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Routes in Creek Side

100 Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Are There Bolts Up There? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brennivin T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackside T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crackside Direct (var.) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creek Dance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creek Nation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creekafixion S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish and Chips S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fool's Gold S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Furlough Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Hammer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guppy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor Day S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left of Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Sister S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Macho Borracho S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oyster Bar, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
PTO S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playin' Hooky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Project S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Psychotic Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rhett Wench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shenanigans S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solid Gold T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spun Gold S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Under the Influence S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winterfest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1 Equiped by D. Montgomery, FA, D. Montgomery & S. Benedict, 8-28-10, P2 Equiped & FA by Eric Schmeer and Bruno Haché
Page Views: 4,960 total, 56/month
Shared By: Monty on Aug 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Sooo, you know that route Rosy Crucifixion.... Well, the CCC has got its own version now!

This is one of the most unique pitches I've climbed in CCC, guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

Link the first 2 pitches of Solid Gold to the large belay ledge.

Climb 50 feet of the 3rd pitch of SG. Bust right to start up Playin' Hooky. Belay on the ledge with the intermediate rap station in the middle of the PH slab.


Creekafixion P1 5.11, 80 feet. The Money Pitch! Start from the rap station in the middle of the PH slab. Climb up the slab for 4-5 bolts then angle up and left to 2 bolts leading up to the giant roof on the left side of the slab. Stem the dihederal and begin tip-toeing out over the massive roof. A sequence of underclings, crimps and tenuous smearing past 3 more bolts will deposit you at a 2 bolt belay. Wild!

  • DON'T use a Guide or Reverso in auto-block mode. If your second falls, you will have a very hard time unlocking the device.

From here, you can either rap back to the midway belay on Playin' Hooky, or top out via two different 5.11 options.

It is possible to link both pitches but not recomended since you will not be able to hear or see your partner during the crux traverse.

P2 5.11-, 60 feet. The original finish was to step right off the belay, mantle on to a sloping ledge, and follow a crumbly corner feature to the top, but with the recent addition of Golden Hammer, you now can take that routes fourth pitch to the top for a much more classic finish in the 11+ range.

Descent: Several rap options exist. The best option is from the anchor on top of Spun Gold to the Playin' Hooky anchor in the middle of the slab, then down Solid gold from there. Or top out completely and walk over to the Solid Gold raps, or 4th class scramble down to the raps for Playin' Hooky.

Location

Top right side of Creekside. In between Spun Gold and Playin' Hooky.

Protection

Bolts. 10 draws and 2 runners should do.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
There is a good undercling by your thigh that makes the clip a lot easier (and closer) ;) Oct 8, 2017
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11d
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11d
One of the bolts on the traverse may be a little hard to clip for shorties. With my 5'7" wingspan, I was on two small crimps and really bad smears. Maybe I was missing something, but clipping that bolt was definitely the crux for me. Oct 8, 2017
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
Fantastic position! You're a couple hundred feet above Clear Creek tip-toeing on the lip of a very large roof. I thought the bolts were well placed, and so I never felt scared (which I usually do on hard traverses).

I'd recommed bringing a couple of shoulder length slings for the slab to minimize rope drag. Also, there's a large, loose boulder at the very top of the slab that's right in the climbing line. If you're not careful, you could pull this mini-fridge sized block right onto yourself or an unfortunate driver below. Apr 30, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
For Creekafixion, you tip toe traverse over the roof following the bolts. You might be confusing Creekafixion with the route to the left that pulls a roof. It will all become very obvious once you are up there.
Cheers Sep 25, 2011
Are you supposed to pull the roof on this route or are you supposed to traverse over the roof? I have seen some pics with the route mapped out over the roof, but descriptions say to pull the roof. What is it?! Sep 23, 2011
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
  5.11
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
  5.11
What an awesome route. A classic of exposure. Sep 1, 2010
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11
Soooo good. A CCC must do. Funny how similar it actually is in exposure and moves to its namesake in Eldo! Sep 1, 2010