Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, October 8, 1998
Page Views: 16,225 total, 79/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


227 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

If you like thin face climbing that utilizes balance and sequence, then this route is for you. It begins with the same first bolt as Reefer Madness and continues left through some tricky 5.11 climbing. Rest at the ledge and continue through the final 3 bolt crux. The beta is incredibly fun to work out and the climb has good clipping stances. The guidebook says 5.12d/13a, but Nate Weitzel and I felt that it wasn't quite that difficult.

Protection

Standard sport. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Per Dylan Cousins: the bolts upgraded to 1/2" stainless steel on July 20, 2016, hardware courtesy of the ASCA.
Nolan Robertson
  5.12c
Nolan Robertson  
  5.12c
The finishing moves of the crux sequence on this thing are exciting! You think you'll be getting a jug sooner than you really do! Apr 7, 2017
My partner and I mistook this for Reefer Madness and had to bail at the fifth bolt. We left two quickdraws. If you find them and clean them, could you send me a PM please? I'll describe them to whomever finds them.

Thanks! Jun 23, 2016
Clint Hager 1
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Clint Hager 1   Colorado Springs, Colorado
I was climbing here on June 11th, and I was next to a party that were climbing this route and Wet Dream. Anyways, they accidentally forgot to clean one of their draws on this route. I think one person in the party's name was Mike.

Mike, if you're reading this, I have your quickdraw. Send me a message, and I can give it back to you.

-Clint Jun 12, 2014
DPug
  5.12c
DPug  
  5.12c
Yesterday I ended up breaking off the good incut right above the third bolt. There still is the good flat edge to the right of where the hold broke, so it doesn't change anything. Just thought I'd let people know. Jun 9, 2014
Got on it for the first time today...awesome! I was on TR set quite easily after ascending Reefer Madness. I got the first 2/3 of the route clean first go until the last two bolts where the crux lies. It looks like you can string together a series of sequency crimps through the crux rather than the desperate sloper/squeeze problem people talk about. I will return and try some more. May 26, 2014
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
  5.12c
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
  5.12c
Rock is very very greasy at this time. Still, arguably, one of the best routes at Clear Creek. May 13, 2013
Outstanding 12c route. Jan 23, 2012
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b/c
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b/c
Enough said...bahahahahahaha! I love mp.com. Classic! Jan 21, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great route with funs flowy moves and a super fun crux. There is a reason someone is always on this thing. On par with Ken Tanks, Anarchitect, and Sucking in terms of quality.... Jan 16, 2012
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b/c
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b/c
Corey, you should try Testify at Wall of J mountainproject.com/v/testi…. Sep 20, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
I think Coy Flynn should try some harder routes in the Front Range. He may surprise himself or at least have a better idea of 5.12 ratings.

I think some folks rate TDD on the onsight, some rate it on the redpoint. Sep 15, 2011
slim

  5.12c
slim    
  5.12c
If you've sent Lucid Dreaming, I think it's ok for you to say that you climb hardish 12. Which route was easier for you, TDD or LD? Sep 15, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
If you're bored with the start of TDD, you can add another 5.12 crux by starting up Reefer Madness. Traverse up and left at the 3rd bolt staying at the level of the jug before the crux of Reefer.
Dumb but fun. Aug 3, 2011
Stephen Nance
Boulder, CO
Stephen Nance   Boulder, CO
Spot on .12c. I am 6'5", and it is still hard. Rhe bottom crux sequence maybe easier for me, but getting my feet up for the last sequence to the jug is very tough for me with my height.

