Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben Memorial Route)
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 450 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | D. Mabe / D. Lawrence, Aug. 2009 |
Page Views: | 7,554 total · 66/month |
Shared By: | Darren Mabe on Sep 9, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Project Work Resumes Nov. 13 Following Summer Shutdown
On Tuesday, Nov. 13, crews will resume work on this project, starting with rockfall mitigation on US 6 from mile points 260 to 272. Remaining work, anticipated to be completed in April 2019, includes:
scaling rock; removing scaled rock; and installing rock reinforcement, rock anchors, mesh anchors, and 160,000 squat feet of wire mesh.
codot.gov/projects/us-6-cle…
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
On Tuesday, Nov. 13, crews will resume work on this project, starting with rockfall mitigation on US 6 from mile points 260 to 272. Remaining work, anticipated to be completed in April 2019, includes:
scaling rock; removing scaled rock; and installing rock reinforcement, rock anchors, mesh anchors, and 160,000 squat feet of wire mesh.
codot.gov/projects/us-6-cle…
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Background
A month ago, the community experienced the tragic loss of Craig Luebben. This route is a personal memorial for our friend, husband, daddy, partner, and local hero. I scoped this route several years ago, wondering how to access the overhanging stem corner at the top. During my guidebook research, I spotted some evidence of an ascent on the first pitch. Over beers one night, for some reason, Craig and I were discussing this wall. To my surprise, the ratty anchors I saw in the first hundred feet were his from a few years prior. He also had the vision of going all the way up but back-burnered the idea due to bigger and better things. Once I took an interest, however, he sparked, wanting to complete it with me, ground-up. Unfortunately we never got around to it...
This route and the style in which we established it, was inspired by Craig, and his seize-the-moment attitudeÂ… because someday may never come.... As far as the route name goes, well, I will just say that there were several special occasions we felt Craig was climbing with us on our FA. Thanks, Craig, for your help....
This route and the style in which we established it, was inspired by Craig, and his seize-the-moment attitudeÂ… because someday may never come.... As far as the route name goes, well, I will just say that there were several special occasions we felt Craig was climbing with us on our FA. Thanks, Craig, for your help....
Getting There
Big Bro Watching (BBW) starts left and around the corner of Solid Gold, identified by a green lichened slab. Park in front of the Doghouse, west side of Tunnel 5 (though you can see the route across the creek at the creekside parking). Approach as you would for Solid Gold. Once at the base, continue with the 4th class Perverse Traverse over the water. Follow the line of least resistance and watch for loose rock. After some exposed moves, a brushy ledge ramp continues to the slabby base of the route and comfortable staging ledge with single belay bolt, or belay in the gully at the base of the bolted route at a two bolt belay.
Route Description
FA and FFA pics are here and here.
P1. (5.9-, 100'). Scramble up to the start of the unknown bolted route. Continue up and left of the first two bolts (you donÂ’t need them, you can get in gear), to a fixed pin and move left into a blocky, left-facing corner. Climb through the corner, onto the face and then back left into the left-facing flakes. Laybacking and positive edges lead you to a bolt when the crack disappears. Classic! Mantle to a two bolt hanging belay.
P2. (5.9, 80'). Delicate face moves lead above the belay to a bolt, and up to a crack weakness in an overlap. Crank over (5.9ish) and cruise up blocky terrain (5.5-5.6) to a great belay ledge. Definitely reasonable to link P1 and P2.
P3. (5.11-, 115'). Head for a left-facing, cube-like dihedral. An awkward pull onto a ramp and bolt follows. Continue up the finger crack, steepening to a sequential crux that is well-protected. At the top of the crack, traverse over loose broken ledges past two bolts (5.6) and up to a wide crack splitting a bulge. Thuggish moves (5.10, bolt) and crumbly rock! Once over the bulge, hand traverse 30 feet left, smearing the crumbly ramp-of-sorts to an exposed hanging belay (aka the Kidney Killer). Good pro can be found for this traverse, and your follower will be grateful.
