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Routes in Creek Side

100 Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Are There Bolts Up There? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brennivin T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackside T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crackside Direct (var.) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creek Dance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creek Nation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creekafixion S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fish Bowl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fish and Chips S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fool's Gold S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Furlough Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Hammer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guppy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor Day S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left of Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Sister S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Macho Borracho S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Oyster Bar, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
PTO S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playin' Hooky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Project S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Psychotic Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rhett Wench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shenanigans S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Solid Gold T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spun Gold S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Under the Influence S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Winterfest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1-3, George Bracksieck & Charly Marchand, 1973?, pre-bolts, D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 3-18-10
Page Views: 79,536 total · 808/month
Shared By: Monty on Mar 18, 2010 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Finally! A mega moderate that graces the slabs of Creekside.

This is a long 1 pitch route that steers clear of the hard last 2 pitches of Solid Gold, and stays consistent with the difficulty of the first 2 beautiful pitches of that route. With that said I want to thank Richard, Mark, and Koko for their excellent route Solid Gold. Their efforts on solid gold are the only reason this route was even possible. So we Thank You.

Start with the first 2 pitches of Solid Gold. I recommend linking both for a full value 200 foot rope-stretcher. This either takes a lot of draws, or some discipline to skip a few bolts through easier terrain (Make sure your belayer is tied in and ready to go, and you belay from the lower of 2 anchors on the ledge.)

P1: (5.9, bolts, 100 feet) this is a 100 foot pitch that goes on bolts and finishes at a double bolt anchor. The rock is solid all the way and kicks out a couple of fun spots.

P2: (5.8, bolts, 100 feet) is also 100 foot long and is largely quite easy with a couple of 5.8 sections, one right off the belay. It finishes on a ledge at a double bolt belay stance. However, for descent purposes, a higher rap anchor was installed that keeps the rope running clean and off the ledge. This stance is ten feet higher than the belay stance.

P3: (5.7, 2 bolts, 40 feet) this is essentially a pitch to move your anchor slightly higher before stepping over to Playin' Hooky. Belay on the large grassy ledge at a 2 bolt anchor.

P4 (5.8, 14 bolts, 150 feet) time for some exposure! Step right from the belay, clip the first bolt, dodge a bush, and embark on 140 feet of fun climbing with a steep exposed finale. It is possible to walk to the summit from the top of this pitch.

  • There is an intermediate rap station to the right of the climbing line, this allows you to get down with a 60m rope; a 70m rope will not get you back to the ledge with out this anchor!*

Descent: 4 near-100 foot raps with a 60m will get you back down.

R1: from the top of Playin' Hooky, rap 90 feet to the intermediate anchor in the slab.

R2: knot your ends. Rap 100 feet down to the top of the 2nd pitch of Solid Gold.

R3: knot your ends. Rap 100 feet down to the hanging belay at the top of pitch 1.

R4: rap 100 feet down to your packs!


This was the furthest right bolted route on Creek Side. Now there are more routes to the right. Begin with Solid Gold first 2 pitches, move the belay, and then step right on to a slab.

GPS coordinates for Playin' Hooky & Solid Gold are: 39.741468, -105.409588.

The best approach is to park on the west side of tunnel 5 in the same spot as the Dog House/ Cat Slab. rom the pullout, walk downstream towards the tunnel, hop the guard rail on the north side of the road, and follow a trail near the river to the base.



Bolts, bolts, and more bolts!

60m, a couple slings, and 14 draws should do.
Helmets are certainly recommended.


