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100 Proof

5.12a, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 39 votes
FA: D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 10-19-09
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Creek Side
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The Skinny!

This is another new addition to the left side of Creekside, or as I like to call it the "binge side."

Start up on solid black rock on crisp edges and crimpers passing 3 bolts (low 10). Rest at a stance clip another bolt make a couple tenuous mid 11 moves to a good flat crimp, clip. Adjust your hands, smear your feet and deadpoint/ dyno to a sloper. Make a tough clip from the sloper, and a few more 11ish moves and finish on fun 5.10 climbing to the anchor of Rumpleminze.

*From this anchor, you can either lower or continue up and right through a brilliant, slab traverse (11-) to the belay at the base of the Brennivin roof.

This is essentially a harder, and more direct version of Rumpleminze. It is convenient to climb Rumpleminze and hang the draws on 100 Proof on your way down. This is also a more classic way to access the roof routes above.

Protection

8 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks (per Sam Bloch).

There is a 1 bolt extension to the anchor for Brennivin routes.

Where you at?

This route is located in between Rumpleminze and the regular start to Brennivin. Approach via Shenanigans, or wade across the creek in low water.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

In the steep crux<br>
-photo by Darren Mabe.
[Hide Photo] In the steep crux -photo by Darren Mabe.
Another view of the extension of 100 Proof to the base of the Brennivin roof routes<br>
-photo by Darren Mabe.
[Hide Photo] Another view of the extension of 100 Proof to the base of the Brennivin roof routes -photo by Darren Mabe.
Skipping the anchor of 100 proof, and slabing it up to the base of the Roof routes. <br>
-photo by Darren Mabe.
[Hide Photo] Skipping the anchor of 100 proof, and slabing it up to the base of the Roof routes. -photo by Darren Mabe.
Darren setting up for the crux throw of 100 Proof.<br>
[Hide Photo] Darren setting up for the crux throw of 100 Proof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Darren Mabe
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Yeeeeee haw!!! Great work rekindling development in this area! Oct 20, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Nice... love me some new develpment!! Can't wait to check it out!! Routes look so good. Thanks for all your hard work!!! Nov 23, 2009
Darren Mabe
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Excellent, excellent line at Binge Side. Continuous climbing and 12a seems about dead on, I think it clocks in a bit harder than Rhett Wench (11+). Techy crux. Stays after you until the very end. Great stone that will brush up nicely. Well done, Dave, good eye! Dec 20, 2009
Luke Childers
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this line today and I must say... it's quite good!! Crimps and dynamic movement make this route a fine line. Everyone should give this one a go!!! Nice work Dave.. thanks for your efforts, man!!! Mar 26, 2010
Darren Mabe
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I have found that since the bolt at the end of the crux is difficult for me to clip, having poor feet for a clipping stance, climbing slightly past you can clip it at your waist. The fall here is still clean, however, if your belayer is careful. Apr 12, 2010
Clint Hager
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Wow, what a great route! This was my first 5.12 redpoint. Woohoo! I felt like the hardest part of the climb was clipping while holding onto the slopy dyno hold. I definitely recommend this route to anyone trying to break into the 12 range. You can get some really good rests in this route, right before the crux and after it as well. Also, using the Tyrol to get to the route just adds to the fun! May 28, 2013
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Fun route with solid rock.
BETA ALERT
There is no reason to clip off the sloper, nor to climb above - a few feet left of the sloper is a great sidepull. Either match hands on the sloper, or crimp up and right, then go left hand to the sidepull and get the feet up for an easy clip. Aug 4, 2014
Lane Mathis
Denver, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I really like this one. The rock felt sticky in the 50s with a nice breeze. It had sun before 9:30am today and would be a different route if it was baking.

I clipped off the sloper, but it wouldn't be too much more to clip at your waist off the next down pulling hold. Apr 9, 2024