Type: Trad, Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, Koko Kosila, Spring 2002
Page Views: 26,361 total · 118/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Solid Gold is a five pitch route that runs 450 feet up the right side of Creek Side. The line picks out the best features of the grey and black slab that starts 20 feet above the water and then fires up the left side of the huge open-book dihedral that splits the upper section at 300 feet.

P1: (5.9+, bolts and gear) this is a 100 foot pitch that goes on bolts and gear and finishes at a double bolt anchor. The rock is solid all the way and kicks out a couple of fun spots.

P2: (5.8, bolts) is also 100 feet long and is largely quite easy with a couple of 5.8 sections, one right off the belay. It finishes on a ledge at a double bolt belay stance. However, for descent purposes, a higher rap anchor was installed that keeps the rope running clean and off the ledge. This stance is ten feet higher than the belay stance.

P3: (5.8, bolts) is close to 100 feet as well and has a nifty sequence in the middle just above a grassy ledge. It finishes at a three bolt stance.

P4: (5.11d/5.12a, bolts) is 80 feet long and picks out a terrific long crux on bulletproof rock. After leaving the belay, one encounters a few feet of friable stone leading into the solid gold crux - just take this short section with some care. Pull the bulge above on superb stone with inobvious sequences. This pitch finishes at a three bolt stance.

P5: (5.11d, bolts) is 90 feet long and guns for the lip of the overhang on superb stone. A couple of big reaches will gain the edge of the lip and these are followed by a sub-vertical waltz to the little tree at the top and a double bolt anchor. You do have to watch the footwork on the finishing slab.

For the most part, Solid Gold is a very clean route; however, like most things in Clear Creek, it is essential to watch out for any loose rocks. I have cleaned what I think will be climbed, but straying off the line could unearth some dangerous flakes. Fishermen do hang out at the base and are the most troublesome "targets". Rocks ricocheting from the slab will hit the road, trust me. The slab pitches can provide access to new routes (Bob D?) going in left of Solid Gold.

Protection

A 60 meter rope, a dozen draws, and Friends or Camalots in the # 2, 2.5, 3 range. One can rap from the very top in five rappels using just a 60 meter rope. All of the rope pulls are clean, and all of the belays are either at double or triple bolt stances. It is, of course, positively essential to tie the ends of the rope at each rappel; three of these will have you rapping to the knot at 100 feet, leaving no room to screw up. A 50 meter rope does not work. We used to have a Tyrolean that crossed the creek adjacent to the start of the climbing; however, this was chopped in September. One can approach from the Dog Wall by hiking along the stream or wade across where the Tyrolean used to be.

Tick Alert

Beware of ticks when at the base and on the approach. This area has a reputation for a disproportionate number of ticks. Do a tick check!

Photos