Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (7)
FA: L. Hamilton and S. Weaver, FFA J.Achey, K.Lugbill
Page Views: 6,657 total, 40/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Apr 26, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

EDIT: this is actually is named .30-06, and the right crack is Roadrunner.

This is the left crack of the two classic crack routes on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. The route is typically done in one pitch although breaking it up into two can lighten the rack if it's your first time on it (about 110' total).

Work up a few crack systems of varied sizes (.10-), with several rests to the optional pin cluster belay. Back up these pins, because they are between a few scary blocks (and they are probably 30 years old...). There used to be a webbing nest at these anchors for rapping, but I removed a couple of the loose pins awhile ago, along with the webbing and would not recommend using this anchor as a rap anchor.

EDIT: there is no fixed pin-tat-bail-anchor as of 8/6/08.

Traverse left underneath the big roof and fire up to the crux. (FYI, from the stance underneath the roof, you can escape left to the top anchors of Black and Tan.) The sporty crux (.12a) is protected by a few pins and then continues up the *steep* crack (.10+/.11-) thin hands, hands, fist. The pin at the crux held several of my falls, and was backed up by a bomber nut. The route ends at a two bolt rap anchor (where the three bad pins and UV-eaten sling used to be -- replaced with consent from FA). You can BARELY rap back to the ledges with a 60m, although I would suggest lowering each other.

There are not many other harder, trad lines in Clear Creek, other than Brennivin and Naked Kill. I think other climbers would agree that this is the CCC of CCC ('Country Club Crack' of Clear Creek Canyon).

Protection

Set of stoppers (#6-#12), Set of Aliens, #0.5, (2)#0.75, (2)#1, #2, #3, #3.5/#4 Camalots. Several old pins scatter the route, clip them with caution. QDs, runners. 2 bolt rap anchor.
70m rope.
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Those seeking "Guaranteed-injury-free-climbing" should probably stay in bed. Sep 4, 2017
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12a
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12a
I tested the crux pin with a hammer, and it's solid but was a tad loose. You can back it up with a small offset cam, but it's not a bomber placement. Long term, a bolt placed a bit higher than the pin would be ideal and ensure injury free climbing. Sep 2, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
The headwall tight hands splitter is on par with CCC in terms of quality (minus the bird excrement).

I would add a small offset cam or two to back up the crux pin. A purple-blue offset Mastercam should fit perfectly. There are some offset nut placements to the left side which look good but might pop out as you climb above. The crux piton was solid yesterday. I whipped on it a number of times. Mar 7, 2016
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
 
Nick Schlichtman   Golden, CO
 
Still pretty new to the area, so may not be qualified to say, but this has got to be one of the better crack climbs in the immediate Front Range! A super fun and sporty sequence halfway up gives you a break between all the bomber jamming. A really nice, long pitch. Feb 28, 2016
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
5.12
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
5.12
The pin at the crux is good, I whipped all over that thing. Aug 1, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
I think the rating depends on the recent bird activity in the area. If it's poopy..., 12a or maybe harder (depends on your tolerance). If it's clean, 11+ seems totally fair. With that said, it might be best to climb this route in the early spring, since the pigeons are just coming back and it had the winter to get cleansed with snow.

Great route. Apr 12, 2011
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
Lots and lots and lots and lots of poop. Would it be better to climb this when the birds are gone or after a month straight of rain? Maybe. Lots of poopie. Fun route. Jul 27, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Last night I removed the bail slings and a of the 4 they were connected to. There is only one pin there now. It is solid and had a good ring sound to it. You can back it up with a bomber #8 stopper as well. It is pretty scary this rap anchor was trusted for so long. The ring pin had a crack in it and broke off with a couple hits. The knifeblade was loose and in a hollow sounding block. These pins may be almost 40 years old!

I will not replace these pins; you can get bomber gear in these spots. There does not need to be a fixed anchor at this spot anyway. The route goes well as one pitch (lower off with a 70m from bolt anchors at the top of the crack). If you want to avoid the crux and upper half of the route, you can traverse left under the roof to the Black and Tan anchors.

The protection pins on the rest of the route are still intact and can also be backed up with bomber gear.


Thanks! Hope no one minds. Aug 6, 2008
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
  5.12-
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
  5.12-
I watched someone nail up this route 9/15/07. Please do not pound pins in this route or any other established free climb.

Please practice iron-work on any of the multiple road cuts and unknown crags, or aid it cleanly. Sep 16, 2007
reboot
.
reboot   .
And Rolofson reversed the name on the newer edition of the guide book. FWIW. Jul 6, 2007
Lots of bird crap on this one. Also, try doing it in the shade. It felt really greasy in the sun. Apr 16, 2006
Rolofson's guide calls out Roadrunner (.11d/.12a) as left crack and 30.06 (.11-) as right crack. FWIW. Apr 30, 2004
Kent Lugbill  
 
I think that the names Road Runner and 30.06 are reversed. I was with Jeff Achey (around 1980) when he free climbed what is now considered to be Roadrunner. He called it 30.06 because somebody was shooting a rifle nearby while we were climbing. Jeff lead it without trouble and called it 5.11. The crack on the right used to be called Roadrunner (now called 30.06) was climbed often in the 70s and 80s. These routes are both great regardless of what you call them. Apr 29, 2004
Roadrunner has a 2 bolt rap anchor instead of the 3 old pins. Much appreciated. Apr 2, 2004
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
I'm pretty sure the left-hand crack is Roadrunner. The roof above the slings goes at 12a and the handcrack above it is easier (although pumpy after the strenuous crux). I don't know what the rt.-hand crack is. They're the best lines on that wall though, in my worthless opinion; everything else is kinda weak and overgraded. May 15, 2003
Historical note: Steve Weaver and I aided a line on this wall (Roadrunner, I believe; possibly the FA) on July 20, 1969 -- the day Neil Armstrong first stepped on the moon. I like the "Wall of the 90's" name, which for me carries a bit of hidden humor. Feb 24, 2003