Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Mabe and Stiller, P2: Mabe / Bernal, 4/05
Page Views: 4,827 total · 26/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on May 17, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Ker-plunk!

Rhett Wench starts to the left of the tyrol belay pod on the south facing wall at Creek Side. The big-ass Brennivin Roof is to the left. Approach by tyrol (see area description comments under Creek Side), and then yard on the fixed(!) handline 15' left to the belay 'scoop'.

Mr. Rhett Wench climbs the left black slab, grey shield, capped by two roofs.

P1. Cruise past 6 clips (5.5) to 3 bolt belay anchor on a ramp.

P2. Lieback up the crack and mantle to a quick rest stance (.11-). Continue up the steep and devious face sequence (crux), traversing right to the handrail, then back left on the handrail, brief slab moves and up to the roofs. Finger traverse out the right side of the first roof (.11-), blind-clip a bolt, and pull over to another rest below the bigger overhang. Clip the bolt in the overhang, and enjoy the gymnastic movement to the anchors (.10). 12 bolts. Lower 90' back to the belay. Rap P1, and reverse your way back to the pod, and tyrol.

Very cool and technical climb, great exposure.

Protection

P1: 6 bolts, P2: 12 bolts, rap anchors. Bring some runners to alleviate rope drag on P2. I equipped both pitches on lead, with mix of free/aid on rope-solo for P2.

Photos