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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 5,228 total, 33/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is similar to Hot Stuff but less sustained. The rock was very dirty when the route was established. Hours have been spent cleaning it, and yet it is still fairly dirty. There is a nice crux between the last bolt and the anchor.

Location

This is left of Hot Stuff in the middle of the Wall of the Nineties. A path leads nearly right to its base.

Protection

Now, this has 10 bolts plus anchors. Originally, this had 7 bolts.

Note, a 60m rope leaves you a bit short rappeling or TR'ing this, beware.

Photos

climbfofun
Denver Co
climbfofun   Denver Co
I thought this was a great fun route! I felt like the crux was at the second to last bolt and remained sustained to the anchors. It took me a few attempts before figuring out the sequence right at and above the second to last bolt. It was straightforward, I was just searching for something that felt easier, the move felt a bit awkward to me. The short traverse didn't seem that bad to me, the feet are there for sure. Apr 2, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
This is a great climb with the added bolts. I first did it long ago when there was three less. Jul 11, 2016
Anthony
Northern CO
  5.10b/c
Anthony   Northern CO
  5.10b/c
Good route overall. I'd give it more stars if it was more sustained, but it serves as a good warm-up for the area. Beware of some rock that might be loose lower on, and it's best if you have a 70m rope. Aug 1, 2015
Brook Wager
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b/c
Brook Wager   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b/c
Thin crimps at the top! Save some strength and get ready for the master technique with excellent, over-the-river exposure. Aug 18, 2014
A. Bandos
Broomfield
  5.10b
A. Bandos   Broomfield
  5.10b
Great route. The left to right traverse at the end always gets my heart pumping. Two cool roof sections, small slab, mostly great positive holds, and a thin ending. What more could you want? Oct 26, 2013
goingUp
over here
  5.10c
goingUp   over here
  5.10c
Fun route on great holds. The crux finish stymied me for a minute, but the holds and 'stem' traverse are there! Jun 4, 2013
georgio
  5.10c/d
georgio  
  5.10c/d
Still some lose stuff on this route, noticed a few loose holds in the middle on the way up, and kicked off a checkbook-sized rock accidentally on my way down about 20 feet from the top. I think it was off route, because I didn't see anything loose there on the way up, but there is definitely still potential for stuff to come down. Stay alert. Jul 5, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
I was informed by someone else at the crag that a hold broke on the last crux. I would say first crux goes at 10a, second, 10b and the final puzzling traverse is 10d. I have been onsighting 10d/11a for a while now, and it took me 3 tries to redpoint (granted it started raining on the second attempt). Aug 12, 2011
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
  5.10b
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
  5.10b
Fun route... spicy finish. Does make a very good warm up because of the easy start into the more difficult finish. May 16, 2011
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
 
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
 
I agree with Phil L. - this one seemed much more difficult than Hot Stuff - maybe HS fits my style better, but the top of Leftover required much more technique and focus than HS. May 14, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10c
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10c
A 60m works fine. Lands you on a ledge 5 feet up from the huge ledge.

Tougher than Hotstuff was definitely the consensus today. Jul 13, 2010
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.10a/b
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.10a/b
There is no way this climb is 5.11, although there are a couple technical moves. I climbed the line that apparently was intended by the bolts, moving left on the crux headwall to the 2nd to last bolt, then back right at the last bolt. I would say low 10, possibly harder than 10a, but not harder than 10b.

As for the X'd blocks - I did not inspect the first one closely, but it is easily avoided. However, there is an obvious thin crack in the second one right where it attaches to the wall. Regardless of whether it moves or not, I'd consider it questionable at best. Avoiding it is a touch harder than using it, but still in 5.9 land.

This is a great warmup climb IMO, as it features good climbing that progressively gets harder as you go, with an interesting crux sequence. Jul 30, 2008
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I agree with the comment about the Xs. They sounded solid and felt so. The route was clean and solid. The crux felt low 11 to me. I followed the line of bolts up to the left and then crossed to the right. It kinda looked like a crux hold is gone now. The people that followed after me felt it was 10c, but they both hung at the crux and got back on to the right. Jun 8, 2008
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
So, after approximately 3 years and 2 months, I finally climbed this route again. It has improved significantly since I first climbed it. It is much cleaner and *most* of the loose rocks are gone.

1 star and 10- seems right to me. Aug 13, 2007
Brian Frank
  5.10c/d
Brian Frank  
  5.10c/d
I think if you stay off to the left, just under the anchors the moves are 10+, but if you traverse within a few feet of HOT STUFF it's 10-.
The bolts at the top seem a bit confusing, the last bolt is off left, and the route seems to go right? Jul 16, 2006
Umph!  
Can't say the bolt placements (esp. at the crux) make much sense to me (just seems awfully contrived and at times a bit awkward). Nonetheless, it is a fun climb on good rock (as of today not dirty or loose at all).
I'd rate it a fun 5.9 if not for the 3 thin moves between the last two bolts. . . 5.10b/c and a star or two. Jul 11, 2006
Nate Oakes
  5.10b
Nate Oakes  
  5.10b
The two roofs are fun. Each roof has a large X'ed-out block just below and to the left of it, but I tried tugging on each of them and neither would budge. I weigh more than most climbers as well, so I would say ignore the X's. This is an interesting route in that it starts juggy and transitions to slab climbing, then it starts over again and ends with another slab section. Good variety for a warm-up. If you belay off the ledge, then a 60m rope is just the right length. Crux is indeed at the top, and the pro is all good as of yesterday. May 24, 2006
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Excellent route. better warm up than Hot Stuff. Getting to the last clip grazes the 5.10 mark, otherwise fun and positive 9+. Nov 12, 2005
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.10b
Slightly easier than Hot Stuff to its right. It is now mostly clean. There are 2 blocks marked with "X" but they did not move for us. A 60m rope just makes it for lowering/rapping off. Jul 6, 2005
Drew Allan
Denver/Aspen
  5.10b
Drew Allan   Denver/Aspen
  5.10b
Fun excursion on better rock than it may look. The first half is a good warm up with two fun bulges before the crux upper section. There is a loose block at the first bulge. Don't yard on it. At the top, Work left than right to finish at the anchors. Worthwhile. Jun 24, 2005
Christian Bienvenu  
  5.10c
The "dirty" comments are ridiculous. There is a little lichen in a few spots. Were not pullin' plastic in the gym. Plus, if it's too dirty, then pitch in and contribute a little by cleaning the route. Nice route, Thor, we really enjoyed it! Aug 29, 2004
Thor Kieser  
 
I added three bolts to this climb. Now it is much less run out. Enjoy - Thor Aug 1, 2004
Thor Kieser  
 
Thanks for comments, I'll continue to clean as much as I can as soon as I can

Thor Jun 12, 2004
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
To help you distinguish this line from Hot Stuff:

The bolts for this line as of 6-10-04 were very shiny. They are standard commercial hangers. The anchors are at least 15 feet lower than Hot Stuff. Jun 11, 2004
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
This route needs some thorough cleaning. There are many loose hand and foot holds that are flexing throughout the climb. I pulled off a couple nice sized holds and tossed them away from the belayer but several I couldn't get safely while on lead. This was nerve-racking since all the bolts are spaced out 10-20 feet except the ones near the 'crux', which are only a couple feet apart. The numerous loose holds are a danger to the leader and the belayer.

The climbing seemed somewhat fun, but in its current state I would give it a bomb.

casey Jun 10, 2004