Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m) Fixed Hardware (12)
FA: Darren Mabe, 2009
Page Views: 11,711 total · 70/month
Shared By: Wiled Horse on Jun 29, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

EDIT: Double Stout is now logically split into two separate routes, the first pitch to the no hands rest under the roof, and the entire line extended over the roof.

Technical and insecure steep slab and face climbing. Start with the first few clips over a small roof of Black and Tan, and continue straight up the golden brown face. The sustained crux lasts for several more clips (preferably pre-hung). Stopping short at the anchor of Casual Gods below the roof offers an excellent 5.13- tick in itself.

Location Suggest change

Continue past Reefer Madness along the exposed ledges on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. This is the route left of Black and Tan. It starts with the first three clips of B & T and continues straight up and left. The route stays dry in the rain. If it is raining, the first bolt of B&T can provide a convenient belay bolt.

Nuts and Bolts Suggest change

8 or 9 clips get you to the anchors under the roof at about 75'. Another half dozen or so continues with the extension to the top. A few long draws at some choice spots will help with hard clips and rope-drag when running the route in its entirety.

A 70m rope is a must for the extension. Anything shorter and you won't make it back to the ledge.

Photos

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