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Routes in Wall of the '90s
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.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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7-Minute Abs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creekside Prophet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Curvaceous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Mission Overdrive S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: |
Sport, 135 ft (41 m)
Fixed Hardware
(13) |
| FA: | Richard Wright & Alan Nelson, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 15,590 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Hot Stuff may be the best warm up route on the Wall of The '90s. It follows a line left of the great roof system and is belayed off a large, flat ledge.
Facing west, this is a perfect place to climb, to tan, or just dig the traffic flowing endlessly up Clear Creek. If you listen carefully you can just hear the loose change clanging in all of the pockets heading up to Black Hawk.
Hot Stuff is never more than vertical, and for the most part offers great edge climbing with a lot of continuity. An awkward, little pillar presents the only conceptual problem at about 65 feet. Hang a bit right, and swim up on excellent holds with good feet. The technical crux follows shortly and is mostly thin and a bit committing, but the pro is great and the creep factor minimal.
Three stars for quality climbing, well bolted, with lots of continuity.
Facing west, this is a perfect place to climb, to tan, or just dig the traffic flowing endlessly up Clear Creek. If you listen carefully you can just hear the loose change clanging in all of the pockets heading up to Black Hawk.
Hot Stuff is never more than vertical, and for the most part offers great edge climbing with a lot of continuity. An awkward, little pillar presents the only conceptual problem at about 65 feet. Hang a bit right, and swim up on excellent holds with good feet. The technical crux follows shortly and is mostly thin and a bit committing, but the pro is great and the creep factor minimal.
Three stars for quality climbing, well bolted, with lots of continuity.
Protection
QDs only. At 130 to 140 feet, Hot Stuff is a long route for a sport climb. Take 16 or so draws and something for the double-bolt anchor at the top. Per DPug: it now should have 11 bolts with an anchor Mussy hooks up top.
Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: an anchor was added at the point that is roughly even with the Leftover Stuff anchor and should be usable for people with 60m ropes. It is located a good 20' below the existing anchor. A distinct effort was made to get the anchor as low as possible without putting it right in the middle of the crux, but there were limitations in finding solid rock for the anchor site.
What was a situation where double ropes were STRONGLY recommended since there was no mid-point anchor has been ameliorated in 2009. Still, be careful!
Eds. In 2015, the 1996 original bolts were replaced with 1/2" Powers bolts, thanks to Dave & Lisa Montgomery. Thanks!
Warning
Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: The monster death cookie (4' x 2' x 2') by the belay is now gone. It yielded easily with just a lift to the end and then quickly dropped under its 300 or so lbs. of weight. Thanks to Derek Lawrence for spotting and keeping people away.
Also, per Alex R, the 5th bolt pulls out 1/4". Be careful!
Also, per Alex R, the 5th bolt pulls out 1/4". Be careful!
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