Elevation: 6,621 ft
GPS: 39.739, -105.322 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 194,707 total · 807/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fantastic crag with a short, steep, somewhat slippery approach. A host of excellent climbs reside here, most being in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. The guidebook doesn't lie in saying that this is some of the best rock in the canyon. Reefer Madness, Recovery, Wet Dream... climb any one of 'em and you'll agree! The climbs can be long here, but a single 60m rope will work for most; knot the ends if in doubt.

Just uphill (to the left) are the crags, The Monkey House and Death Rock.

Getting There

Get to US 6 (the wall is nearer the Golden end of the canyon). The crag is immediately west of Tunnel 2 (5.1 miles west of Tunnel 1). There is a sizeable pullout on the south side of the highway. There's plenty of room to park, but because of all the scree above, the closer you park to the base of the hill, the more likely you are to go home with a crater in your hood. Follow one of two paths up to the base of the wall. There are a few markers you can use to get oriented: On the right side of the wall, there is a large eye bolt at the base of Reefer Madness. In the central region, there is a belay bolt at the base of Recovery & Foxy. Of the climbs on the left end, Hey Good Lookin' is the line that goes out the leftmost big roof crack.

L->R:

A. Alone Time with my Banana, 6 PG-13, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
B. Leftover Stuff, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
C. Hot Stuff, 10, 1p, 135', bolts.
D. Pretty Woman, 10-, 1p, 95', bolts.
E1. 7-Minute Abs, 14, 1p, 120', bolts.
E2. Hey Good Lookin', 11+, 1p, 140', bolts.
F. Squeezing in a bit of Texas, 11-, 1p, TR.
G. Vixen, 11-, 1p, bolts.
above G. Harlot, 13+, 1p, 110', bolts.
above G. Hellcat, 14-, 1p, 115', bolts.
H. Y2K, 12, 1p, 120', bolts.
I. Slinky, 12+, 1p.
IH. Extension Goin' The Distance, 12+, 1p, 130', bolts.
J. Sweet Thing, 13, 1p, 140', bolts.
K. Recovery, 10+, 1p, ~100', bolts.
L. Foxy, 11 PG-13, 1p, <100', bolts.
M. Little Kitten, 10 PG-13, 1p, bolts.
above M. Slender Babe, 12+, 1p, bolts.
N. Curvaceous, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
O. Wet Dream, 12-, 1p, 105', bolts.
P. Centerfold, 11-, 2p, 120', bolts.
Q1. Ten Digit Dialing, 12+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q2. Reefer Madness, 11-, 1p, bolts.
above Q2. Porn Queen, 11+, 1p, 100', bolts.
RQ2. Stone Free, 11, 1p, bolts.
above R or Q2. Casual Stone, 11, bolts.
above R or Q2. Creekside Prophet, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.
S. Casual Gods, 11, 1p, gear.
T. Double Stout to 1st anchors, 13-, 1p, bolts. Above Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout): 14-, 115', bolts.
U. Back and Tan, 13-, 1p, bolts.
V. .30-06, 11, 1p, gear.
VX. Wiled Horses, 13-, 1p, 115', gear & bolts.
W. American Mustang, 14-, 1p, 115', bolts.
X. Roadrunner, 11-, 1p, gear.
YX. Mission Plausible, 14-, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
Y. Mission Impossible, 14, 1p, 90', bolts.
YZ. Mission Overdrive, 14-, 1p, 70', bolts.
Z. Interstellar Overdrive, 13+, 1p, bolts.

The Strange Iron Handle, location?

37 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Wall of the '90s Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wall of the '90s

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 424
Pretty Woman
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 347
Centerfold
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 456
Hot Stuff
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 340
Leftover Stuff
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 356
Little Kitten
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 194
Vixen
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 182
Recovery
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 154
Foxy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 721
Reefer Madness
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 67
Roadrunner
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 478
Curvaceous
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 98
Hey Good Lookin'
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 353
Wet Dream
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 329
Ten-Digit Dialing
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 63
Y2K
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pretty Woman
 424
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Centerfold
 347
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Hot Stuff
 456
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Leftover Stuff
 340
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Little Kitten
 356
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Vixen
 194
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Recovery
 182
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Foxy
 154
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Reefer Madness
 721
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Roadrunner
 67
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Curvaceous
 478
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Hey Good Lookin'
 98
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wet Dream
 353
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ten-Digit Dialing
 329
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Y2K
 63
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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