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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 135 ft Fixed Hardware (13)
FA: Richard Wright & Alan Nelson, 1996
Page Views: 10,027 total, 49/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Hot Stuff may be the best warm up route on the Wall of The '90s. It follows a line left of the great roof system and is belayed off a large, flat ledge.

Facing west, this is a perfect place to climb, to tan, or just dig the traffic flowing endlessly up Clear Creek. If you listen carefully you can just hear the loose change clanging in all of the pockets heading up to Black Hawk.

Hot Stuff is never more than vertical, and for the most part offers great edge climbing with a lot of continuity. An awkward, little pillar presents the only conceptual problem at about 65 feet. Hang a bit right, and swim up on excellent holds with good feet. The technical crux follows shortly and is mostly thin and a bit committing, but the pro is great and the creep factor minimal.

Three stars for quality climbing, well bolted, with lots of continuity.

Protection

QDs only. At 130 to 140 feet, Hot Stuff is a long route for a sport climb. Take 16 or so draws and something for the double-bolt anchor at the top.

Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: an anchor was added at the point that is roughly even with the Leftover Stuff anchor and should be usable for people with 60m ropes. It is located a good 20' below the existing anchor. A distinct effort was made to get the anchor as low as possible without putting it right in the middle of the crux, but there were limitations in finding solid rock for the anchor site.

What was a situation where double ropes were STRONGLY recommended since there was no mid-point anchor has been ameliorated in 2009. Still, be careful!

Eds. In 2015, the 1996 original bolts were replaced with 1/2" Powers bolts, thanks to Dave & Lisa Montgomery. Thanks!

Warning

Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: The monster death cookie (4' x 2' x 2') by the belay is now gone. It yielded easily with just a lift to the end and then quickly dropped under its 300 or so lbs. of weight. Thanks to Derek Lawrence for spotting and keeping people away.

Also, per Alex R, the 5th bolt pulls out 1/4". Be careful!

Photos

Kellon Spencer
Tempe, Arizona
Kellon Spencer   Tempe, Arizona
Just jumped on this today. The 5th bolt is still rotating out of the wall. I attempted to tighten it, but I think it might be stripped and will eventually work its way back out. Nov 14, 2017
Alex R
Golden
Alex R   Golden
5th bolt was very loose. I tightened it down as much as I could by hand. The bolt had also pulled a quarter inch out from the wall. Sep 16, 2017
evan h
Denver, CO
  5.10b
evan h   Denver, CO
  5.10b
Monty, thanks for your efforts on this. This route has been on my mental to-do list of dodgy bolts. I climbed this yesterday and immediately noticed the new bomber hardware! Dec 12, 2015
Monty,

Thanks for all the hard work! Dec 8, 2015
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.10b
My wife Lisa and I replaced all of the bolts (except the low first bolt that does nothing) with 1/2" stainless steel Power bolts. The majority of the holes were reused.



Dec 5, 2015
Phil Esra
  5.10a/b
Phil Esra  
  5.10a/b
"May be the best warm up route on the Wall of The '90s" - Ha! This description is such a self-deprecating "quality sandbag." This is a brilliant climb--one of those rare lines whose easiness does not detract from the experience in any way. The only thing that makes it a "warm up" is that the bolts are quite far apart on the easiest sections, sometimes over ledgy terrain. May 29, 2015
Brook Wager
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b/c
Brook Wager   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b/c
Nice relaxed start; pull hard on large jugs over the first roof; the crux is the column midway up, and trust that crimper on the midface - it's quite positive. Heel hook around the R of the column perhaps - it stays steep and pumpy. Overall, this is an endurance route. Aug 18, 2014
Kirstyn Leuner
Norwich, VT
  5.10b
Kirstyn Leuner   Norwich, VT
  5.10b
If you're short, you may feel a little sketched hanging a draw on the first bolt after the bottom slab. It's always reachy and a bit awkward, and I've done this route many times. Oct 13, 2013
jmapping
Carbondale, co
 
jmapping   Carbondale, co
 
Can a moderator please update the description for this climb to include the addition of the low anchor that was added to this climb in 2009. Also, can't we delete a bunch of these comments dating back to 2001 talking about issues that have been solved (i.e. needing a second rope and the death block that was removed)? May 21, 2011
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
This felt very easy. Big and positive holds all the way. Frequent rests. The last moves at the top to the new anchor on the right seemed to be the crux for me, but even there you are in balance, and just have to figure things out. Much easier than Left Over Stuff for me. Nov 10, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10b
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10b
Someone must have added a midway convenient anchor. Perfectly reasonable with a 60m. Jul 13, 2010
Ben Vernon
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Ben Vernon   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Used one 60m rope on this today (going straight up, not left to Left Over Stuff) and both the lower and rap worked out a-ok, plopping us right down on the obvious belay ledge with about 5 feet to spare. Jun 16, 2010
Chad M
Castle Rock, CO
Chad M   Castle Rock, CO
Thanks Tod and Derek! Thanks for addressing the anchors and the block - your efforts to keep everyone safe is greatly appreciated!
It still might be a while before I get back on this one! Aug 28, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
That flake was always like that as long as I can remember.
Thanks, Tod and Derek, for taking care of it! Aug 28, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
Thanks, Tod and Derek, for fixing this! Aug 28, 2009
UPDATE

The monster death cookie (4' x 2' x 2') by the belay is now gone. It yielded easily with just a lift to the end and then quickly dropped under its 300 or so lbs. of weight. Thanks to Derek Lawrence for spotting and keeping people away. Fortunately it didn't do any damage to holds hangers or even the belay ledge and is now a welcome addition to the talus below. I'm not sure if this block was there in its detached condition when the route went in or shifted outward over the last few years, but it should have been tossed long ago.

