Type: Sport, 135 ft (41 m), 2 pitches
FA: P1 Equiped by D. Montgomery, FA, D. Montgomery & S. Benedict, 8-28-10, P2 Equiped & FA by Eric Schmeer and Bruno Haché
Page Views: 6,503 total · 53/month
Shared By: Monty on Aug 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Sooo, you know that route Rosy Crucifixion.... Well, the CCC has got its own version now!

This is one of the most unique pitches I've climbed in CCC, guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

Link the first 2 pitches of Solid Gold to the large belay ledge.

Climb 50 feet of the 3rd pitch of SG. Bust right to start up Playin' Hooky. Belay on the ledge with the intermediate rap station in the middle of the PH slab.


Creekafixion P1 5.11, 80 feet. The Money Pitch! Start from the rap station in the middle of the PH slab. Climb up the slab for 4-5 bolts then angle up and left to 2 bolts leading up to the giant roof on the left side of the slab. Stem the dihederal and begin tip-toeing out over the massive roof. A sequence of underclings, crimps and tenuous smearing past 3 more bolts will deposit you at a 2 bolt belay. Wild!

  • DON'T use a Guide or Reverso in auto-block mode. If your second falls, you will have a very hard time unlocking the device.

From here, you can either rap back to the midway belay on Playin' Hooky, or top out via two different 5.11 options.

It is possible to link both pitches but not recomended since you will not be able to hear or see your partner during the crux traverse.

P2 5.11-, 60 feet. The original finish was to step right off the belay, mantle on to a sloping ledge, and follow a crumbly corner feature to the top, but with the recent addition of Golden Hammer, you now can take that routes fourth pitch to the top for a much more classic finish in the 11+ range.

Descent: Several rap options exist. The best option is from the anchor on top of Spun Gold to the Playin' Hooky anchor in the middle of the slab, then down Solid gold from there. Or top out completely and walk over to the Solid Gold raps, or 4th class scramble down to the raps for Playin' Hooky.

Location

Top right side of Creekside. In between Spun Gold and Playin' Hooky.

Protection

Bolts. 10 draws and 2 runners should do.

Photos