Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Noah McKelvin, solo|
|Page Views:||1,320 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Noah McKelvin on Jul 4, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Per the rockfall mitigation project has been completed. Marked as archived / Project Status: Complete on CODOT.
Project Work Resumes Nov. 13 Following Summer Shutdown
On Tuesday, Nov. 13, crews will resume work on this project, starting with rockfall mitigation on US 6 from mile points 260 to 272. Remaining work, anticipated to be completed in April 2019, includes:
scaling rock; removing scaled rock; and installing rock reinforcement, rock anchors, mesh anchors, and 160,000 squat feet of wire mesh.
Psychotic Love starts in the left-slanting crack system to the left of the Craig Luebben Memorial Route. Belay from the lone bolt at the base. You also have to do the low fifth class traverse to get over here which in itself creates some adventure.
P1. Work up in the awkward crack (#4 useful), and once it ends, continue up face climbing with gear here and there, but a bit of it is questionable. After almost 50 meters, a nice little pod in a dihedral is presented that you can't see from the ground. Build the anchor carefully here (5.9+).
P2. Get ready for a a fun ride. Your goal is to basically aim for the double bolt anchors high up and left and 50 meters away. (Fool's Gold anchors). This pitch is the route finding crux for sure. Continue up another 20 feet to the top of the sort of dihedral you belayed in. Place a 0.4 in here and extend it like crazy. A long traverse left with no gear (at least I couldn't find any) eventually leads you to the ledge with the fixed ropes. It's the second to last bolt for the fixed ropes if I remember, where you work up over an exciting roof. It's the main weakness in this roof section. From here, traverse left, up and then back right via a airy small ledge to the anchors of Fool's Gold before its 5.11 pitch. There is a nice little ledge (5.10a R).
P3. Clip the first bolt and do a cruxy move to surmount the small roof. From here, you traverse straight left from underneath the fixed quickdraw for Fool's Gold. Work your way up the weakness to eventually traverse back right over bushes to the bolt with a fixed biner. You then continue straight up the dihedral to the top. There are a couple fixed, junky pieces. You are soon underneath a small roof with sketchy rock and sketchy gear pretty far below. Take a deep breath, and gun it for the top. A nice tree to the left is presented (5.10 R). You could also traverse far left and avoid the top sketchy bit of climbing, if you get bad weather, to the tree.