Well-protected, super fun. Many awesome sections, especially the finish. It is the bombdig. Did this March 30th, the Tics were already out of control. Mar 30, 2010
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Glad you liked it. Wading the creek may dramatically decrease your chances of tick encounters. Permetherin also helps a lot.
- cheers Mar 31, 2010
Mike Morin
Glen, NH
Mike Morin   Glen, NH
This route is the perfect moderate finish to the first 3 pitches. Well done, had a blast on it today. A 4 star pitch for sure. Mar 31, 2010
Adam Ingram
Golden, CO
Adam Ingram   Golden, CO
I enjoyed the climb, but didn't think any of the moves were of 5.8 difficulty. Overall, the route felt like mostly 5.6 with a few 5.7 moves mixed in. Great easy/moderate multi-pitch sport route. The view from the top is awesome; I loved hanging out at the very top of the crag. The last 10-15 feet of the last pitch was really fun (the dihedral crack looking thing just to the right of the last few moves looks way more fun though), but this route is all about the first pitch (which is technically the first 2 pitches) Apr 7, 2010
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Adam, the dihederal could be climbed on gear. My original idea was to go into the dihederal, but upon closer inspection, I didn't want to finish the route that way because of some really nasty blocks at the top of the dihederal. I agree that the pitch is soft for 5.8, but I think the overall effort of the route is 5.8 when you take into account the first 2 pitches of SG. Thanks for the feed back!
-cheers Apr 7, 2010
Dr. Ellis D. Funnythoughts
Evergreen, Co
Dr. Ellis D. Funnythoughts   Evergreen, Co
Super fun route!! Really good warm up for the day. The ticks suck ass though. I would seriously consider wading the creek to avoid those bloodsucking assholes. Definitely combine first two pitches if you can cause the hanging belay isn't comfortable. Keep a heads up for loose rocks, too! Apr 10, 2010
Tom R
Denver, CO
Tom R   Denver, CO
I think this is going to see a lot of traffic. A small line formed today. Apr 11, 2010
ChrisG George
ChrisG George   Westminster
Totally mellow route, doable in approach shoes. Small line equals 6 dudes. Yeah gonna be lots a traffic on this one. This route gets a high "redneck yellin' moon factor". A yeeeehhhaaaawww and two white loaves for the gapers drivin' by. Oh, an' not to mention the old man pullin' over to take a piss, not even noticing us there. Hah! Apr 12, 2010
Brett Bauer
Brett Bauer  
Wade, while you can we did and I still got 2 ticks could only imagine how many on the hike?

With a 70m rope, it was 3 pitches.

We did pitch 1 then pitch 2 past the upper belay 3 bolts up to what might be the intermittent rappel anchor? Then up to the top! (make sure you climb the last vert directly in line with the bolts for the spice (5.8?) of the route ...left totally down grades it but wouldn't take away from the climb any!

Awesome route...just good fun climbing with an alpine feel! Apr 14, 2010
Andrew Bradberry
Golden, CO
Andrew Bradberry   Golden, CO
Thanks for the route, Monty! This one is sure to be a CCC classic. It's cleaning up nicely, all the holds I used were good. Are you bolting those routes across the dihedral (climber's right of Solid Gold)? Those look pretty stout! Apr 16, 2010
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Thanks for the kind words. This route took all most no cleaning at all, not typical in CCC. The routes to the right of Solid Gold are First Spun Gold 12a/b and the other route is a closed project in progress by another CCC local, please respect the developer and treat it as if it's not there. I have put in 3 other routes on the far left side of Creekside, which I like to call the Binge Side. Those routes vary from 5.9-5.12 and is a wonderful spot in the canyon. See you out there! Apr 16, 2010
Wherever we park!
AOSR   Wherever we park!
I have red tagged my project to avoid confusion. Thanks for respecting it and any gear I may leave on it till it goes clean! Apr 19, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Another perspective of Playin' Hooky on Creekside, as seen from the other side of the canyon: Apr 19, 2010
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
I thought the first pitch was solid 5.8, but everything after that is in the 5.5-5.7 range. Also, be really careful at the start of the 4th pitch. There is a large (3ftX3ft) block that is really loose (my partner almost pulled it down without knowing). There is a small x on it, but if you have some chalk, you should put a big x on it. Other than that, the rock is all pretty good quality, the belay ledges could sleep 6, and the exposure is great. The ticks suck. You can easily avoid the hanging belay on the top of the first pitch by having your second lower you to the nice big huge ledge. Either don't fall off, or clip a long sling into the bolt just below the ledge. This worked really well. May 4, 2010
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Would clarify. It really climbs the first 2 1/2 pitches of Solid Gold. P3: climb up and left following bolts to the grassy ledge and a 2 bolt anchor - 50 feet. May 20, 2010
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
Fun route, and nice addition/option to Solid Gold. Untick yourself before and after climbing.

