+
Chip Loomis  
  5.8+
70 meter rope is a must! Mar 12, 2012
Jonathan Reeves
Golden, Colorado
 
Jonathan Reeves   Golden, Colorado
 
Hands down one of the best 5.8 climbs I have ever seen. Jul 6, 2011
Craig Quincy
  5.8+
Craig Quincy  
  5.8+
Brilliant route on perfect rock. Apr 3, 2011
Buff Johnson  
 
Fun line, best to bring a 70. Oct 25, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
This is how moderate sport routes should be. Great rock, fun moves, excellent equipping. Well worth the effort no matter what grade you climb! Jun 14, 2008
Kaner
Eagle
Kaner   Eagle
60m rope IS NOT LONG ENOUGH to get you back to the pod. Be careful out there kiddos.
Sketchily yours,
Ryan Aug 28, 2007
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.8-
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.8-
That would be a good idea and certainly one I would never have thought of!

Truth be told this is an excellent route, I highly recommend it to any one that rock climbs! However it could have been an absolutely stellar trad line. Should the bolts be pulled? NO WAY!! My reason for the comment is that on a crag with 2 previously established trad lines, why bolt one that would have been a classic trad line? Just food for thought for future route developers. Jul 6, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
J. my suggestion is that you take your rack across the tyro and do the route on gear. Just because there are bolts there doesn't mean you have to clip them. While you are over there give Crackside a go, it is a trad route to the right of Guppy. Trad is Rad! Jul 5, 2007
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.8-
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.8-
A very fun route. I'd give it 4 stars if it was done on gear...which it easily could have been. But it's CCC. What else is new? Jul 4, 2007
Kim
  5.9
Kim  
  5.9
This is another great route! Absolutely no harder than 5.9 and well worth the trip across the tyrol. Good times! May 31, 2005
Jerome Stiller
Golden CO
  5.9-
Jerome Stiller   Golden CO
  5.9-
Yup, what Darren said. Great route, fun climbing all the way, I thought fairly easy for a .9 but not over-bolted, some spicey almost run-outs on the easier sections. Bolts are brand new and placed with either loving care or extreme obsessiveness - take your pick! May 18, 2005