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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 105 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Craig Lightburn (and possibly Mason Frischette), '70s?, George Bracksieck & Steve Sarns, 1978? Jeff Achey and Kent Lugbill, Jan. 1981?
Page Views: 9,500 total, 58/month
Shared By: Casey Bernal on May 10, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

EDIT: actually is named Roadrunner and the left crack is .30-06.

This is the right of the two distinctive cracks on the right side of the wall, the left one being ".30-06" (aka "thirty aught six"). Despite the not-so-classic parts (bird poo, loose rocks, lichen) it is a super-sexy Clear Creek classic and not to be missed. From the ledge system, start under a fixed head and work up a funky crack to the cave. If you have a big reach, you can place a good finger sized piece before committing to the moves at the fixed head. There are several questionable blocks and the gear is sometimes difficult to place, but can be solid with tricky cams, offset cams or tricky bomber nuts. One could belay at the cave, or with careful rope management one can continue up the roof section. Traverse the huge roof with bomber pro and back clean if doing it as one pitch. Clip the bolt to keep your rope out of the crack and climb the beautiful overhanging crack to the nice summit ledge. There are two old cold-shuts and one new bolt w/chain. In my opinion the crux is not the OW, but the thin crack just above.

Descent: Loose walk-off or rap with two ropes (it is possible to rap with a 60m and swing into the ledge, a 70m provides much more comfort, ! KNOT YOUR ENDS ! ).

Protection

Nuts, hexes, set of cams from micro to fist (double cams if doing it as one pitch). The crack undulates often and passive pro can be more bomber than SLCDs. A few runners. No OW pro necessary.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11-
I agree with the last comment. Lots of 10+ but no real 5.11. The 10+ moves are tiring, not many good rests, so it does feel like an 11. Jul 11, 2016
Kevin P
Loveland
 
Kevin P   Loveland
 
Sweet route that protects nice (if you can hang on to place gear). For the traverse, I kind of recycled gear to get my placements towards the exit move at the bolt. Rope drag would be hideous if you left gear way left. I could not find a discernible crux. There were no 11 moves in my opinion, just super-sustained 10+ climbing. I think the crux started at the beginning of the hand traverse and ended at the anchors. You get a little of everything. Hands, fingers, fists, and a little OW. Awesome!!! Oh, I used a double rack, including one #4 Camalot. The new anchors are well placed. Jul 23, 2015
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
Thanks for your work replacing this anchor, C. Fitch. It needed it and is appreciated. Mar 12, 2015
C Fitch  
Adam Huxley and I replaced the anchors with ASCA Hardware. Dec 26, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11-
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11-
The bird poop factor is pretty low right now except for a detritus heap atop the loose blocks. All in all, a clean route by most standards. Doing it as one pitch is pretty straightforward - place minimal gear on P1 and use long runners/back clean to prevent drag. Pretty light rack honestly. Nothing larger than a 0.5 Camalot and doubles from 0.75-#2 and a single #3 should do ya good. This is a good route, and if the feet weren't as good as they are, this thing would be splitter 5.12. Aug 17, 2014
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Excellent route! Currently has a bit of bird poop on the lower part, around the suspect stacked blocks (which are avoidable if you try). Agreed that a #4 isn't necessary. I took one and didn't place it. Starting into the roof will be more difficult for shorter people. Sep 20, 2013
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.11a
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.11a
Great route, no doubt one of the better cracks we have climbed in the Denver area. From the ground, it looks a lot wider than it was, we brought BD #4, never placed it. The move after the bolt in the roof, it could be placed there, but it seems to be in your way. May 5, 2012
GabeO
New Haven, CT
 
GabeO   New Haven, CT
 
I agree, it is totally do-able to lead as one pitch without bad rope drag or screwing the second. I've done so twice. Put your first piece in the roof as far out as you can reach from the stance, and put a 36" runner on it, and you're good. True, if your second falls, you'll have to lower them back to the ledge, but that would happen no matter what you did to protect that section.