As others have suggested, pitches can be linked if you have enough draws:
a) Skip the Solid Gold P2 belay and proceed to the big ledge, then climb Playin' Hooky as 140', 12-bolt P3.
b) Combine first two pitches on Solid Gold to make one 190-ft pitch. Avoids the P1 belay issues (hanging belay, lowering to ledge, need for trad gear).
c) Link the 40-ft portion of Solid Gold P3 with the first 40 ft of Playin' Hooky, and belay from the nice ledge at the Rap station 100 ft below the top of PH. Makes the climb three pitches: 190', 80', 100'. May 23, 2010
Wherever we park!
AOSR   Wherever we park!
That large, dangerous block is no longer. Who sent it? Did it hit the road at all? Several times I thought about it, but had no one on the road to do clean up.... Jul 19, 2010
Got most of the way through the first pitch on lead. Was ill prepared with shoes that didn't allow for my feet to swell at all (too much gym climbing). Very well protected, and a lot of fun.

On my to do list for the next time we're in Colorado.

The wading the creek to get there is definitely not for the summer. One of our party tried to wade the river back (in July), ended up getting an offer from a rafting boat to get a ride across, the water was too high and too fast. Jul 27, 2010
Nicole G
Oceanside, CA
Nicole G   Oceanside, CA
Fun climb! Be careful of loose fist-sized rocks though. Also, it's very hard to hear on the first two pitches and you'll lose sight of your partner, so be sure to work out your non-verbal (i.e., rope-tugging commands) before you start climbing. Aug 7, 2010
Bob Robinson
Lone Tree, Colorado
Bob Robinson   Lone Tree, Colorado
Awesome job, Monty! This route is uber fun. Great movement, mellow climbing, sweet belay ledges, and a thoughtful finish on a really cool headwall. Perfectly protected without feeling over-bolted. Classic. Aug 19, 2010
sstrauss   Denver
Good fun on a Sunday morning.
Just a side note: When moving off the first anchor, be careful heading right in the gully. Saw a lot of chalk in there on the loose rocks. If you're unsure of going straight up off the anchors, head to your left a little. It's kind of dirty but much more solid and keeps the climbing easy.

Thanks for putting the route together. Sep 27, 2010
Boulder, CO
Vidal   Boulder, CO
This was an awesome climb and my first multi-pitch sport lead. However, we were faced with the ultimate buzz-kill: The backpacks (NICE backpacks, full of useful-to-us, sort of valuable stuff) we left at the base of the climb were stolen. There was another group on-route today, but we very much doubt it was them (one of the guys claimed to know the guy who bolted the route!). Thinking it was some of the rest stop looky-loos. Be careful and hide your packs if you are going to leave them!!!

If the other dudes who were climbing today are out there (Halloween Sunday, 2010), did you lose your packs as well (not indirectly pointing fingers, mostly looking to sympathize)? Oct 31, 2010
Drew Allan
Drew Allan   Denver/Aspen

I am so sorry to hear that happened to you. When we left, your packs and shoes were right at the base of the climb. A family was in the parking area below the climb but I doubt it was them. There were some shady dudes around the cars but that is near Cat Slab as you know. We checked you out with binocs from the car but didn't drive back to the base. Being older guys with more than most, we don't have any need to steal other peoples gear. It really sucks to hear the scumbags continue to make the canyon unsafe for climbers and their equipment.

Nov 1, 2010
Boulder, CO
Vidal   Boulder, CO

Thanks for your response. Like I said, we never suspected you and your partner as the culprits. We were just hoping they didn't make off with your gear as well. All in all, it was still a great day and neither of us lost much of value. Most frustrating is that everything we lost was well-used, smelly, and climber specific (guidebook=$40, but useless to non-climbers), so it probably just made its way straight into the trash once its value was realized. Hopefully others can heed the warning and keep their stuff well-hidden and safe! Nov 1, 2010
Phill T
Phill T  
Great route, still tons of ticks on the approach. We waded the stream to not have to deal with them so much on the way out. Very doable as of 4/5/11, knee deep, although the current was pretty strong in some places.

