Type: Sport, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches
FA: equipped by Kevin Capps, 2013
Page Views: 5,638 total · 50/month
Shared By: Pete Krzanowsky on Dec 21, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The new Clear Creek Canyon guide lists this as a two pitch climb, but I have just done the first pitch. It is a long pitch, requiring all of a 70m rope for lowering or rappelling. The route starts just to the left of the first pitch of "Solid Gold".

Start the route by doing a leftward-ascending traverse, clipping 3 to 4 bolts over progressively steeper terrain. The crux is a small roof around bolt 4/5. For a shorter climber, you have to work your feet up a bit and use a mix of handholds to reach up and get the clip. Continue to work your feet up, and pull over the roof with a high step. The rest of the route is 5.7/5.8 climbing. There is a two bolt anchor from which you can be lowered or rappel. It is 125' to this point.

Per rob bauer: this has been a 2 pitch route since at least 2015. I think there's 5 more bolts to the big ledge with the 4 sets of anchors. The 250' is a guess.

Location Suggest change

This route is just to the left of the first pitch of "Solid Gold". Reaching the first bolt involves a bit of an ascending traverse to the left over 5.6ish terrain. The pitch ends at a two bolt anchor. I set an anchor, my partner lowered me, and we came up just a bit short with a 70m rope, resulting in about 5 feet of easy downclimbing. On rappel, he had the same result, a short downclimb. So this pitch takes all of a 70m rope.

Protection Suggest change

10 quickdraws and additional draws or other options for the anchor.

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