Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||James Bellamy, Noah McKelvin|
|Page Views:||2,407 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Noah McKelvin on Mar 26, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
For those that can't live without choss or adventure, read on. For those looking for bolts or solid rock, you might be disappointed.
This route is worth the adventure. You may find it more like the Black Canyon than Clear Creek. That being said, an R rating is put here not only for the runouts but to let others know that there ain't going to be gear every couple feet and to be careful with loose rock. The runouts are on the easier terrain, however, as the crux is fairly well-protected. For those that seek solid rock, don't think this is your route.
Wade across the river and park right before the Tunnel 6 at the end of the Creek Side area.
P1: 5.10a. Locate the overhanging, slanting crack to the left of the leftmost route that ends at a tree. Bushwhack your way up the awesome, overhanging offwidth (crux) that prevents jamming since there is a bush in your face. Easier overhung climbing with good gear and holds/jams leads to a flake. Belay here or at the tree. I thought it went 5.9, but my buddy was very confident that it was 5.10. So we agreed on 5.10a. I'll let others be the judge. It's not about the grades but about the experience.
P2: 5.5. "Belay and Hide", a fun adventure depending on your line. Watch the loose rock and your partner below, along with some cactus. I made a typical alpine anchor after 50 meters that was so so. Basically climb straight up.
The route gets its name from a fellow shouting "are there bolts up there?" while I was building an anchor.
P3: 5.8 R. Traverse right onto the runout headwall that has great holds but is vertical without gear. Mantle and continue up to a great ledge before the final headwall. Continue straight up following the holds. Gear is there but so so. Traverse left to a huge flake and then mantel onto the top with a perfect tree.
This route might disappoint most, but we found it to be worth it! I'd do it again. I'm a sucker for choss though.