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Elevation: 6,621 ft 2,018 m
GPS: 39.7388, -105.3222
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 258,881 total · 906/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a fantastic crag with a short, steep, somewhat slippery approach. A host of excellent climbs reside here, most being in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. The guidebook doesn't lie in saying that this is some of the best rock in the canyon. Reefer Madness, Recovery, Wet Dream... climb any one of 'em and you'll agree! The climbs can be long here, but a single 60m rope will work for most; knot the ends if in doubt.

Just uphill (to the left) are the crags, The Monkey House and Death Rock.

Getting There Suggest change

Get to US 6 (the wall is nearer the Golden end of the canyon). The crag is immediately west of Tunnel 2 (5.1 miles west of Tunnel 1). There is a sizeable pullout on the south side of the highway. There's plenty of room to park, but because of all the scree above, the closer you park to the base of the hill, the more likely you are to go home with a crater in your hood. Follow one of two paths up to the base of the wall. There are a few markers you can use to get oriented: On the right side of the wall, there is a large eye bolt at the base of Reefer Madness. In the central region, there is a belay bolt at the base of Recovery & Foxy. Of the climbs on the left end, Hey Good Lookin' is the line that goes out the leftmost big roof crack.

L->R:

Suggest change
A. Alone Time with my Banana, 6 PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
B. Leftover Stuff, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
C. Hot Stuff, 10, 1p, 135', bolts.
D. Pretty Woman, 10-, 1p, 95', bolts.
E1. 7-Minute Abs, 14, 1p, 120', bolts.
E2. Hey Good Lookin', 11+, 1p, 140', bolts.
F. Squeezing in a bit of Texas, 11-, 1p, TR.
G. Vixen, 11-, 1p, bolts.
above G. Harlot, 13+, 1p, 110', bolts.
above G. Hellcat, 14-, 1p, 115', bolts.
H. Y2K, 12, 1p, 120', bolts.
I. Slinky, 12+, 1p.
IH. Extension Goin' The Distance, 12+, 1p, 130', bolts.
J. Sweet Thing, 13, 1p, 140', bolts.
K. Recovery, 10+, 1p, ~100', bolts.
L. Foxy, 11 PG-13, 1p, <100', bolts.
M. Little Kitten, 10 PG-13, 1p, bolts.
above M. Slender Babe, 12+, 1p, bolts.
N. Curvaceous, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Wet Dream, 12-, 1p, 105', bolts.
P. Centerfold, 11-, 2p, 120', bolts.
Q1. Ten Digit Dialing, 12+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q2. Reefer Madness, 11-, 1p, bolts.
above Q2. Porn Queen, 11+, 1p, 100', bolts.
RQ2. Stone Free, 11, 1p, bolts.
above R or Q2. Casual Stone, 11, bolts.
above R or Q2. Creekside Prophet, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.
S. Casual Gods, 11, 1p, gear.
T. Double Stout to 1st anchors, 13-, 1p, bolts. Above Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout): 14-, 115', bolts.
U. Back and Tan, 13-, 1p, bolts.
V. .30-06, 11, 1p, gear.
VX. Wiled Horses, 13-, 1p, 115', gear & bolts.
W. American Mustang, 14-, 1p, 115', bolts.
X. Roadrunner, 11-, 1p, gear.
YX. Mission Plausible, 14-, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
Y. Mission Impossible, 14, 1p, 90', bolts.
YZ. Mission Overdrive, 14-, 1p, 70', bolts.
Z. Interstellar Overdrive, 13+, 1p, bolts.

The Strange Iron Handle, location?

37 Total Climbs

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Location: Wall of the '90s Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wall of the '90s

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 407
Centerfold
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 556
Pretty Woman
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 572
Hot Stuff
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 910
Reefer Madness
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 86
Roadrunner
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 653
Curvaceous
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 459
Wet Dream
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 54
.30-06
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 404
Ten-Digit Dialing
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 28
Double Stout
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 16
Interstellar Overdrive
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 6
Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA…
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 19
Hellcat
Sport
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
 6
Mission Overdrive
Sport
5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
 9
Mission Impossible
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Centerfold
 407
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Pretty Woman
 556
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hot Stuff
 572
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Reefer Madness
 910
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Roadrunner
 86
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Curvaceous
 653
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Wet Dream
 459
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
.30-06
 54
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Ten-Digit Dialing
 404
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Double Stout
 28
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Interstellar Overdrive
 16
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Double Stout (w/ extension,…
 6
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Hellcat
 19
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Mission Overdrive
 6
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b Sport
Mission Impossible
 9
5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b Sport
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