Does anyone know what the dihedral system just to the left of the last pitch goes at? There was a party coming down that had just finished, looks fun with a modest rack. Apr 6, 2011
I want to say 16 or 17 to combine the first two pitches. May 26, 2011
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
Glad I finally made it over to Creek Side to climb this. It's a fun route. Mostly 5.6 with some 5.8/5.9- moves. The best pitch is definitely the last one because of the exposure. You've got a beautiful bird's-eye view of the creek and all the kayaks and rafts floating by.

If you're feeling adventurous and want to give Solid Gold a shot, you can get to the rap line from the top of Playin' Hooky and get any gear you have to leave. Jun 11, 2011
Will Sharp
Breck, CO
Will Sharp   Breck, CO
A quick comment on access to this line. I found MP and the guidebook to be a bit vague on this point - and observed others being confused. You do not use the Tyrolean traverse that reaches across to Creekside. Park close to Tunnel 5, cross the river via the bridge at the entrance to the tunnel, jump the jersey barrier and look for the trail which leads upstream, fairly close to the water. The trail is apparent and reasonably well marked. Jul 24, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Playin' Hooky is not in the guidebook. Since it starts with Solid Gold, those approach details are on p.162. Hope that helps. Jul 24, 2011
If you put the first two pitches together and want a draw for every bolt, you will need 19 draws for the bolts plus something for the anchors. This does include putting one draw on the first anchor station. I was able to fairly easily back clean a couple along the way since we only had 18 with us. The bolting is great; however, it is much more run out than other 5.8 or 5.9s in the canyon. This route is really fun, thanks for the hard work. Oct 6, 2011
Harald Harb
Harald Harb   Dumont
If anyone was on this climb this weekend and is missing an essential part of their climbing gear, please call or e-mail or message me. Oct 28, 2011
Harry Dorcy
Denver, CO
Harry Dorcy   Denver, CO
I notice that there are no comments earlier than March. Is Creekside climbable in January and February? New to the Creek, so I'm not quite sure about weather this time of year. Jan 15, 2012
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
The Playing Hooky and Solid Gold area get some sun in the morning in the winter, so it's definitely possible this time of year. The approach may not be too fun though. Jan 15, 2012
golden, co
BameR   golden, co
Climbed yesterday afternoon (3/5/12). Great moderate route, great warm up for the rest of creek side. Started in the sun, climbed in the shade, rappelled in the windy cold shadows.

On the second belay ledge (top of pitch two - there are 2 sets of anchors 1 hanging and 1 at the bench/ledge), there are lots of loose baseball to grapefruit-sized and some larger loose rocks. I piled them into a pile away from where the rope will drag them down when you pull it for a rappel. In hindsight, I should have thrown them into the creek, sorry all.

Please be aware of these rocks when rappelling because your rope could drag off quite the rock storm. Or toss them into the creek if your the only ones up there. Again, I made the pile, got onto rappel, and about 20 feet down said "shit, I should have launched them all down to the river."

Be safe, this is a great 1st exposure climb... you're up there but not out there... great for macho man and his lady. If you want exposure, climb Creekafixion (5.11). The traverse looked scary as hell. Mar 6, 2012
Grant Gerhard
Denver, CO
Grant Gerhard   Denver, CO
Ticks are out in full force! Found a record setting 8 on me and my partner. Mar 27, 2012
Does anybody have a picture of the view from the top of Playing Hooky? I am working on a self reflection piece for my Senior Project in high school, and the 2 times I have climbed this I have not taken a picture. Can't get up today to take one before the canyon closes.

Thanks MPs! May 6, 2012
Mike Morin
Glen, NH
Mike Morin   Glen, NH
Here's one.

