Type: Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: P1-3, George Bracksieck & Charly Marchand, 1973?, pre-bolts, D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 3-18-10
Page Views: 144,173 total · 874/month
Shared By: Monty on Mar 18, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work Details


Finally! A mega moderate that graces the slabs of Creekside.

This is a long 1 pitch route that steers clear of the hard last 2 pitches of Solid Gold and stays consistent with the difficulty of the first 2 beautiful pitches of that route. With that said, I want to thank Richard, Mark, and Koko for their excellent route Solid Gold. Their efforts on [[105758065] are the only reason this route was even possible. So we thank you.

Start with the first 2 pitches of Solid Gold. I recommend linking both for a full value, 200 foot rope-stretcher. This either takes a lot of draws, or some discipline to skip a few bolts through easier terrain (make sure your belayer is tied in and ready to go, and you belay from the lower of 2 anchors on the ledge).

P1: (5.9,bolts, 100 feet) this is a 100 foot pitch that goes on glue-in bolts and finishes at a double bolt anchor. The rock is solid all the way and kicks out a couple of fun spots.

P2: (5.8, bolts, 100 feet) is also 100 foot long and is largely quite easy with a couple of 5.8 sections, one right off the belay. It finishes on a ledge at a double bolt belay stance. However, for descent purposes, a higher rap anchor was installed that keeps the rope running clean and off the ledge. This stance is ten feet higher than the belay stance.

P3: (5.7, 2 bolts, 40 feet) this is essentially a pitch to move your anchor slightly higher before stepping over to Playin' Hooky. Belay on the large grassy ledge at a 2 bolt anchor.

P4 (5.8, 14 bolts, 150 feet) time for some exposure! Step right from the belay, clip the first bolt, dodge a bush, and embark on 140 feet of fun climbing with a steep exposed finale. It is possible to walk to the summit from the top of this pitch.

*There is an intermediate rap station to the right of the climbing line - this allows you to get down with a 60m rope; a 70m rope will not get you back to the ledge with out this anchor!*

Descent: 4 near-100 foot raps with a 60m will get you back down.

R1: from the top of Playin' Hooky, rap 90 feet to the intermediate anchor in the slab.

R2: knot your ends. Rap 100 feet down to the top of the 2nd pitch of Solid Gold.

R3: knot your ends. Rap 100 feet down to the hanging belay at the top of pitch 1.

R4: rap 100 feet down to your packs!


This was the furthest right bolted route on Creek Side. Now there are more routes to the right. Begin with Solid Gold first 2 pitches, move the belay, and then step right on to a slab.

GPS coordinates for Playin' Hooky & Solid Gold are: 39.741468, -105.409588.

The best approach is to park on the west side of tunnel 5 in the same spot as the Dog House/ Cat Slab. From the pullout, walk downstream towards the tunnel, hop the guard rail on the north side of the road, and follow a trail near the river to the base.



Bolts, bolts, and more bolts!

60m, a couple slings, and 14 draws should do.
Helmets are certainly recommended.