Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 10-19-09
Page Views: 6,032 total · 54/month
Shared By: Monty on Oct 19, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

The Skinny!

This is another new addition to the left side of Creekside, or as I like to call it the "binge side."

Start up on solid black rock on crisp edges and crimpers passing 3 bolts (low 10). Rest at a stance clip another bolt make a couple tenuous mid 11 moves to a good flat crimp, clip. Adjust your hands, smear your feet and deadpoint/ dyno to a sloper. Make a tough clip from the sloper, and a few more 11ish moves and finish on fun 5.10 climbing to the anchor of Rumpleminze.

  • From this anchor, you can either lower or continue up and right through a brilliant, slab traverse (11-) to the belay at the base of the Brennivin roof.

This is essentially a harder, and more direct version of Rumpleminze. It is convenient to climb Rumpleminze and hang the draws on 100 Proof on your way down. This is also a more classic way to access the roof routes above.

Protection

8 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.
There is a 1 bolt extension to the anchor for Brennivin routes.

Where you at?

This route is located in between Rumpleminze and the regular start to Brennivin. Approach via Shenanigans, or wade across the creek in low water.

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Yeeeeee haw!!! Great work rekindling development in this area! Oct 20, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.12a
Luke Childers  
  5.12a
Nice... love me some new develpment!! Can't wait to check it out!! Routes look so good. Thanks for all your hard work!!! Nov 23, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Excellent, excellent line at Binge Side. Continuous climbing and 12a seems about dead on, I think it clocks in a bit harder than Rhett Wench (11+). Techy crux. Stays after you until the very end. Great stone that will brush up nicely. Well done, Dave, good eye! This will easily get 3 stars in the revision of my book. Dec 20, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.12a
Luke Childers  
  5.12a
Just climbed this line today and I must say... it's quite good!! Crimps and dynamic movement make this route a fine line. Everyone should give this one a go!!! Nice work Dave.. thanks for your efforts, man!!! Mar 26, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
I have found that since the bolt at the end of the crux is difficult for me to clip, having poor feet for a clipping stance, climbing slightly past you can clip it at your waist. The fall here is still clean, however, if your belayer is careful. Apr 12, 2010
Clint Hager
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.11d
Clint Hager   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.11d
Wow, what a great route! This was my first 5.12 redpoint. Woohoo! I felt like the hardest part of the climb was clipping while holding onto the slopy dyno hold. I definitely recommend this route to anyone trying to break into the 12 range. You can get some really good rests in this route, right before the crux and after it as well. Also, using the Tyrol to get to the route just adds to the fun! May 28, 2013
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12a
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12a
Fun route with solid rock.
BETA ALERT
There is no reason to clip off the sloper, nor to climb above - a few feet left of the sloper is a great sidepull. Either match hands on the sloper, or crimp up and right, then go left hand to the sidepull and get the feet up for an easy clip. Aug 4, 2014