May 7, 2012
Hello all - within the last week a blue 60L dry bag walked away from the bowl behind (East) of the Gold Wall. I had stashed it over the week, as it contained ropes and equipment for the highlines in that area. I'm staying optimistic that this is someone's mis-applied good intentions. If you've got any info on this please contact me at Thank you! Oct 14, 2012
I was just prompted to shed some history on this route. I climbed the first three pitches in 1973, placing primitive hammerless pro and belayed by Charly Marchand. I was fiddling with my first gear placement when Layton Kor showed up with a partner and started up the black slab just to our left. Layton whacked in a pin in seconds and disappeared above. His partner moved up and whacked it out in seconds and disappeared — as I was still fiddling. We finished our climb up the huge, right-facing dihedral left of the bolted fourth pitch of PH, feeling exposure comparable to that found on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. At the time, I thought our route (which someone else might have climbed earlier) was 5.7. We walked off to the east. The recently placed bolts don't always follow exactly where we climbed, but are never far away. I confirmed that last June, when rapping Solid Gold, after doing Big Bro.

In 1978, I led Anne Leibold up the same black slab that I saw Layton climb, placing only nuts and finishing with the same huge dihedral. We walked off. Mar 16, 2013
Chris Bartram
Boone , NC
Chris Bartram   Boone , NC
Hey, just a quick question, I'm trying to get out on the route tomorrow and just wanted to double check gear requirements before I get on. First do I need any trad gear for the climb, and second I only need one 60m rope to get down? May 12, 2013
Robbie Flick
Denver, CO
Robbie Flick   Denver, CO
An outstanding route for the grade! No trad gear needed.

Watch all the loose stuff on the grassy ledge at the end of p2 (or a mega-long p1). May 19, 2013
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
To summarize:

-Yes, you can get down with a 60m. Pay attention to what he says about the anchor vs. rappel locations in the description, or just use common sense!

-No, you don't need any trad gear.

-Super fun for a little easy Clear Creek sport! Recommended for a fun outing, or to scout the sick looking routes on the headwall to your left and get psyched on a new project. Jul 8, 2013
Wherever we park!
AOSR   Wherever we park!
Charlie F: Yes, it is possible, but I would not recommend it over rappelling at this specific area. Jul 20, 2013
Ben D.
Ben D.   Colorado
Found a jacket at the base area of "Playin' Hooky" this evening (9/28/2013). If it's yours, please email me at with full description and I'll be happy to return it to you!

Regarding the route, an absolutely fun route worth doing. One of the few moderate, multi-pitches in CCC, perfect for anyone learning multi-pitch! Sep 28, 2013
William Thiry
Las Vegas
William Thiry   Las Vegas
The 5.8 rating may be misleading to some because the 1st pitch of Solid Gold, which must be climbed to get to Playin' Hooky, is 5.9+. There are two cruxes on that pitch. The first, at the 3rd bolt, can be avoided by climbing 5 feet to the left. The second crux, ten feet higher, can also be avoided to the left, but doing so isn't much easier nor recommended.

This is a terrific climb. Just note that if you are new to the route and relatively inexperienced at leading then you may find the very first pitch will offer you some exciting crux sections. Luckily they are well-protected. Oct 12, 2013
Chick on Crack
Superior, CO
Chick on Crack   Superior, CO
Abram, you crack me up. I'm stoked to climb this with B-Rad. Next stop, Eldo! Mar 27, 2014
Clay Hansen
Clay Hansen   Colorado
Just a heads up to whoever climbs this next, the anchor on top of the last pitch has a loose hanger. The nut on the right hanger is only hand tight. The expansion bolt still feels solid, but the hanger is loose and the nut needs to be tightened. Apr 12, 2014
MBX5   Arvada
Ticks are out! May 4, 2014
Super fun introduction to Clear Creek Canyon. As a novice climber, I found the cruxes on pitch one fair, requiring but a few thoughtful moves. Pretty sweet final step to the top out. And yes, I did find ticks crawling on my feet during the walk back to the car. Aug 29, 2014
Jeff Hofheins 1
Portland, OR
Jeff Hofheins 1   Portland, OR
There is a new route (?) immediately left of Playin' Hooky, to the right of Black Gold. Not sure what it was rated. The roof was well-protected, but it was a little difficult to pull if you can't reach very far. I'd have given it a 5.9 maybe? Most of it was easy except the roof. Sep 4, 2014
Ted Peterson
Boulder, CO
Ted Peterson   Boulder, CO
Apparently the route left of Playin' Hooky and right of Black Gold is some kind of 9. We met Alan Prehmus there today who bolted it. It looks like he is pretty active on MP, so I'm sure you will hear more about it (and another pitch he just wrapped up today). Sep 14, 2014
Ethan Little
Longmont, CO
Ethan Little   Longmont, CO
The route between Solid Gold (Playin' Hooky) and Black Gold is Furlough Day (5.9). Recommended for the small roof. Jan 30, 2015
Denver, CO
Ignacio   Denver, CO
Thanks for the generous and spotless bolting job! Checked it out last weekend to wake up the rusty rock skills after the cold weather and had a blast. The last pitch is STELLAR. Feb 9, 2015
Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
The last pitch climbs to the right of a dihedral, it's really the opposite of "exposed". If you're looking for exposure, I'd recommend climbing the last pitch of Black Gold instead. Fun and easy moves climb around the overhang with a bit of air, then easy climbing to the top.

