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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike C.
Page Views: 6,183 total, 39/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the farthest left route on Wall of the '90s. Start about 30' uphill from the Hot Stuff ledge. This may be one of the best 5.6s in the canyon (if not the only one). It is surprisingly great and clean stone and all jugs. It is bolted well for the grade.

Protection

6 bolts & two bolt lowering anchor on a good ledge.

Photos

Theodore Morrow
Golden, Co
  5.6
Theodore Morrow   Golden, Co
  5.6
My first ever lead climb, it was unbelievably scary at the time.... The route is super blocky, so if you fall, high chance of injuring an ankle. Not hard but as a beginner leader a bit scary. Feb 18, 2016
The last bolt before the anchors is spinning. Jul 18, 2015
Snow Lily
Golden
Snow Lily   Golden
Wow, very nice climb. For the meek, as I am, it's a little scary due to bold spacing combined with the steepness. Oct 5, 2014
Kirstyn Leuner
Norwich, VT
  5.6
Kirstyn Leuner   Norwich, VT
  5.6
This would be really heady for a brand new leader! Oct 13, 2013
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
You already know this route is runout, esp for someone expecting 5.6 leading! If you are not a beginner leader and have solid nerves, you'll be fine. This route might be described as too scary for someone trying to lead easy routes and uninteresting to everybody else.

Both myself and the girl climbing with me found it uninteresting - perhaps too uninteresting to risk falling and hurting yourself. Very interested to go back and try using it to place gear though! Aug 25, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7 PG13
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.7 PG13
I think this is pretty runout for the novice leader. You need a long runner if you set some gear between 2-3. There's also a good horizontal for a yellow Alien (orange TCU) above the 4th bolt which makes heading into the steeper terrain a little more palatable. I give it a 5.7, because it's fairly steep towards the top with a slopey topout. Aug 12, 2011
Kevin Cossel
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Kevin Cossel   Boulder, CO
  5.6
This is a nice, easy sport lead for a competent 5.9 follower, and thus a good intro lead for those people. I think that the R rating in the guidebook pertains to 5.6/5.7 level climbers (because of a 10-15 foot runout between bolts 2 and 3, this is protectable with a cam to the right if desired). After the last bolt, staying right is easier than heading left -- the anchors are directly above you but not visible.

Also, the route is a good practice for learning trad. I was able to find nice gear placements (several stoppers up to about #6 and cams up to #3 Camalot) throughout most of the route, but beginning trad leaders can also clip any of the bolts if necessary. Aug 23, 2009
Climb on jugs that are still good when wet. Jul 6, 2009
Jason Gilbert
Lakewood
  5.7
Jason Gilbert   Lakewood
  5.7
Good climb, nice quick access if you're in a hurry or have a short day. It felt harder than 5.6 (Maybe 5.7) but it had been raining and the water streak 3/4 the way up was flowing pretty good. A lot of the holds near the water are slimy right now. Apr 27, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
Great climb for a beginner to toprope. A little runout for the 5.6 leader, though. Jul 30, 2008