Avg: 3.1 from 25 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||D. Mabe / D. Lawrence, Aug. 2009|
|Page Views:||9,402 total · 64/month|
|Shared By:||Wiled Horse on Sep 9, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
This route and the style in which we established it, was inspired by Craig, and his seize-the-moment attitude because someday may never come.... As far as the route name goes, well, I will just say that there were several special occasions we felt Craig was climbing with us on our FA. Thanks, Craig, for your help....
P1. (5.9-, 100'). Scramble up to the start of the unknown bolted route. Continue up and left of the first two bolts (you dont need them, you can get in gear), to a fixed pin and move left into a blocky, left-facing corner. Climb through the corner, onto the face and then back left into the left-facing flakes. Laybacking and positive edges lead you to a bolt when the crack disappears. Classic! Mantle to a two bolt hanging belay.
P2. (5.9, 80'). Delicate face moves lead above the belay to a bolt, and up to a crack weakness in an overlap. Crank over (5.9ish) and cruise up blocky terrain (5.5-5.6) to a great belay ledge. Definitely reasonable to link P1 and P2.
P3. (5.11-, 115'). Head for a left-facing, cube-like dihedral. An awkward pull onto a ramp and bolt follows. Continue up the finger crack, steepening to a sequential crux that is well-protected. At the top of the crack, traverse over loose broken ledges past two bolts (5.6) and up to a wide crack splitting a bulge. Thuggish moves (5.10, bolt) and crumbly rock! Once over the bulge, hand traverse 30 feet left, smearing the crumbly ramp-of-sorts to an exposed hanging belay (aka the Kidney Killer). Good pro can be found for this traverse, and your follower will be grateful.
P4. (5.11, 75'). Step up and left off the belay. Surprisingly tricky, but you will soon get a bolt. (EDIT: a #3.5 Camalot can protect the starting moves). Incredible position! Continue traversing the ledge left (ignore the directional-rap-bolt above your head) to a powerful right-angling finger and thin hand crack through the bulge, (loose block out left!) (5.10+) . Two bolts protect the thin, steep face 'skidmarks' crux (5.11 slightly height-dependent) with sharp but strangely solid edges. You may have to brush off some bird poo. Continue up easier terrain to the Loft. Belay left on a comfortable ledge and love-seat.
P5. (5.10+, 50'). "The Loft". There are lot of moves packed into this little pitch. This follows an overhanging, stem corner to overhung jamming and traversing. Pro is mostly thin and somewhat tricky to place mid-pitch. Fantastic stemming movement, especially if your legs are long and/or flexible! Keep moving through the slimy hand crack in the roof (#3 cam) and pull around to the most airy belay perch in the canyon.
P6. (5.4, 25'). Top out, enjoy, and walk to Solid Gold raps.
For retreat or to rap the route, the rappels are a bit complex and borderline acrobatic. Pay attention or you could have an epic situation. A 70m rope is necessary.