Type: Trad, 105 ft (32 m), 2 pitches
FA: Craig Lightburn (and possibly Mason Frischette), '70s?, FFA: Jim Erikson &John Behrens, early June, 1975.
Page Views: 11,819 total · 59/month
Shared By: Casey Bernal on May 10, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

EDIT: actually is named Roadrunner and the left crack is .30-06.

This is the right of the two distinctive cracks on the right side of the wall, the left one being ".30-06" (aka "thirty aught six"). Despite the not-so-classic parts (bird poo, loose rocks, lichen) it is a super-sexy Clear Creek classic and not to be missed. From the ledge system, start under a fixed head and work up a funky crack to the cave. If you have a big reach, you can place a good finger sized piece before committing to the moves at the fixed head. There are several questionable blocks and the gear is sometimes difficult to place, but can be solid with tricky cams, offset cams or tricky bomber nuts. One could belay at the cave, or with careful rope management one can continue up the roof section. Traverse the huge roof with bomber pro and back clean if doing it as one pitch. Clip the bolt to keep your rope out of the crack and climb the beautiful overhanging crack to the nice summit ledge. There are two old cold-shuts and one new bolt w/chain. In my opinion the crux is not the OW, but the thin crack just above.

Descent: Loose walk-off or rap with two ropes (it is possible to rap with a 60m and swing into the ledge, a 70m provides much more comfort, ! KNOT YOUR ENDS ! ).

Protection

Nuts, hexes, set of cams from micro to fist (double cams if doing it as one pitch). The crack undulates often and passive pro can be more bomber than SLCDs. A few runners. No OW pro necessary.

Photos