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Routes in Creek Side

100 Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Are There Bolts Up There? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brennivin T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackside T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crackside Direct (var.) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creek Dance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creek Nation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creekafixion S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish and Chips S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fool's Gold S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Furlough Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Hammer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guppy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor Day S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left of Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Sister S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Macho Borracho S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oyster Bar, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
PTO S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playin' Hooky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Project S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Psychotic Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rhett Wench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shenanigans S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solid Gold T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spun Gold S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Under the Influence S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winterfest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Mabe and Stiller, P2: Mabe / Bernal, 4/05
Page Views: 3,864 total, 25/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on May 17, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Ker-plunk!

Rhett Wench starts to the left of the tyrol belay pod on the south facing wall at Creek Side. The big-ass Brennivin Roof is to the left. Approach by tyrol (see area description comments under Creek Side), and then yard on the fixed(!) handline 15' left to the belay 'scoop'.

Mr. Rhett Wench climbs the left black slab, grey shield, capped by two roofs.

P1. Cruise past 6 clips (5.5) to 3 bolt belay anchor on a ramp.

P2. Lieback up the crack and mantle to a quick rest stance (.11-). Continue up the steep and devious face sequence (crux), traversing right to the handrail, then back left on the handrail, brief slab moves and up to the roofs. Finger traverse out the right side of the first roof (.11-), blind-clip a bolt, and pull over to another rest below the bigger overhang. Clip the bolt in the overhang, and enjoy the gymnastic movement to the anchors (.10). 12 bolts. Lower 90' back to the belay. Rap P1, and reverse your way back to the pod, and tyrol.

Very cool and technical climb, great exposure.

Protection

P1: 6 bolts, P2: 12 bolts, rap anchors. Bring some runners to alleviate rope drag on P2. I equipped both pitches on lead, with mix of free/aid on rope-solo for P2.
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
You might be talking about the last bolt over the final roof!? I drilled that sucker off a teetering hook and left heelhook, lol. May 28, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
Nice job drilling on lead! I did skip a bolt or two (in the roofs if I remember correctly), mostly from being pumped and not seeing the easy clipping stance (I need to get better at hanging from an arm and a leg and clipping) May 28, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
That is correct. Since I bolted this on lead, I didn't know where to go until I got there, but that is the way I went too when I stepped out of my aiders. That bit of route finding gives the crux some character. Glad you liked it. May 18, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
I found going right made life easier also. I wondered if that was the intended way. If it is, the 2 finger pocket that's all chalked up is a bit deceiving.
Great route, the roofs were fun! I have to come back and get it clean. May 18, 2009
Mark Ferguson
  5.11c
Mark Ferguson  
  5.11c
Great route. Darren, Nice work putting this climb up. The 2 roofs are really great. Regarding the face sequence that you say is the 11+ crux, I found that if you climb just right of the bolt it feels a bit easier. I tried to climb straight above the bolt in 90+ degree weather and greased of the micro holds. I then went a foot or 2 right and found better holds. Anyways, nice work. Jul 21, 2005