Avg: 3.5 from 112 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, Koko Kosila, Spring 2002|
|Page Views:||28,273 total · 120/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Jun 14, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
P1: (5.9+, bolts and gear) this is a 100 foot pitch that goes on bolts and gear and finishes at a double bolt anchor. The rock is solid all the way and kicks out a couple of fun spots.
P2: (5.8, bolts) is also 100 feet long and is largely quite easy with a couple of 5.8 sections, one right off the belay. It finishes on a ledge at a double bolt belay stance. However, for descent purposes, a higher rap anchor was installed that keeps the rope running clean and off the ledge. This stance is ten feet higher than the belay stance.
P3: (5.8, bolts) is close to 100 feet as well and has a nifty sequence in the middle just above a grassy ledge. It finishes at a three bolt stance.
P4: (5.11d/5.12a, bolts) is 80 feet long and picks out a terrific long crux on bulletproof rock. After leaving the belay, one encounters a few feet of friable stone leading into the solid gold crux - just take this short section with some care. Pull the bulge above on superb stone with inobvious sequences. This pitch finishes at a three bolt stance.
P5: (5.11d, bolts) is 90 feet long and guns for the lip of the overhang on superb stone. A couple of big reaches will gain the edge of the lip and these are followed by a sub-vertical waltz to the little tree at the top and a double bolt anchor. You do have to watch the footwork on the finishing slab.
For the most part, Solid Gold is a very clean route; however, like most things in Clear Creek, it is essential to watch out for any loose rocks. I have cleaned what I think will be climbed, but straying off the line could unearth some dangerous flakes. Fishermen do hang out at the base and are the most troublesome "targets". Rocks ricocheting from the slab will hit the road, trust me. The slab pitches can provide access to new routes (Bob D?) going in left of Solid Gold.
Creek Side - right (the base of Gold Side). 1. Black Gold. 2. Furlough Day. 3. Solid Gold (standard approach to Playin' Hooky). 4. PTO. 5. Oyster Bar. 6. Creek Nation.
Climber at anchors of P1 of Solid Gold and belayer. Eds. The rope actually goes from the start of Furlough Day onto the upper part of P1 of Solid Gold.
Red：Solid Gold start to Playin' Hooky. Yellow: Solid Gold. Eds. The red line deviates at the black roof on P2 from Solid Gold onto Furlough Day. Solid Gold's P2 is on the lighter gray rock to the right of the red line on P2.
GPS coordinates for Playin' Hooky & Solid Gold are: 39.741468, -105.409588.