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Routes in Creek Side

100 Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Are There Bolts Up There? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brennivin T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackside T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crackside Direct (var.) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creek Dance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creek Nation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creekafixion S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish and Chips S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fool's Gold S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Furlough Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Hammer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guppy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor Day S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left of Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Sister S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Macho Borracho S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oyster Bar, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
PTO S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playin' Hooky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Project S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Psychotic Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rhett Wench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shenanigans S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solid Gold T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spun Gold S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Under the Influence S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winterfest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Kevin Capps, 2013
Page Views: 2,350 total, 65/month
Shared By: Pete Krzanowsky on Dec 21, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The new Clear Creek Canyon guide lists this as a two pitch climb, but I have just done the first pitch. It is a long pitch, requiring all of a 70m rope for lowering or rappelling. The route starts just to the left of the first pitch of "Solid Gold".

Start the route by doing a leftward-ascending traverse, clipping 3 to 4 bolts over progressively steeper terrain. The crux is a small roof around bolt 4/5. For a shorter climber, you have to work your feet up a bit and use a mix of handholds to reach up and get the clip. Continue to work your feet up, and pull over the roof with a high step. The rest of the route is 5.7/5.8 climbing. There is a two bolt anchor from which you can be lowered or rappel.

Location

This route is just to the left of the first pitch of "Solid Gold". Reaching the first bolt involves a bit of an ascending traverse to the left over 5.6ish terrain. The pitch ends at a two bolt anchor. I set an anchor, my partner lowered me, and we came up just a bit short with a 70m rope, resulting in about 5 feet of easy downclimbing. On rappel, he had the same result, a short downclimb. So this pitch takes all of a 70m rope.

Protection

10 quickdraws and additional draws or other options for the anchor.

Photos

Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
 
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
 
Super nasty wasp nest hidden inside a smallish crack at the top of the first pitch (Oct. 1). Oct 2, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
Good climb. The roof is more strenuous than tricky. I am of average height and found the holds easily, but it did take effort to pull over. Apr 4, 2016
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9
Good route, despite being 5.7 except for one 5.9 roof move. Second pitch is a half-pitch before joining Solid Gold P2 a few bolts below the large P2 ledge. So you can rap down SG in two raps w a 60m rope. Oct 20, 2015
Brian Bourquin
Denver, CO
Brian Bourquin   Denver, CO
All "New" routes in Colorado should have an asterisk that reads, "*FA probably Layton Kor." Sep 6, 2015
Proving that no one had previously climbed something is extremely difficult. Do you get out the DNA kit and test for Layton's sweat residue from 1973 or earlier? Or Leo's from some years back? Do you look for 41-year-old chalk marks left by climbers who didn't use chalk? Or chalk marks that might (or might not) have been left some years ago and exposed to years of meteoric precipitation? Just because someone didn't bother to publicize their recreational outing for the day doesn't mean that whatever route you claim hasn't been climbed.

I've climbed routes from which I removed no lichen or loose rock. Whoever might have climbed my way afterward might have assumed that no one had climbed there before. After seeing Richard Wright and Steve Sangdahl install lots of bolt on routes that my partners and I climbed many years earlier (and that were not chossy or dirty in the first place), I decided to start posting on MP. Feb 25, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
FWIW, I think I climbed this some years back. I recall the 5.9 roof bit. I recall there being some things to be careful with as there were rafters going past below to avoid with cleaning that we'd ordinarily do. Vaguely, it seemed like it had been climbed previously. Beyond that, the memory blurs....

Addendum: as I recall, the first time I was on this wall, I recall seeing scattered pitons and such thinking, I bet Layton was here. Funny, he was, and he probably never named these various lines. Man, he was amazing! Feb 24, 2015
Pete Krzanowsky
Evergreen, CO
 
Pete Krzanowsky   Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin...I agree completely. Pulling that roof is a blast. The first time I wasn't sure what I'd find...then I found the hand hold that got me over it. Doing this route and Playin' Hooky makes for a fun few hours in CCC! Feb 23, 2015
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
I'm sure a lot of people have meandered up the slab before bolts. Pulling the roof is what makes this route special and also challenging. Feb 22, 2015
In 1973, I watched Layton Kor lead what is probably this route. He and his partner climbed so quickly that I suspect he had done it before. He was generally fast though, so it could have been the FA. I led Anne Leibold up it in 1978. No bolts were there. Feb 22, 2015