Type: Trad, 115 ft Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: D. Mabe, August '08
Page Views: 4,512 total · 35/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Aug 28, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

Wiled Horses gone free! This is a link-up/variation that climbs the first half of .30-06, through a 15' ceiling, to the second half of Roadrunner.

Follow the initial crack of .30-06 to the imposing roof, 10-. Powerful, dynamic, and long crux moves through the ceiling (V6-V7?) to a wild mantle (V5-V6?). I placed two protection bolts in the roof, but you still need a piece for the mantle crux at the lip. Don't blow the second clip in the roof.

Once over the lip, a bolt (there is an old useless 'mystery' bolt above the roof, skip this one and clip the new one) protects an exposed traverse into the fingers/thin-hands crux of Roadrunner finishing with wide hand crack to the anchors, 10+.

Do what you can to minimize rope drag as the zigs and zags weigh you down.

Disclaimer: Crux moves rating is height-dependent. Maybe more like 5.12e. For crude comparison sake, I think the roof moves are considerably harder than Great Escape, Brennivin, Mighty Dog, and Rocketman. This is the hardest mixed line in the canyon.

Much thanks to Casey for his belays on my initial exploratory efforts, and patience while I drilled the bolts and worked the moves. Thanks to Mel for her belays on my redpoint attempts. And thanks to Adam for the silky belay and encouragement on my final redpoint.

Location

Wall of the '90s, far right side.

Protection

Stoppers, #0.3 up to #2 Camalot, and two #3 Camalots for the upper crack. Back up the shitty ring pin for your first piece off the ground. There is one other pin midway up the initial crack.

Two protection bolts in the ceiling, as there is no clean pro until the lip. Another new bolt above the lip to link to the crack.

Lower off with a 70m rope.

Photos