P4. (5.11, 75'). Step up and left off the belay. Surprisingly tricky and spooky, but you will soon get a bolt. (EDIT: a #3.5 Camalot can protect the starting moves). Incredible position! Continue traversing the ledge left (ignore the directional-rap-bolt above your head) to a powerful right-angling finger and thin hand crack through the bulge, (loose block out left!) (5.10+) . Two bolts protect the thin, steep face 'skidmarks' crux (5.11 slightly height-dependent) with sharp but strangely solid edges. You may have to brush off some bird poo. Continue up easier terrain to the Loft. Belay left on a comfortable ledge and love-seat.
P5. (5.10+, 50'). "The Loft". There are lot of moves packed into this little pitch. This follows an overhanging, stem corner to overhung jamming and traversing. Pro is mostly thin and somewhat tricky to place mid-pitch. Fantastic stemming movement, especially if your legs are long and/or flexible! Keep moving through the slimy hand crack in the roof (#3 cam) and pull around to the most airy belay perch in the canyon.
P6. (5.4, 25'). Top out, enjoy the top, and walk to Solid Gold raps.
P1. (5.9-, 100'). Scramble up to the start of the unknown bolted route. Continue up and left of the first two bolts (you donÂ’t need them, you can get in gear), to a fixed pin and move left into a blocky, left-facing corner. Climb through the corner, onto the face and then back left into the left-facing flakes. Laybacking and positive edges lead you to a bolt when the crack disappears. Classic! Mantle to a two bolt hanging belay.
P2. (5.9, 80'). Delicate face moves lead above the belay to a bolt, and up to a crack weakness in an overlap. Crank over (5.9ish) and cruise up blocky terrain (5.5-5.6) to a great belay ledge. Definitely reasonable to link P1 and P2.
P3. (5.11-, 115'). Head for a left-facing, cube-like dihedral. An awkward pull onto a ramp and bolt follows. Continue up the finger crack, steepening to a sequential crux that is well-protected. At the top of the crack, traverse over loose broken ledges past two bolts (5.6) and up to a wide crack splitting a bulge. Thuggish moves (5.10, bolt) and crumbly rock! Once over the bulge, hand traverse 30 feet left, smearing the crumbly ramp-of-sorts to an exposed hanging belay (aka the Kidney Killer). Good pro can be found for this traverse, and your follower will be grateful.
P4. (5.11, 75'). Step up and left off the belay. Surprisingly tricky and spooky, but you will soon get a bolt. (EDIT: a #3.5 Camalot can protect the starting moves). Incredible position! Continue traversing the ledge left (ignore the directional-rap-bolt above your head) to a powerful right-angling finger and thin hand crack through the bulge, (loose block out left!) (5.10+) . Two bolts protect the thin, steep face 'skidmarks' crux (5.11 slightly height-dependent) with sharp but strangely solid edges. You may have to brush off some bird poo. Continue up easier terrain to the Loft. Belay left on a comfortable ledge and love-seat.
P5. (5.10+, 50'). "The Loft". There are lot of moves packed into this little pitch. This follows an overhanging, stem corner to overhung jamming and traversing. Pro is mostly thin and somewhat tricky to place mid-pitch. Fantastic stemming movement, especially if your legs are long and/or flexible! Keep moving through the slimy hand crack in the roof (#3 cam) and pull around to the most airy belay perch in the canyon.
P6. (5.4, 25'). Top out, enjoy the top, and walk to Solid Gold raps.
Descent
(RECOMMENDED) top out, walk to the NE, and rap Solid Gold. Best to have previous knowledge of the SG rap location (they are right underneath a lone bonsai). Advantage of this is you don't have to reverse the perverse-traverse, but you would have had to stash your stuff at the base of SG.
For retreat or to rap the route, the rappels are a bit complex and borderline acrobatic. Pay attention or you could have an epic situation. A 70m rope is necessary.
For retreat or to rap the route, the rappels are a bit complex and borderline acrobatic. Pay attention or you could have an epic situation. A 70m rope is necessary.
Protection
A multi-pitch adventure mindset, helmet, 70m rope, rack up to #3 Camalot including small wires, selection of stoppers, a few extras in the small to medium cams. Offset nuts and offset Aliens/MCs are helpful. There are a couple of spots I used a #3.5 Camalot, but it is not necessary. All belays from bolts except for the top.
