Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: R. Laird and C. Laird (10/08)
Page Views: 7,260 total, 65/month
Shared By: ryan laird on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


250 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

As the 1990 movie suggests, she’s a little dirty and rough around the edges, but she will clean up to be a keeper. Begin at the base of a small, black roof adjacent to the start of Hey Good Lookin’. Trend left towards a small, right-facing dihedral and continue up past a series of slabby ledge systems to a broad ledge below a second right-facing dihedral. Surmount the dihedral and launch into the pumpy, jug haul trending left out the roof. Above the roof, catch your breath and cut right to the new anchors.

Location

This is right of Hot Stuff.

Protection

She always uses protection and is well-protected with 13 bolts. The anchor is two cold shuts approximately 3 feet left and below the lower anchor of Hey Good Lookin'’. The route has been thoroughly cleaned for loose rocks, but the belayer should be aware of the potential for additional small rockfall.

Photos

Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
 
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
 
At the slab, stay on the bolt line for the best line. Looks like most people bust out right to the jugs. Mar 24, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
I did not notice many loose holds today. Big jugs but steep! Jul 11, 2016
Taketaketaketaketake ....take
Colorado Springs
 
Taketaketaketaketake ....take   Colorado Springs
 
Thought this was a much better route than the three other 10s I climbed at this wall. Mar 21, 2016
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.10b
I replaced the coldshuts at the anchor with stainless hangers and rings. Not sure why coldshuts are still being used on modern routes. Thanks to the BCC for the anchor chains, please think about donating at boulderclimbers.org/support… Dec 5, 2015
Found a draw hanging on one of the lower bolts here today. If it's yours, tell me the type, and I'll return it. Aug 11, 2015
drewhouser  
 
All the "critical" holds seem to be solid as a rock. ;) If you are grabbing at loose stuff...stop it. Sep 15, 2014
A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
Rock seemed solid to us. We made the mistake of lowering the second to clean it. Definitely awkward. Rap to clean. May 10, 2014
Metty  
Climbed this today, and saw three or four critical holds right under the roof were about to pop off. Be careful. May 6, 2014
Jeremy C
Golden, CO
  5.10a/b
Jeremy C   Golden, CO
  5.10a/b
Seems pretty clean now under the roof. Really fun movements on ridiculously good jugs through the roof traverse section. Oct 13, 2013
Chad Volk
Arvada, CO
Chad Volk   Arvada, CO
Pulled off an 8" rock out of the roof section today while warming up. Luckily, I was able to catch it and keep it from braining someone at the base. Stay safe out there. Aug 31, 2013
Jonny Hart
Boulder, CO
Jonny Hart   Boulder, CO
There's a softball-size block directly under the roof ready to blow out if pulled on hard (chalked). Keep right on crimper and work past left, good to go after, solid juggy holds through the roof 10-, Mar 15, 2013
Chip Loomis
  5.10a
Chip Loomis  
  5.10a
The route seems to be cleaned up. Only noticed one loose rock in the juggy top section, but it is small and avoidable (has an X). Feb 25, 2012
Count Chockula
Littleton, CO
 
Count Chockula   Littleton, CO
 
Not sure where all the sketchy rock is...seemed pretty solid to me, even around the roof. Maybe I was just so focused on the biz I didn't notice (or grab) the "chossy" holds.

For me, the crux is the move out left and then slightly up to make the clip above the roof. I cranked it cleanly on my onsight attempt not two weeks ago, but yesterday I took a 20+ footer after moving too far left. Spent too much time milking the "rest" under the roof move. I couldn't quite get set up to make the clip above the roof. The holds are all there, I just botched it. It was by far the longest fall I have ever taken. Came out with only a nasty rope abrasion on my lower leg. Aug 26, 2011
Kirsten KDog
  5.10a
Kirsten KDog  
  5.10a
This route is really fun with good movement; however, the roof section and the few moves after it are riddled with sketchy stone. Be very careful about what you are yarding on in the roof (and make sure you're belayer is being attentive in that section too for their own sake!!). It'd get 3 stars for sure if it weren't for that choss. Nov 1, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.9
This is a great route and serves as a nice warmup for some of the harder routes. I thought the other 10a to the left is not nearly as good as a warmup. This one has more continuous and juggy moves through the upper section.

With that said, I also felt like I was tiptoeing through a minefield in the roof section. There is one hold marked with an x that I started to grab but let off once I saw the x. Definitely avoid that hold - it's about to go. Oct 8, 2010
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.10b
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.10b
Good route, a little loose rock at the roof, but much better than before. Necessary holds are solid. Does anyone know why there is a small bell tied to the first bolt with a red ribbon? Aug 30, 2010
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
A few weeks ago I pulled a hold right before the roof and just before I clipped the bolt. Ended up falling 2 bolts down onto the ledge before the roof. I climbed back up to the roof just paranoid, everything looks fractured (probably not but in the moment it sure felt like it), consider a helmet leading this one. Apr 20, 2010
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
A really fun climb with some thought provoking, enjoyable moves. The climb definitely needs a little cleaning. Some of the holds are going to come off in the near future, including the jug just past the slabby section and the 3rd or 4th bolt. When that one comes off, that section may become the crux and it will likely be a harder climb. Jul 26, 2009
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.10a
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.10a
Fun route! Definitely needs to clean up a bit but should do so nicely.... Crux to me (and others today) was not the roof but an awkward sequence around the 7th or 8th bolt. HUGE jugs thru the roof section! Nov 18, 2008