Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: P1-3, George Bracksieck & Charly Marchand, 1973?, pre-bolts, D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 3-18-10
Page Views: 94,988 total · 843/month
Shared By: Monty on Mar 18, 2010 with improvements by Andrew . and 1 other
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

Finally! A mega moderate that graces the slabs of Creekside.

This is a long 1 pitch route that steers clear of the hard last 2 pitches of Solid Gold, and stays consistent with the difficulty of the first 2 beautiful pitches of that route. With that said I want to thank Richard, Mark, and Koko for their excellent route Solid Gold. Their efforts on solid gold are the only reason this route was even possible. So we Thank You.

Start with the first 2 pitches of Solid Gold. I recommend linking both for a full value 200 foot rope-stretcher. This either takes a lot of draws, or some discipline to skip a few bolts through easier terrain (Make sure your belayer is tied in and ready to go, and you belay from the lower of 2 anchors on the ledge.)

P1: (5.9, bolts, 100 feet) this is a 100 foot pitch that goes on bolts and finishes at a double bolt anchor. The rock is solid all the way and kicks out a couple of fun spots.

P2: (5.8, bolts, 100 feet) is also 100 foot long and is largely quite easy with a couple of 5.8 sections, one right off the belay. It finishes on a ledge at a double bolt belay stance. However, for descent purposes, a higher rap anchor was installed that keeps the rope running clean and off the ledge. This stance is ten feet higher than the belay stance.

P3: (5.7, 2 bolts, 40 feet) this is essentially a pitch to move your anchor slightly higher before stepping over to Playin' Hooky. Belay on the large grassy ledge at a 2 bolt anchor.

P4 (5.8, 14 bolts, 150 feet) time for some exposure! Step right from the belay, clip the first bolt, dodge a bush, and embark on 140 feet of fun climbing with a steep exposed finale. It is possible to walk to the summit from the top of this pitch.

  • There is an intermediate rap station to the right of the climbing line, this allows you to get down with a 60m rope; a 70m rope will not get you back to the ledge with out this anchor!*

Descent: 4 near-100 foot raps with a 60m will get you back down.

R1: from the top of Playin' Hooky, rap 90 feet to the intermediate anchor in the slab.

R2: knot your ends. Rap 100 feet down to the top of the 2nd pitch of Solid Gold.

R3: knot your ends. Rap 100 feet down to the hanging belay at the top of pitch 1.

R4: rap 100 feet down to your packs!

Location

This was the furthest right bolted route on Creek Side. Now there are more routes to the right. Begin with Solid Gold first 2 pitches, move the belay, and then step right on to a slab.

GPS coordinates for Playin' Hooky & Solid Gold are: 39.741468, -105.409588.

The best approach is to park on the west side of tunnel 5 in the same spot as the Dog House/ Cat Slab. rom the pullout, walk downstream towards the tunnel, hop the guard rail on the north side of the road, and follow a trail near the river to the base.

DO NOT USE THE TYROLEAN TO APPROACH THIS CLIMB!

Protection

Bolts, bolts, and more bolts!

60m, a couple slings, and 14 draws should do.
Helmets are certainly recommended.

Photos