Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jennifer Crawford, bolted by Mike C.
Page Views: 6,906 total · 39/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


115 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

This is the farthest left route on Wall of the '90s. Start about 30' uphill from the Hot Stuff ledge. This may be one of the best 5.6s in the canyon (if not the only one). It is surprisingly great and clean stone and all jugs. It is bolted well for the grade.

Protection

6 bolts & two bolt lowering anchor on a good ledge.

Photos

Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
Great climb for a beginner to toprope. A little runout for the 5.6 leader, though. Jul 30, 2008
Jason Gilbert
Lakewood
  5.7
Jason Gilbert   Lakewood
  5.7
Good climb, nice quick access if you're in a hurry or have a short day. It felt harder than 5.6 (Maybe 5.7) but it had been raining and the water streak 3/4 the way up was flowing pretty good. A lot of the holds near the water are slimy right now. Apr 27, 2009
Climb on jugs that are still good when wet. Jul 6, 2009
Kevin Cossel
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Kevin Cossel   Boulder, CO
  5.6
This is a nice, easy sport lead for a competent 5.9 follower, and thus a good intro lead for those people. I think that the R rating in the guidebook pertains to 5.6/5.7 level climbers (because of a 10-15 foot runout between bolts 2 and 3, this is protectable with a cam to the right if desired). After the last bolt, staying right is easier than heading left -- the anchors are directly above you but not visible.

Also, the route is a good practice for learning trad. I was able to find nice gear placements (several stoppers up to about #6 and cams up to #3 Camalot) throughout most of the route, but beginning trad leaders can also clip any of the bolts if necessary. Aug 23, 2009
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7 PG13
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.7 PG13
I think this is pretty runout for the novice leader. You need a long runner if you set some gear between 2-3. There's also a good horizontal for a yellow Alien (orange TCU) above the 4th bolt which makes heading into the steeper terrain a little more palatable. I give it a 5.7, because it's fairly steep towards the top with a slopey topout. Aug 12, 2011
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
Hiro Protagonist   Colorado
You already know this route is runout, esp for someone expecting 5.6 leading! If you are not a beginner leader and have solid nerves, you'll be fine. This route might be described as too scary for someone trying to lead easy routes and uninteresting to everybody else.

Both myself and the girl climbing with me found it uninteresting - perhaps too uninteresting to risk falling and hurting yourself. Very interested to go back and try using it to place gear though! Aug 25, 2012
Kirstyn Leuner
Norwich, VT
  5.6
Kirstyn Leuner   Norwich, VT
  5.6
This would be really heady for a brand new leader! Oct 13, 2013
Snow Lily
Golden
Snow Lily   Golden
Wow, very nice climb. For the meek, as I am, it's a little scary due to bold spacing combined with the steepness. Oct 5, 2014
John Torkelson
Denver, CO
John Torkelson   Denver, CO
The last bolt before the anchors is spinning. Jul 18, 2015
Theodore Morrow
Golden, Co
  5.6
Theodore Morrow   Golden, Co
  5.6
My first ever lead climb, it was unbelievably scary at the time.... The route is super blocky, so if you fall, high chance of injuring an ankle. Not hard but as a beginner leader a bit scary. Feb 18, 2016
Vaughn
Colorado
Vaughn   Colorado
The FA on this belongs to Jennifer Crawford. Mike C. and she bolted it for her 30th birthday. Apr 13, 2018