Avg: 2.7 from 7 votes
Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
|FA:||D. Mabe, August '08|
|Page Views:||4,822 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||Darren Mabe on Aug 28, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Per the rockfall mitigation project has been completed. Marked as archived / Project Status: Complete on CODOT.
Project Work Resumes Nov. 13 Following Summer Shutdown
On Tuesday, Nov. 13, crews will resume work on this project, starting with rockfall mitigation on US 6 from mile points 260 to 272. Remaining work, anticipated to be completed in April 2019, includes:
scaling rock; removing scaled rock; and installing rock reinforcement, rock anchors, mesh anchors, and 160,000 squat feet of wire mesh.
Follow the initial crack of .30-06 to the imposing roof, 10-. Powerful, dynamic, and long crux moves through the ceiling (V6-V7?) to a wild mantle (V5-V6?). I placed two protection bolts in the roof, but you still need a piece for the mantle crux at the lip. Don't blow the second clip in the roof.
Once over the lip, a bolt (there is an old useless 'mystery' bolt above the roof, skip this one and clip the new one) protects an exposed traverse into the fingers/thin-hands crux of Roadrunner finishing with wide hand crack to the anchors, 10+.
Do what you can to minimize rope drag as the zigs and zags weigh you down.
Disclaimer: Crux moves rating is height-dependent. Maybe more like 5.12e. For crude comparison sake, I think the roof moves are considerably harder than Great Escape, Brennivin, Mighty Dog, and Rocketman. This is the hardest mixed line in the canyon.
Much thanks to Casey for his belays on my initial exploratory efforts, and patience while I drilled the bolts and worked the moves. Thanks to Mel for her belays on my redpoint attempts. And thanks to Adam for the silky belay and encouragement on my final redpoint.
Two protection bolts in the ceiling, as there is no clean pro until the lip. Another new bolt above the lip to link to the crack.
Lower off with a 70m rope.