Flagstaff, AZ
denver, co
Raises hand....that was me. I too envisioned a route going up and through those roofs....that bolt was the belay for my first pitch. I abandoned the project....
Anyway this route is now at the top of my list...anyone want to go with me soon?
Good stuff, boys!
josh Sep 10, 2009
Bailey
Second - Re the rating.... It seems that exposure adds a couple of letter grades to me. (I don't think that's the case for Darren....) It sure felt to be on the + side of 11 (but still 11). Looking forward to hearing what others think.... (I have left my rating at just 5.11 until I can go back up and check it out again....) Sep 15, 2009
Flagstaff, AZ
And as Derek noted, I can see the overall difficulty rating being anywhere from 10c to 11b. Subsequent ascents will nail that down. Sep 21, 2009
P1 5.9-
P2 5.9
P3 5.10c/d
There's a slight advantage if you're taller and there's a
fixed nut that takes away a pumpy gear placement that helps a lot
P4 5.11a/b
The roof before the crux is a little dirty, but the moves are really good and really exposed probably 10d. The actual crux is straight forward if you're tall and tricky but no tougher if your not (mantel).
P5 5.10c/d
This pitch is really cool great moves, and there's another fixed nut that makes the gear easy and staightforward and the finishing hand/fist traverse is awesome, too.
Overall, great route. It will be 4 stars if it cleans up.
The descent is no problem and was set up very well. Just follow the directions. Wear a helmet and climb carefully. Sep 26, 2009
Flagstaff, AZ
Ha! I did indeed come prepared with a Big bro on the FA in case the overhanging crack dihedral looming on P5 turned out to be wide. I judged from the ground it to be at least hands but imagined it to be wider. Would it not have been fitting if there were some heinous overhanging OW to cap it off!? But we were pleased to discover once we got there that the crack doesn't get much wider than #3 Camalot. But nonetheless, our Big Bro's presence was there for our ascent, and I would like to think of him grinning along with us about how each pitch manifested.
-darren Sep 29, 2009
Bailey
Mostly just like hearing how you think it is a great route. As I'm sure you know, that matters way more than ratings! Thanks Sep 30, 2009
Pine, Colorado
Pine, Colorado
Boulder, CO
Thanks for a great addition to the canyon! Even better that it's a tribute to Craig! Nice work guys.
Approached from the tyrol and thought that it's pretty chill in approach shoes, especially if you leave the pack at the car. Maybe not a great idea if wet but fine when it's dry. Apr 18, 2010
Golden, CO
Don't expect a casual day out in CCC if your hoping on this one. It feels more like a wild Black Canyon Adventure. Props for finding a line up this intimidating wall, especially in the style you did it.
Cheers to Craig Jun 19, 2010
Parker, CO
Moving off the belay on pitch 4 is no big deal and you can plug in a big cam (C4 #4). The real business is a bit higher.
The traverse over to the Solid Gold rap anchors is easy. That descent is very straightforward.
It's hard to compare this route to other CCC offerings, so I'm going to say 5.11 and a soft R, but it felt pretty burly. Jun 25, 2010
Flagstaff,AZ
1) Bring a 3.5 or 4 Camalot-size piece for the move off the belay at the start of pitch 4. It was also nice to reach back from the belay at the end of pitch 5 and place this piece for the second (the leader just wants to keep moving at that point!).
2) Rap Solid Gold. The top-out is simple, and it's actually quite cool to stand on the rim of Clear Creek Canyon. The SG anchors are easy to find under the tiny pine near the tip of the next point to the east on the rim. We placed a piece and long sling to protect the reach down to the anchors, but once there, it's five totally straightforward single-rope raps to the ground.
If you like adventure climbing and can climb 5.11, do this route. Mar 20, 2011
Flagstaff, AZ
Louisville
Route is well protected and not really any seriously loose rock (did knock something off p2). Has a great feeling of adventure, despite being right off the road and bolts where you want them! Mar 17, 2013
Colorado Springs
Still a fixed nut on P2 or P3 (depending on how you link it) which also felt like 5.11a but we'll say 5.10 and call it good. :) No fixed nut on the last pitch which was kind of physical and you had to work for your gear more then normal. Jun 22, 2013
Boulder, CO