5.9 for the first pitch (approach pitch to Solid Gold), then really 5.8 (even 5.7) for the rest. The crux on the first pitch may be harder for shorter people. Apr 12, 2015
Michael Underwood
Denver, CO
Michael Underwood   Denver, CO
If it's your first time climbing Playin' Hooky, or if you're trying to climb it faster than you did last time, read the information I've provided below. These recommendations are based on my dozen or so ascents of the route (it's how I teach friends about multipitch climbing). Even with a relatively inexperienced partner, I can knock out the entire climb in under two hours following this beta:

(1) Link P1 and P2 with a 60 m rope and 20 quickdraws (and bring something to anchor with as well). If you don't have enough draws, just know that the bolting is generous, and you can easily back clean at least four draws throughout the climb. Even if you've never climbed the route before, I would suggest avoiding the P1 belay, which puts you at a semi-hanging stance and is not nearly as comfortable as the spacious P2 belay ledge.

(2) Rappel with two 60 m ropes, if you have them. Trailing or backpacking a second rope up the route is completely worth it for the speed of descent. The first rappel with two 60s will easily take you to the large P2 ledge. The second rappel will get you the rest of the way to the ground. If you don't have two 60s at your disposal, just use the standard rappel beta provided in the route description, but realize that the rappelling process will take you substantially longer and will involve some uncomfortable hanging.

For those that are curious about linking pitches, note that in addition to linking P1 and P2, it's also possible to link P3 to P4, thus doing the entire route as two ~60 m pitches. P3 is short (40 ft or less) and goes up easy terrain. To link the pitches, just clip the three bolts that lead up to the P3 anchor, run it out on the easy ground past the P3 anchor (don't clip it!), and then clip the first bolt of P4. A little drag is produced, but it's not bad enough to throw you off balance very much, and it spares you the nuisance of fiddling around with an entire extra belay just for the sake of moving up and left 40 feet. Be careful where you run the rope between P3 and P4, since there are some loose spots around there, and you wouldn't want to send a rock down on your belayer. Jun 8, 2015
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
Be cautious if trying to link P1/2 on a 60m as suggested above - I routinely link them with a 70m and only have about 15 ft of extra rope. I think you'll be pretty short on a true 60m. Jun 20, 2015
Duff Duff  
Climbed yesterday in the shade most of the day. Linked 1-2 easily and belay ledge is huuuuuuuuge. Met 2 more lovely people at the top and used 2 70m to rap down in 2 raps. Awesome route! Jun 25, 2015
Michael Underwood
Denver, CO
Michael Underwood   Denver, CO
No disrespect to Erika, but I'm sure a true 60m rope will safely and comfortably link P1 and P2. I've linked the two using about three different 60m ropes, and if memory serves, one of them was my girlfriend's old 60m, which she's had to shorten once or twice due to damage near one of the ends. Jul 5, 2015
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
Maybe I don't do enough easy outdoor sport multi-pitch climbing, but other than "Big Bad Wolf" at Red Rock, I haven't found many at this grade that offer 5.8/5.9 moves up multiple pitches. Jul 28, 2015
Jamal Noshahi
Jamal Noshahi   Denver,CO
Hey all,

Would love to have my right glove reunited with the left one which I have. It has a black palm and an orange top. The brand is Fox, and you'll see a fox head on it. If you happen to find it while hanging around Solid Gold or Playin' Hooky, please gimme a buzz!

