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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FFA: D. Mabe, 2009
Page Views: 8,647 total, 96/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 29, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

EDIT: Double Stout is now logically split into two separate routes, the first pitch to the no hands rest under the roof, and the entire line extended over the roof.

Technical and insecure steep slab and face climbing. Start with the first few clips over a small roof of Black and Tan, and continue straight up the golden brown face. The sustained crux lasts for several more clips (preferably pre-hung). Stopping short at the anchor of Casual Gods below the roof offers an excellent 5.13- tick in itself.

Location

Continue past Reefer Madness along the exposed ledges on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. This is the route left of Black and Tan. It starts with the first three clips of B & T and continues straight up and left. The route stays dry in the rain. If it is raining, the first bolt of B&T can provide a convenient belay bolt.

Nuts and Bolts

8 or 9 clips get you to the anchors under the roof at about 75'. Another half dozen or so continues with the extension to the top. A few long draws at some choice spots will help with hard clips and rope-drag when running the route in its entirety.

A 70m rope is a must for the extension. Anything shorter and you won't make it back to the ledge.
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I sent the full Double Stout on Friday (January 23rd). Details here.

Many thanks to Darren for envisioning the line, equipping it, and opening it up. It's a fantastic addition to Clear Creek, definitely one of the better hard routes in the canyon. Jan 27, 2015
D B
Denver
 
D B   Denver
 
One of the finest and most technical climbs I've been on at Clear Creek. Felt like I was at the New. The extension looks incredible, but my shoulder started hurting just looking at the boulder problem out the roof. Nov 2, 2014
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Nice footage from a few years ago of Dave hiking the approach slab and nearly sticking the roof:
youtube.com/watch?v=diBHnOs… Jan 13, 2014
I don't believe it has been sent, although I'm not 100% about that. If it has, I'd love to hear more about it, that would be very proud!!! Nov 10, 2011
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
I heard that the DS has been sent? True or false? Sep 20, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.13b
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.13b
Thats funny, Jason. We always called that face a slab, too, but it's really hard to call it a slab when it's almost dead vertical! But compared to the massive roof above, ya it's a slab. TECHY is an understatement. Sep 17, 2010
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
Holy f*cking hard, slab climbing!!! Sep 17, 2010
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Nice job, guys! I have watched both of you come agonizingly close to doing this route, it was heartbreaking, but inspiring! Thanks Darren for opening yet another line in CCC, you've done so much for all us locals. Monty, sorry we couldn't get out before Caryn and I left, but hope to see both of you out there in the big, wide, climbing world sometime soon. Jul 1, 2010
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Congratulations on an amazing journey and sharing your experience on the site. Jun 30, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
After a lot of thought, I decided to open the extension. I will take down the red tag next time I am up there. When I bolted the Double Stout almost exactly one year ago, I gave myself one year to redpoint it before opening it up. So, I am holding to that... have at it. Thank you to those for the respect to allow my one year while it was tagged.

I have climbed everything cleanly, but I couldn't quite keep my shit together to finally put the redpoint away. I freed to the first anchors shortly after I put it up, and have trained specifically for the crux roof. I will continue to try for my personal redpoint quest, but the FFA seems like a technicality for me, at this point. I am mostly satisfied that reality matched my vision of this epic route.

I want to give huge thanks to Dave Montgomery for all the time we spent working on freeing it together, the belays, and discovering the roof beta together. Our friendship started because of this route. We each gave it more than 150 burns, in the heat, snow, dark, rain, and cold. But I have enjoyed the experience and the knowledge gained on every effort.

I am very proud how special this route turned out to be, and I hope anyone who climbs it enjoys it as much as we have! Jun 30, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.13b
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.13b
This could be one of the best single pitches in the canyon. It gives everything CCC has to offer from hard face, a big roof, sustained steep climbing and exposure. All this in 1 mega 115 ft pitch. For those just breaking into low 13s, the lower face is an excellent pitch in itself clocking in around 13a/b.

I met Darren at the base of Ten Digit the day he bolted this route, and we have since become great friends. There have been some really good times, drunk times, hard times, and some really close to sending times (doh!). It's crazy to think how we were over this route (Darren still is ;). And how cool it was to go from granny clipping every bolt to flyin' off the roof on redpoint burns. After 1 hanging this route soooo many times, I'm content with 13b A0... still 4 stars at that, too!

I'm glad this thing is open now. Jun 30, 2010