Avg: 2.9 from 7 votes
|Type:||Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||D. Montgomery, 7-18-11|
|Page Views:||3,887 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Monty on Jul 18, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
The route starts on Solid Gold but then climbs on new territory for 4 pitches with an amazing finish on an overhanging arete. The route can be linked into 3 pitches with some simul-climbing and good rope management. The last pitch is a beautiful overhanging arete with great position and would be a classic at any crag, but is guarded by some 2 star climbing that you'll forget about as soon as you are on the arete. Bring your desire for some adventure (even though it's a sport route) and have fun.
P1. 5.8, 200 feet:
Link the first 2 pitches of Solid Gold.
P2. 5.0, 160 feet, 7 bolts:
From the low anchor, traverse left accross a ledge system. Pass the anchor for Big Bros and continue on for another 80 feet. (Be mindful of loose rock.)
(It is possible to link this and the first pitch with about 115 feet of simul-climbing.)
P3. 5.11-, 60 feet, 6 bolts:
Pull a low roof (crux) into a band with some bad rock that's easy to avoid, then lieback up some good gold stone to a nice belay ledge.
P4. 5.11-, 90 feet, 11 bolts:
Step right off the belay, then traverse back left (10+), pull a small overhang, then rest on a ledge under a roof. Traverse cool blocks right across the roof to a jug, pull the roof to the left (crux) and tip toe through another short rotten band. Pull another small roof on good stone and continue up great stone to a ledge below the loft. Either belay out left at the rap anchor for a nice view of your partner, or climb up the short crack to the right up to the 3 bolt anchor in the Loft.
(This pitch requires at least 4 slings. Also the 3rd and 4th pitches can be linked, but I wouldn't do this until you are familiar with the route.)
P5. 5.12+, 55 feet, 8 bolts.... The Reward!
Well you made it hear, now it's time to take in some exposures on one of the coolest aretes I've ever climbed. It's gymnastic, the holds are perfect, and it's really exposed!
Hand traverse left across an incut rail. Make a long hard move to gain the arete and a marginal rest. Slap up the arete to a foot cutting toss to an edge (crux). Snag a jug and another couple of 5.11 moves drop you at the anchor. Awesome.
- Make sure to get a good swing (exciting) as you lower down, so you can get back into the ledge right below the loft. If you can't make it in, your belayer can throw you a loop of slack and pull you in. Also, the best way to clean your draws is to follow the pitch, since you could take a dangerous swing otherwise.
This will sound way more complicated than it is, but it's really easy if you pay attention.
Just below the loft to the left is a 2 bolt anchor. The best way to get both climbers here is to have one climber lead then lower off the arete and swing in to this anchor. TR belay your partner up the arete, then have them lower and swing in to the anchor as well (if draws are fixed, they don't have to climb at all. Just simply lower them). Pull the rope off the arete, and rap.
R1 80 feet: Trend climber's left and clip one rope to a fixed biner to the left of the 4th pitch, this will keep your rope from traveling over any dangerous edges and drop you off right at the next anchor.
R2 60 feet: Trend climber's right, and clip the fixed biner on the 3 bolt of the 3rd pitch. Same thing, this will keep you from swinging over any dangerous edges and puts you right on the anchor again.
- From here, pull the rope and lead back across the ledge system to Solid Gold.
R3 Rap 100 feet down P2 of Solid Gold.
R4 Rap 100 feet to the ground.
Not so bad, right?