413 426 4691

Jamal Aug 31, 2015
I lost my green Mammut rope on the 4th pitch of Playing Hooky. If you find it, please call me 2147342305.

Mike Sep 6, 2015
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I'll bite. Michael, how d'ya get down? Are you still up there? Sep 11, 2015
We climbed Playin' Hooky last night. Fun route! However...SAFETY ALERT. The chains on the first anchor are EXTREMELY worn at the bolt. It is worn at least halfway through. I would NOT use them for rapping. Bolts are good. Chains are not. I will get up there within the week if it is not fixed before then. Sep 19, 2015
Done. New chains. Sep 19, 2015
Ben D.
Ben D.   Colorado
What a great route! I thought I read somewhere that there is a walk-off decent in the gully directly behind (North) the summit. Does anyone know anything about this? Sep 25, 2015
Alex Ghiggeri
Denver, Colorado
Alex Ghiggeri   Denver, Colorado
Climbed up to Playin' Hooky today 10-11-2015. It was an amazing climb. Super fun multi-pitch. I am commenting on something that I noticed today, hoping someone on here can give me some feedback. When you reach the ledge and come over the top of it to the anchor for the begin of the Hooky slab, I noticed a new route bolted into the wall to the right of Hooky.... It is not on this site and not in the guidebooks. It begins with a nice-sized arête then goes up to the summit, though I did not see any anchor at the top, I'm guessing you walk across the top to reach the Hooky anchor. Does anyone know anything about this route, rating, name, FA? Oct 11, 2015
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
I think this is what you saw?… Oct 11, 2015
E Johnson
Boulder, CO
E Johnson   Boulder, CO
I thought the crux of p1, at about bolt 6, was pretty hard for 5.8. It was not at all positive gripping the sloper rail with poor feet and leaning carefully left to the good pocket. I barely reached it. Then there were several more moves before my feet were on good holds. Slipping off would have meant a fall back right. Probably not an injurous fall, but very nerve wracking nonetheless. I am 5'3" with a zero ape index; maybe anyone taller finds it easier. Nov 8, 2015
Carl B.
Denver, CO
Carl B.   Denver, CO
Question, what is the sunshine coverage for this time of year. I'm looking at doing the route with a buddy this weekend. I want to make sure we won't be shivering in the shade if we try to get up there early.

Thank you Mar 8, 2016
@Carl B. it's roughly a south-facing face, so I think it'd be pretty sunny most of the day. It might get shady in the late afternoon on this particular route, not really sure, but yeah pretty sunny overall. Apr 9, 2016
Did it in two pitches, brought a second rope to get down in two raps. Really rad route. Apr 25, 2016
Jeremy Vimmerstedt
Gypsum, Colorado
Jeremy Vimmerstedt   Gypsum, Colorado
Has anyone climbed it in the last few weeks? I'm wondering what the ticks are like right now. Jun 9, 2016
Lindsay Waters
Boulder, CO
Lindsay Waters   Boulder, CO
@Jeremy Vimmerstedt: I just climbed it yesterday. Didn't see any ticks or find any on me or my buddy after. I wore pants, because I was worried about it and I regretted it. Beautiful, sunny warm day until the sudden storm. Jun 13, 2016
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, Spain
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, Spain
Climbed this wonderful route today. No ticks noted. Maybe that is a spring/early summer thing? We combined pitch 1 and 2 as most seem to do, belaying on the huge ledge. The next pitch, to get up to the slab, we strayed right too early and ended up at a double bolt anchor (no chains or rings) just under a small overhang. Alex G. mentioned this in a comment above and Mark Roth was right - this will lead you on to the 5th pitch of Black Gold if you climb the bulge to the right and continue straight up. That is what we did and knew something was fishy since most of the climbing was way easier than 5.8. Once up on the slab, we saw the line of bolts and the mid-face rappel anchor for Playin' Hooky to our left. On top, we moved things over to the the left, rapped down and took turns leading that correct last pitch. Glad we did - very nice climbing. I mention this in case anyone else gets confused. BTW, I think the first 200' of this route is anywhere from 5.7 to 5.9 depending on whether you try to stay in line with the bolts or not. Aug 25, 2016
My wife and I did this route last Thursday (9/22/16)and really enjoyed it! All the information offered on this site sure helped in that we had enough QDs to combine the first two pitches and knew what to expect. That first pitch anchor is a tough place to hang even if you're waiting to rap off while you're partner's coming down.