My opinion, this could be the benchmark 12c in CCC. May 30, 2011
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.12c
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.12c
FANTASTIC LINE! Looking forward to working on this one.... May 10, 2011
Great line!! Felt solid at 12c. Cool crux section as well. Did not get the on-sight but will be back for the red point!!! Nov 11, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
It is to you and me Darth, but apparently we're in the minority. Sep 8, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  5.12c
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  5.12c
I find it interesting that many people have 'ticked' this route without actually redpointing it.... Don't really care, but isn't that the definition of a 'tick'??? Sep 5, 2009
Micah Holt
  5.12d
Micah Holt  
  5.12d
I thought it was harder than Finger Prince....maybe I am just weird, but really. I think 12c if not 12d...I lean towards 12d. I also thought that it was close to on par with Flying Cowboys and Sucking My Will To Live. It's just hard to grade due to the cryptic beta. Nov 10, 2008
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
5.12b--I guess I will open my yap on this one as well. First I need to say that I usually do not contribute to public spray, and that I thought this to be an amazing line! I will further add that I have climbed other routes given .12c, and found most of them to require further effort. By example I would say this one feels easier than Pizza Dick, Power Bulge, most certaily easier than Je T'aime...If you can make the reach properly ( which feels natural ), then you're stylin' to the chains! I have yet to encounter a bad day climbing at CCC! Peace, Young Doug. Sep 2, 2008
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.12c
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.12c
I hate this climb with all my heart. It is a fine route...for me to poop on. Mar 27, 2008
God I love this place! The only problem is what the hell happened to it. It's like I move away and now the whole Golden Cliffs crowed has moved in. Funny story, I watched like ten different climbers get on TDD this weekend. They all lowered off and down graded it. Best part was not a single one sent the dam thing. No wonder grades are so out of WHACK! Everyone that has sent it, is pretty set on 12c, however, pulling on a draw must to make it soft for the grade.... LOL. Oct 7, 2007
BZD
BZD  
I just recently had my draws stolen off Ten Digit Dialing, like in the past 4 or 5 days. Does anyone know anything that could help me get them back? I really need them. I won't be pissed off. I just want them back. Thanks. Oct 2, 2006
Wyatt Payne
Littleton CO
Wyatt Payne   Littleton CO
This is one of my favorite routes in the canyon. Definitely a good one to repeat. I jumped on it today and noticed that the crux is easier. A sloping side pull has mysteriously become quite positive. I'm afraid someone has chipped it, and want to know if anyone else has noticed this. I was definitely bummed. I'd like to think climbers are more respectful. Let me know what's up. Sep 18, 2005
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Great fun. I was expecting the start to be more difficult than it is, from all the hype this little route gets. The crux is certainly no harder than 12c. Probably the biggest crux is deciphering the most efficient sequence, as every available feature, edge, bump, and crimp, are chalked and ticked!

Plenty of good rests before the crux, great clipping stances. Aug 15, 2005
Alan, I think this is a really good line (and well bolted) but there is no way it's 13a. Just because this climb took you a certain number of tries does not necessarily mean that it is a certain grade. Different climbs favor different people. I got this route on my second try in the middle of summer whereas Anarchitect took more than five days of work over the course of a month. I usually dont redpoint 12c on my second try but favor crimps over slopers and power over endurance so 12c seems reasonable. Oct 17, 2003
Patheticus
  5.12d
Patheticus  
  5.12d
Another 100' of this would make my shorts wet... Hmm... wet shorts...

Ratings be damned, it is one of the best routes in the park. Sequential, dynamic, 3-bolt crux. 'Git on it!! Oct 13, 2003
Area Dan
Oakland, CA
 
Area Dan   Oakland, CA
 
I got on this route today- perfect weather. I must say it is really one of the highest quality pitches I have ever been on. I don't know and don't care about the grade, but thanks for bolting this masterpiece. Now I just have to go back and link it up to the bird poop.www.areadan.com. Oct 12, 2003
jonah  
Climbed this thing today, so I wanted to log on to see what people said about the route. Imagine my disappointment to find nothing but a bunch of insecure pussies trying to boost their own egos by spraying about how easy they found this route. What about "great job, Alan, thanks for putting in the time and effort to bolt such a fun route" or "is there a better way to reach the sidepull than popping into an undercling on the triangular horn" or anything anyone cares about other than all the bitching about ratings. Wankers... Jul 3, 2003
I would have to say that height is not really a factor on this route. 12d at Smith took me two weeks, TDD took me three tries on the same day, and I am only 5'6 and I pretty much suck at sport climbing. 12c seems good but maybe a little generous. Would love it it if were 13a. Great route fun moves. Jun 14, 2003
I think what people need to keep in mind is that the shorter you are the more difficult the crux is on this route. I did the route with someone only a few inches taller than me and watched him reach through the crux holds using the same solid good feet, whereas I had to move my feet twice onto much less desired footholds.

Having said that, I did TDD 2 years ago on my 2 try. While it didnt feel 13a for me, I would give it 12c/d based on the single hard move. Sucking my will to live is more sustained, but TDD has a harder move. Its a stellar route whatever the grade is!

Kathleen Staffa - (too lazy to register) Apr 25, 2003
Joe Collins
  5.12c
Joe Collins  
  5.12c
This is the best sport pitch I've climbed thus far in Clear Creek! Unless I've gotten much better this winter, I agree with the above comments regarding the inaccurate guidebook rating of 12d/13a. Its probably more like 12c, and not a particular stout one at that.

