The Art of the Deal

This is a good climb, but it does have some undesirable sections. The crux is the first pitch. The guidebook calls it 5.8, but it feels harder. I fell leading, and my partner fell following; however, the protection is good. We both thought it was about 10a in difficulty. You traverse left after the difficulties to a #4 Camalot-sized crack. It is a good idea to protect the start of this traverse for the second in case they fall off the crux.

The second pitch is easy, about 5.5. The guidebook says it is 5.2. The last part is about 5.2, but it is harder for about 50 feet above the pitch one anchor. There is a single bolt on this pitch about 20 feet below the anchor.

The next pitch is 5.7 and goes up easy terrain to a hand crack that angles right to left. It looks difficult from below but is not too hard. You can see the anchor above.

The last pitch starts up a chimney left of the anchor and follows a thin crack which moves left. This is a fun pitch and is 5.8. It protects with lots of small cams. A red tri-cam is great to have at the top. The pitch ends at a bolted anchor.

There is an alternate first pitch about 10 feet left of the main start which is more direct. This optional start is 5.9 and protects well going up a left-facing dihedral before moving right below a protectable roof.

The climb starts about 15 feet left of Creek Dance. The optional start is 15 more feet to the left. The main start is up a slab next to a left-facing, overhang-like dihedral.

A standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. A 70m rope is necessary for the descent.

The real descent: the FA says it was intended to be rapped - 4-3, 3-2, 2-1, and 1-ground with a 70m rope, or walk off east down the well marked climber's trail.

Per curt86iroc: don't rap the fall line climber's left of the route proper. That has resulted in at least 1 rescue.

Eds. Note, many rap the route.