This is a multi-pitch I can't wait to take a few friends on to experience the
exposure. I was a bit concerned it would be difficult to follow the trail to the base, but it's pretty straightforward.

Thank you! Sep 26, 2016
Jason D
Jason D  
Didn't link pitch 1-2 and wish I had. The first pitch belay is in an awkward spot. Apr 13, 2017
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Regarding the hanging belay at the end of P1 (proper) of Solid Gold.

You can slingshot off the rap anchors if you want to, but have to downclimb back to the pod. Supercomfy!

Richard originally set up SG to be climbed with a 60m. If the belay/rap station were to be moved, it would be a bit too short on the P2 rap with a 60m, but you could make it with a 70m. Apr 14, 2017
Found rope at base on June 4, 2017. Identify it, and I'll get it back to you. Jun 5, 2017
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
If you only brought one rope and are stuck doing 4 rappels, consider scooting left to the P1 anchors of Black Gold, instead of suffering at the P1 anchors of Solid Gold. Jun 21, 2017
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
I installed an anchor on the comfy ledge below the original anchors on the first pitch (of Solid Gold) to help facilitate 2-way traffic and also so you don't have to do the hanging belay. It should make life much easier for people, since every other comment about this route is how the hanging belay sucks, lol. Jul 2, 2017
John RB
Superior, CO
John RB   Superior, CO
Thank you, Kevin, for the new belay station and for all the other contributions to the canyon you've put in! Jul 4, 2017
Philip DeFraties
Golden, CO
Philip DeFraties   Golden, CO
Trying to wrap my head around why MP lists this as a 200 foot, 2 pitch route when it's actually close to 400 and 4 pitches? Oct 4, 2017
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
^ The other two pitches are the first two pitches of Solid Gold. Playin' Hooky is really just a 2 pitch (or 1 depending on how you break it up) variation :) Oct 4, 2017
My first multi-pitch. Excellent route with some forgiveness in the hardest spots. Get there early as it is popular spots j Oct 23, 2017
Brendan Armesy
Fort Collins CO
Brendan Armesy   Fort Collins CO
Major thanks to Kevin on setting the new anchors for the first pitch’s belay station. So much more comfortable. Also, on the last pitch there is a set of bolts to the right of Playin' Hooky! Anyone know what the route is? Nov 14, 2017
Tanner Bond
Englewood, CO
Tanner Bond   Englewood, CO
Very cold this morning as this wall doesn't get full sun coverage until noon during the winter. P1 was definitely the hardest. Great belay stations and rappelling.

We got a little off course at P4 when we went to the right instead of the left. We still got to the top and loved the route, but the anchor up on the right leaves a lot to be desired. Lots of rope drag with the anchor (although look new) being placed so far back. I assume it was placed there because the rocks near the top would be too unstable.

We ended up rappelling off the normal route, and it was quick to the bottom.

Also, there is currently a frozen piece of river/rocks that allows you to cross from the road instead of going from the bridge. Jan 18, 2018
One nut on the final anchor is loose and was almost halfway unscrewed (look at the hardware youre trusting your life to--people who rapped off right before me). I hand tightened it, but it would probably be good if someone could bring a wrench up. Mar 13, 2018

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