Type: Sport, 135 ft Fixed Hardware (13)
FA: Richard Wright & Alan Nelson, 1996
Page Views: 12,498 total · 53/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


431 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Hot Stuff may be the best warm up route on the Wall of The '90s. It follows a line left of the great roof system and is belayed off a large, flat ledge.

Facing west, this is a perfect place to climb, to tan, or just dig the traffic flowing endlessly up Clear Creek. If you listen carefully you can just hear the loose change clanging in all of the pockets heading up to Black Hawk.

Hot Stuff is never more than vertical, and for the most part offers great edge climbing with a lot of continuity. An awkward, little pillar presents the only conceptual problem at about 65 feet. Hang a bit right, and swim up on excellent holds with good feet. The technical crux follows shortly and is mostly thin and a bit committing, but the pro is great and the creep factor minimal.

Three stars for quality climbing, well bolted, with lots of continuity.

Protection

QDs only. At 130 to 140 feet, Hot Stuff is a long route for a sport climb. Take 16 or so draws and something for the double-bolt anchor at the top.

Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: an anchor was added at the point that is roughly even with the Leftover Stuff anchor and should be usable for people with 60m ropes. It is located a good 20' below the existing anchor. A distinct effort was made to get the anchor as low as possible without putting it right in the middle of the crux, but there were limitations in finding solid rock for the anchor site.

What was a situation where double ropes were STRONGLY recommended since there was no mid-point anchor has been ameliorated in 2009. Still, be careful!

Eds. In 2015, the 1996 original bolts were replaced with 1/2" Powers bolts, thanks to Dave & Lisa Montgomery. Thanks!

Warning

Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: The monster death cookie (4' x 2' x 2') by the belay is now gone. It yielded easily with just a lift to the end and then quickly dropped under its 300 or so lbs. of weight. Thanks to Derek Lawrence for spotting and keeping people away.

Also, per Alex R, the 5th bolt pulls out 1/4". Be careful!

Photos