Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 115 ft Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: D. Mabe, August '08
Page Views: 4,287 total · 37/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Aug 28, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Wiled Horses gone free! This is a link-up/variation that climbs the first half of .30-06, through a 15' ceiling, to the second half of Roadrunner.

Follow the initial crack of .30-06 to the imposing roof, 10-. Powerful, dynamic, and long crux moves through the ceiling (V6-V7?) to a wild mantle (V5-V6?). I placed two protection bolts in the roof, but you still need a piece for the mantle crux at the lip. Don't blow the second clip in the roof.

Once over the lip, a bolt (there is an old useless 'mystery' bolt above the roof, skip this one and clip the new one) protects an exposed traverse into the fingers/thin-hands crux of Roadrunner finishing with wide hand crack to the anchors, 10+.

Do what you can to minimize rope drag as the zigs and zags weigh you down.

Disclaimer: Crux moves rating is height-dependent. Maybe more like 5.12e. For crude comparison sake, I think the roof moves are considerably harder than Great Escape, Brennivin, Mighty Dog, and Rocketman. This is the hardest mixed line in the canyon.

Much thanks to Casey for his belays on my initial exploratory efforts, and patience while I drilled the bolts and worked the moves. Thanks to Mel for her belays on my redpoint attempts. And thanks to Adam for the silky belay and encouragement on my final redpoint.

Location

Wall of the '90s, far right side.

Protection

Stoppers, #0.3 up to #2 Camalot, and two #3 Camalots for the upper crack. Back up the shitty ring pin for your first piece off the ground. There is one other pin midway up the initial crack.

Two protection bolts in the ceiling, as there is no clean pro until the lip. Another new bolt above the lip to link to the crack.

Lower off with a 70m rope.

Photos

SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
Poop conditions are pretty reasonable right now. Mostly it's like 10 feet of easier climbing after the last piton getting set up under the roof and there are non poopy areas that you can use for holds. A little dirty in general through that part but it would clean up with traffic or a good brushing. Once on the roof you're home...er poop-free. Jan 21, 2013
Tank Evans  
 
Right on Darren, those two climbs to the left do look good, just need to wait till things cool off. Aug 23, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Wow, those swallows must have been eating well. Tank, those two cracks do not get climbed much (star quality of them heavily dependent on poo conditions), and you are probably only the third person that has even tried the WH link. Cool that you checked it out! When I put up the var., I did clean much of the poo off the lower 10- crack of .30-06, but that was 3 years ago.

The boulder problem roof of WH probably felt soft for you at 13-, but at the time I thought it seemed about right. The bats must be new, because I don't remember seeing any bats anywhere on the right side of that wall. While you are over there, you should try Double Stout or Black and Tan for somethin' a tad more sustained at the grade. ;)

EDIT: There are only a few established harder trad/mixed routes in CCC: .30-06 (11d/12a), Wiled Horses (12e), Brennvin (12c/d), and Naked Kill (12d). Of which I personally think the latter two are better quality. Check 'em out! Aug 23, 2011
Tank Evans  
 
Maybe the first assentionist brought a pooper-scooper up there, but currently this route sucks. Climb fun 5.11- to where WH diverges, then begin to climb through loads of bird and bat shit to a no hands under the roof. Boulder out the roof on bolts with only 1 difficult move, then awkwardly mantle onto the face and begin having fun again.

I do not know if it is one of the hardest mixed climbs in the canyon, but it certainly is the worst. Aug 21, 2011
Pumped for you, Darren!!! Now go send "Glory" bro!!! I'm more than pumped to go hit that one with you again man. Oh yea... we should video your new F.A. man. Nice send!! Might check it out this weekend.. if this crap weather goes away.

Luke Childers Oct 30, 2009
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
5.13 trad? That's sick Darren. Nice work, bro.

Now get back to work. Nov 11, 2008
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
Sweet send, congrats! Sep 26, 2008
Cassidy Hill  
 
A gymnastic and inspired rock climb. Great vision by the FA. You may just feel enticed and then trapped by this sick roof, and you are going to have to get crafty if you want to set these horses free! Sep 4, 2008
Sick, Darren! Nice work, buddy! Aug 29, 2008