Oh, and make sure to clip the bolt with a short draw as you turn the roof! This is key to keeping your rope from getting sucked into the crack. Mar 21, 2012
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11-
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11-
Excellent pitch. As for the "rope drag", if you use a 48" sling on both the webbing (bail tat?) under the roof, and then another 48" on your first piece in the roof; The drag should be pretty minimal.

I used 1 #4 Camalot in the wide part before the roof, and nothing smaller than a #0.5 Camalot. Aug 17, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Hmmm, maybe I can blame falling on the rope drag? I didn't really notice it, even though I did this climb as one pitch. Probably I had the 40 lbs of rope drag Shumin mentions and just thought I was being weak.... Doing it on toprope afterward was MUCH easier.

This is completely possible to lead and lower with a 60m. Just don't miss the ledge!

Fantastic roof and steep crack! The line was begging me to climb it. Jul 13, 2010
Devan Johnson
  5.10+
Devan Johnson  
  5.10+
This might be one of the top 5 crack pitches in the Front Range at the grade, a true gem. And I've never seen anyone on it.

Bomber anchors at top thanks to Darren's hard work! Apr 6, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
Most likely, Slim.
Hell, it was probably done in the '60s. Aug 17, 2009
slim    
I'm pretty sure Craig Lightburn (and possibly Mason Frischette?) climbed this in the mid '70s, as well as possibly others. It is probably the most obvious line in the canyon, and there were a few folks venturing into it during that time. Aug 17, 2009
Adrian Weaver
Buena Vista Co
Adrian Weaver   Buena Vista Co
The fixed head at the start is now gone. It fell out when my friend unclipped the the draw from it. The top half of this route is awesome! Sep 18, 2008
Aeon Aki    
FA: Jeff Achey and Kent Lugbill, Jan 1981. Royal Robbins is old, these guys would kick your ass (not that Royal Robbins wouldn't). Jun 29, 2008
reboot
.
reboot   .
Errr, tried doing this as a single pitch... and I don't recommend it. Basically, you can either screw your second with little protection on the roof traverse or give yourself rope drag from hell.

I don't know if there was a defined crux on this route, but the roof traverse has poor feet for a couple moves for shorter guys and once the roof is turned, the upper section gets pumpy (or was it because of my 40 lb rope drag?) I don't know why anybody bothered to mention the OW, cause, it ain't no OW.

There is a nut (#12 stopper?) right before turning the roof. It looks easily removable, but please don't (unless, of course, you put it there). This and the bolt help keeping the rope from getting stuck in the roof crack. Jul 6, 2007
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
 
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
 
It looks like I got the name a little off. I guess the true spelling should be: .30-06 and pronounced "thirty aught six".

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.30-0…

I guess you could use the technical name or the pronunciation. Feel free to correct it to which ever you (or the FA) wants.

This line is definitely one of my favorites in the canyon. Mar 27, 2007
Excellent line. Definitely a one pitch line with a 70m rope. Extend the two cams you'll likely place at the roof section and don't extend a runner when you clip the bolt after the roof. This will from going into the crack and keep the rope from having too much drag. Might save a #4 Camalot for the last piece before getting to the anchor. A #3 works too, but covers up the better jam. Apr 16, 2006
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
7/30/04:installed 3/8" x 3" bolt with chain (primed and painted) to existing two cold shut rap anchor. One of the two existing bolts can be spun in its hole by fingers (try it) and is sticking out 1/4" the other one is ok. Aug 2, 2004
The right hand crack is 30 aught 6, 11b and the upper pitch looks awesome. The first pitch looks like choss. The 1st pitch of Road Runner is quite good though and is more like 10-, not 11d as suggested in Rolofson's guide. Jul 7, 2003
Is 30 aught 6 one of the two cracks on the right hand side of the crag? One has a huge roof on P. 2 and the one to its left has what looks like an overhanging hand crack for its second pitch. I did the first pitch of the crack on the left up to a three piton anchor with slings and it was decent and the second looked awesome but wet...beta???, I lost my guidebook.... May 13, 2003
All this info and no mention of Thirty Aught Six. The best crack in the canyon. Jul 18, 2002