Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: D.Mabe, 3/05
Page Views: 26,143 total · 157/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on May 17, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

202 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details


Guppy is the right of two routes that start from the belay pod above the small pine on the south-facing Creek Side Wall, east side of tunnel 6. Approach by tyrol from cottonwood tree (see comments under Creek Side Area description).

Chase several bolts up to a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral. Pull right around the dihedral and continue up past a small roof, and finish up the black rounded arete and the anchors. Lower or rap exactly 35m back to the pod. A 60m rope will certainly not make it. If you are careful when you pull the rope, it won't get wet... the tyrol line and pine tree will catch most of it.

Guppy is a long fun route with superb stone, huge positive holds, and consistent climbing!


13 protection bolts. 2-bolt lowering anchor. A 70m rope or 2 shorter ropes are needed for the rappel.
Jerome Stiller
Golden CO
Jerome Stiller   Golden CO
Yup, what Darren said. Great route, fun climbing all the way, I thought fairly easy for a .9 but not over-bolted, some spicey almost run-outs on the easier sections. Bolts are brand new and placed with either loving care or extreme obsessiveness - take your pick! May 18, 2005
This is another great route! Absolutely no harder than 5.9 and well worth the trip across the tyrol. Good times! May 31, 2005
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
A very fun route. I'd give it 4 stars if it was done on gear...which it easily could have been. But it's CCC. What else is new? Jul 4, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
J. my suggestion is that you take your rack across the tyro and do the route on gear. Just because there are bolts there doesn't mean you have to clip them. While you are over there give Crackside a go, it is a trad route to the right of Guppy. Trad is Rad! Jul 5, 2007
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
That would be a good idea and certainly one I would never have thought of!

Truth be told this is an excellent route, I highly recommend it to any one that rock climbs! However it could have been an absolutely stellar trad line. Should the bolts be pulled? NO WAY!! My reason for the comment is that on a crag with 2 previously established trad lines, why bolt one that would have been a classic trad line? Just food for thought for future route developers. Jul 6, 2007
Kaner   Eagle
60m rope IS NOT LONG ENOUGH to get you back to the pod. Be careful out there kiddos.
Sketchily yours,
Ryan Aug 28, 2007
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
This is how moderate sport routes should be. Great rock, fun moves, excellent equipping. Well worth the effort no matter what grade you climb! Jun 14, 2008
Buff Johnson  
Fun line, best to bring a 70. Oct 25, 2009
Craig Quincy
Louisville, CO
Craig Quincy   Louisville, CO
Brilliant route on perfect rock. Apr 3, 2011
Jonathan Reeves
Golden, Colorado
Jonathan Reeves   Golden, Colorado
Hands down one of the best 5.8 climbs I have ever seen. Jul 6, 2011
Chip Loomis
Chip Loomis  
70 meter rope is a must! Mar 12, 2012
Love this route especially the 'approach' across the creek. This is beautiful on a sunny day though it is a very long route for a one pitch. Jun 2, 2012
Don Ferris III
Eldorado Springs
Don Ferris III   Eldorado Springs
Great route. I'd say it's an even 31 meters from the belay pod. Put your belay device at the end of your PAS and you'll make it into the belay pod with a 60m, just pay attention. Oct 12, 2013
William Thiry
Las Vegas
William Thiry   Las Vegas
One of the best 5.8s you'll climb anywhere. Sep 4, 2014
Andrew Christian  
Excellent route, best single pitch 5.8 I've ever been a part of. Shade after 4pm, even in summer.

Your rope must be at least 70m! Pulling the rope to the far side of the tyrol may help it from winding up in the water. Use lockers on the tyrol to prevent all 3 of the ropes getting caught in one gate. Jul 19, 2016
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
This absolutely has my money for the best single pitch of 5.8 I've ever done. Approach, length, variety, exposure. All classic. Oct 24, 2016
Scott Chico
Morrison CO
Scott Chico   Morrison CO
My wife and I started with Guppy then moved to Fish and Chips yesterday. Both climbs will leave us with wonderful, lasting memories. The exposure and views were amazing!

Can someone help me understand why there are so many ropes with loops hanging down into the cave? We used a cordelette equalized to the three anchor bolts which worked really well to allow us to partially hang out of the cave in order to see the climber. Mostly we used the looped ropes to hang gear...is that the intended purpose?

Here's what I learned about the Tyrol crossing: the top line seems to be static, so when I clipped my wife to that with a long sling and a shorter sling to the lower two ropes (dynamic), she wasn't able to unclip once she got to the cave. The two lower ropes sagged way down, but the top rope kept her too high to unclip (couldn't get her feet solid on the floor of the cave). I had to come over to help her unweight the top line so we could unclip. Lesson learned. To return, we just rappelled into the stream and cleaned our rope! Sep 28, 2018
Dale Haas removed two of the three pieces of cord in the Guppy pod. He left the green one which is an etrier with steps to help getting on and off the Tyrolean. Oct 2, 2018