Additionally an anchor was added at the point that is roughly even with the Leftover Stuff anchor and should be usable for people with 60m ropes. It is located a good 20' below the existing anchor. A distinct effort was made to get the anchor as low as possible without putting it right in the middle of the crux, but there were limitations in finding solid rock for the anchor site. All hardware for this was provided by the Anchor Replacement Initiative/Climbing Magazine, so please show them your support. Hopefully with this anchor at an obvious point at the end of the interesting climbing accidents like the one that happened to Chad earlier this year will not recur. This was the only route left on the wall that didn't have an anchor point within 30m of the ground (if there are others, post them up). It will still be important to watch where you belay with a 60m rope as they're not always the same length and this is a long route. In fact, Derek's 70m rope came up quite short from the top anchor while mine reached to the ledge the other day. Aug 28, 2009
DANGER - DANGER - DANGER

I can't believe that the block identified in 2003 by the belay is still there. That thing is the king of the death cookies if there ever was one. When I first saw it I thought that it had to be one long piece that was somehow wedged into the wall, but no, it's fractured right at the point where it intersects the wall. This thing needs to go big time. Don't even sneeze when you're near it. Hopefully we can organize a small group very soon to remove this looming danger as you need a couple of people on the ground on either side to keep people out of the way when it goes. It seems that it may also be a good idea to add an anchor at the 100' mark as well to avoid what happened to Chad.

Remember CCC is not the rock gym. The rock is basically crap and the only way it was rendered climbable in most cases was through extensive digging, trundling and cleaning. Aug 26, 2009
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.10a
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.10a
I'll put in a second vote for escaping to the anchors on Left Over Stuff. With that exit, it's a perfect 30m pitch. 4 stars in my book. Jun 25, 2007
Umph!  
Very fun climbing. An excellent sport climb on great stone. The crux (getting thru the sharp-shinned "pillar"/roof) felt like 10c'ish - I went up the left side of this "pillar". . . maybe the right side is a bit easier, but it seems off-route.
Some of the "Goldshuts", are slight spinners.
For the good stone and fun movement, and the length, I'd give 'er 3 stars at 10b/c. Jul 11, 2006
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
You can escape left to the anchors of Leftover Stuff at bolt #11 with a shoulder-length runner. This keeps ya from having to bring a second rope, and only miss out on the last two clips of easier climbing. Nov 12, 2005
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.10a
Would disagree with Richard Wright a little bit. The "awkward pillar" does bulge beyond vertical a bit and is pumpy for a leader at this level, like me! Still, a great route! Was especially good today with the canyon closed to thru traffic and trucks. Jul 6, 2005
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Good suggestion about trailing the second rope with the follower, Dave. We did that as well. Very fun route. We were pressed for time after work, but will check out the other routes soon. The looming wall across the creek beckons. Jun 11, 2004
WARNING... there's a big block (100-150 lbs?) just down and to the left of the anchors on this one that looks like it's barely hanging in there.... The cracks on different sides of it are rotted-- the situation wigged me out a bit. Be nice if someone could clean this on out of there, but due to the height and possible other dangers it could be a dangerous project. If it comes down on a climber, s/he'd be toast... My partner tapped it and said it sounded loose; I didn't even want to touch the thing before I rapped and moved the hell down the cliff. Be aware. Jun 26, 2003
Agreed, Old Fart. Having the second trail a rope and clean is a good, uncomplicated way to address the length of this route. Long, sustained, and fun route! May 22, 2002
An absolute "Must Do" in Clear Creek! But what the hell? Why not just trail the second rope (or better yet since we're supposedly still a "team" (even though it's a sport-climb)) have your belayer follow and clean and trail the extra rope. That way, you both get to do the route and and get to avoid any "mid-climb" rope transfer hassles. May 20, 2002
Good call. Once you top out, pull your rope up through the draws, tie it off and toss it down to the belayer. He ties the other rope on, haul the knot up to the anchors and clean the route on rappel. The route is so straight and the anchors are perfectly placed for toproping using the two ropes...no drag at all or directionals needed.

Doing it this way requires anyone toproping it to anchor in at the 3rd bolt while the belayer passes the knot.

Love this route. May 20, 2002
You don't need to trail a second rope, just climb to top, anchor yourself, pull up the rope (through the draws), drop the rope. You then have your belayer lower you (cleaning the draws, which sometimes poses a problem), when your belayer notices you are close to the end, anchor in. Your belayer then ties in the second rope while you anchor yourself to an existing bolt. The belayer passes the knot between the two ropes while your anchored..that's my way, but i'm sure there are others. Mar 11, 2002
3/11/02 - All bolts and holds in place--this route kicks ass! One thing to consider, though. Since the leader has to trail a second rope for the rap, you've got quite an added load by the time you hit the high crux--decent pump factor if you're a weekend warrior like me. Eat your wheaties! Mar 11, 2002
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.10b
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.10b
As of 7/02/01, the first bolt is back in place. I would also agree that this is one of the best climbs in the canyon - certainly one of the best 5.10s. A Must Do! Jul 3, 2001
Just saw under comments for "Hey Good Lookin'" (right next to this route) that the first clip is gone from Hot Stuff. Sorry to hear that. I do not do much sport climbing, so I usually feel less secure on sport/face routes than in cracks, and I appreciate the bolts being there! I certainly hope it reappears. This is a nice route. Jun 19, 2001
Mark Wyss
Denver, CO
Mark Wyss   Denver, CO
Hot Stuff is yet one of the best climbs that I have done in the Canyon. The exposure, length, and sequence moves on this climb make it a great route. If you are looking for a good, extended one-pitch climb in the canyon that is not too hard, but still offers some challenge, hit this climb. You will have a sweet time! Jan 1, 2001