Best sport pitch I've done in Clear Creek (caveat: I have not tried Anarchitecht or Sonic Youth).

fair to middlin' 12c Mar 17, 2003
Phenomenal. Oct 2, 2002
I would go with 12c, but I think calling it any easier than that is just serious sandbagging. Aug 20, 2002
5.12c - Not a bad little onsight Aug 19, 2002
This is a stellar route, but I'll eat my shorts if it's 13a. My best guess would be that it'd rate 12b or maybe b/c at an older area like Shelf. I haven't really climbed in 2 years, and I came within a hang of flashing it this weekend, meaning that it can't possibly be that hard ('cause I ain't that good!)

One of my favorite routes a Clear Creek! 10 stars on a 3 star scale sounds about right! Sep 4, 2001
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Having flashed this route, I have to say that comparing it with its neighbor, Reefer Madness, there is no single move on the 5.12 harder than the crux of the "11a". This doesn't make TDD easier but makes me wonder about Reefer Madness. Aug 28, 2001
This is an excellent route!! Great rock, well bolted, cool moves, the best line on the wall (one of the better new lines in CCC)...Not at all the grade given in the guide (12d/13a)... Realistically felt only 12b (but I'm 6')...compare it to something in Eldo. Inflated grades are taking over the Front Range, since the mid '90s!!! It's way more proud to grade new (sport) routes according to the standards of the early '90s and before.... Aug 16, 2001
A very good route about which I am very happy for careful and thinking Flash. Good moves to start with much harder finger moves near end, but route is very short so power is not very great. Having long reach in crux makes move to left not so hard as for the shorter person. Aug 9, 2001
In regard to the above discussion on grading in Clear Creek, and especially TDD, I would have to agree with the concept of using Gold Standard routes to compare moves. I have tried many of the Clear Creek 12d's and 13a's, as well as having completed a number of the 12c's in the canyon. My opinion of the grade is based on these routes, and I would reference Twitch in particular. Twitch is very similar to TDD, although the crux moves are on slightly smaller holds. For this reason alone, TDD seems to be 12c, although definitely a hard 12c. Also, compare TDD to Sucking my will to live at the Primo Wall. I found Sucking to be more challenging and powerful, and it is another 5.12c.

I agree with Quinn and would love to applaud both Alan Nelson and Richard Wright for so many phenomenal routes in CCC, and thank them for all their hard work. I also respect the right of the first ascentionist to give a grade, but this grade needs to be worked out with the climbing community to establish the final grade. This happens with all good routes over time, the grade often changes a bit as more people figure it out. One other comment is that the grade should be accurate to give people who are aspiring to certain climbing levels a realistic feel for that grade. I have been quite disappointed in the past by trying routes in many areas that I put on my goal list, only to find the grade to be easier than stated. This can give people a false sense of security, which can be a dangerous thing.

Finally, even though I am a younger climber, I am definitely not a young gun who warms up on 13a. It has taken me 8+ years to be able to even try some of these routes that we are discussing, so I feel justified in giving my opinion on the grades. Jul 12, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Without being too patronizing, I would not ascribe old, fat, weak, out of shape..... etc, etc, to the first ascensionist of Ten Digit Dialing. In fact, reference to approximately 30 years of climbing experience should add something to one's qualification to grade a route. And this Alan Nelson has. For TDD, I'll offer no personal opinion here, however, consensus grading seems to be one of the final arbitors for establishing a grade. Another arbitor is reference to a "Gold Standard" for the grade, in the area. As far as Clear Creek is concerned: Is TDD easier than Twitch? Is it harder than Anarchitect? Is it on par with Evil? What I will offer is that TDD has at least one move harder than Battle's End, which we call 5.12c and that seems to be well accepted. Down-grading by strong, young bloods should be taken with a grain of salt. I've climbed with some of these guys, and many are so strong now that most 5.12 comes very easy. Let's say that no matter how young and strong you are, a "Gold Standard" is the inviolate reference point. So think about the reference point when picking the grade, and remember: it's okay to get better, but getting better doesn't mean that a route has gotten easier. Jun 13, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
After a certain point and after a certain number of burns through a route, there comes a point when one justifiably owns a route, and now I own Ten Digit Dialing. Just as QS says, working out the beta on this route is a kick, albeit sometimes frustrating. I won't give it away, but the kicker on this ever so slightly past vertical route lies in figuring out how to dial in the feet and keep them working through the crimps that comprise the crux. This is a brilliant route on which the climbing just gets harder and harder with every move up the wall. Worth ten stars on a three star scale. Three cheers to Alan Nelson for this one, seriously. May 24, 2001