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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 18,140 total, 88/month
Shared By: Ramin Jamshidi on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start at the giant eyebolt and head up to sweet, fairly sustained crimpy climbing. Some teeny holds, but you earn a nice rest in the middle of the hard stuff. A really fantasic 11a, but if you want to work even harder, the second pitch ("Porn Queen") is rated 11c/d.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with lowering rings.
Meh. Nov 30, 2016
OS this weekend. can't we just all agree it's a 11b OS and a 11a redpoint. It basically has a couple of technically moves that if you were trying out for the first time is relatively hard and probably easier on the 2nd or 3rd attempt once you know the sequence. Oct 25, 2016
Chad Elliott
Golden
 
Chad Elliott   Golden
 
Flexibility was key for me to get through the crux. Great route for someone pushing into 11s. Well-protected. Oct 6, 2016
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.11b
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.11b
OS today. I have been cruising some other 5.11a-c CCC and Eldo in the last week, but this felt hard for 5.11a. Took me half a dozen attempts stepping back down to the ledge every time to get a foot sequence that worked, and it finally went. I suspect there are other ways to do the crux but wondering either if I missed a better sequence or if the supposed chipped footholds are no longer. Definitely a couple smears for my feet. Great puzzle! Jul 17, 2016
Theodore Morrow
Golden, Co
  5.11a
Theodore Morrow   Golden, Co
  5.11a
One of my favorites in the canyon and my first 5.11a redpoint. At the time, it felt like 5.11c, but after I went back the next month, I would say it is a pretty standard 5.11a. Really fun moves, and the holds aren't too chalked up for the popularity. SUPER FUN! Feb 18, 2016
Brad Gone  
 
A few of the bolts may by tricky to clip if you are under 6'. It's obvious that the route was set so that the bolts could be clipped at full extension by a climber at least 5'9" tall.

I suspect that climbing the route with the draws pre-hung would make this route substantially easier for a shorter person. Sep 5, 2015
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Seems strange, Kevin, because without me telling my partner, she said she noticed it too. I'm not saying there is, but it seems like we both concluded that the feet were different...but I'll take your word on it! :) Dec 9, 2014
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
Chris,
I warmed up on this today and didn't find any chipped footholds or change. Still all natural from what I saw. Nov 30, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Agreed. I don't think it changes the grade, but it definitely makes it quite a bit easier. Could almost be in the 10d/11a range now. Bummer. Also, if you ever want to head up to Mission to try that rig, give me a call. The name is Chris Smith. Nov 10, 2014
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
Sounds very suspicious, since before they always seemed to be getting worse. Nov 10, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Hey Kevin,

I met you recently at Wof'90s, and you were giving me beta on Mission! Both of the holds got better, and I have had many holds break on me. These both look really, really suspicious. They used to be foot smears both of them, and now they are incut foot chips. Like I said, I have no proof and can't come at anyone. I am just asking that if it happened, please do not let it happen again. If you remember the route, Kevin, try climbing it again and see for yourself. The first crux has a foot that is now incut down and right, and after you hit the gaston rail and you bump your right foot up to a foot hold, you will see that there is now an incut foot there too. Seems suspicious that the two worst feet on the route somehow got conveniently better. I'm not accusing anyone just asking for it to stop. Enjoy the climb though, one of the better 11s in the Front Range! Nov 10, 2014
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
Train4Life, did the holds get better or worse? I noticed the footholds crumbled about a year ago. So if they got better than that would be suspicious; however, holds do break all the time. Nov 10, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I'm not trying to start a riot, but I'm a little disappointed in whoever chipped the two footholds at the bottom of the route on the crux. I have done this route numerous times and noticed the difference immediately, and my friend was projecting it and sent a long time ago, so she is very intimate with the route and its feet. If people could not chip a route, that would be appropriate. If it is too hard, then just get a bit stronger and try it again. It would seem extremely odd that the two worst footholds on the route chipped off at the exact angle to make the feet better and randomly showed up, so I am going to assume that someone chipped. Anyways, Reefer is a great route, and can we just climb the route and not worry so much about the grade? I know compared to Rifle, this is probably a 5.6 there! Pump up your ego, Go Rifle! I climb in Rifle too, so stop this grade controversy, this would be 11a or 10d in Rifle too! I have been on an easier 11b in the Skull Cave at Rifle that I would grade 10d. Grades are different everywhere and may feel easier for one climber than another. Reefer is a fun route, and that's all that matters...it's around the 11- region and just take it at that! Enjoy the climb and no more chipping! Good luck on the climb, friends! Nov 10, 2014
Lauren D. Hollingsworth
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
Lauren D. Hollingsworth   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
At 5'5" I'll take .11b. Undercling off the rest block to clip, then moving up by crimping the left foothold to get into the angled crack= .11b. Couldn't reach the juggy looking thing that taller people were clipping from at that bolt. Great climb! Jul 27, 2014
Almost got the onsight...misread the mid-route crux and got into trouble...but I loved the route! Also used the route to set a top rope on the famous Ten Digit Dialing to the left. May 26, 2014
Robert Daniel.
Denver, Colorado
 
Robert Daniel.   Denver, Colorado
 
FYI there is a big ole pile of sheeit to the left of the anchors. Nov 17, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
5.10d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
5.10d
Good plan. Wall of the '90s is stacked. Also throw Schwing Salute in that mix, not too much harder than RM. Oct 11, 2012
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
I can't wait to get back and try Curvaceous, Wet Dream, and Ten Digit. In that order, it sounds kinda dirty. It was the first time for my wife and I climbing at wall of the '90s. She hates waiting and watching me claw, curse, fall, scream, and cry my way up 5.12s or Rifle 5.11s, so I might have to go back to try those with a different belay partner. Thanks for the great guidebook! Oct 11, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
5.10d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
5.10d
Nice, Nate! Looks like you need to step it up and do Ten Digit, a Rifle 11+! Oct 10, 2012
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
I just climbed in Rifle last weekend, so this felt like a 5.10, but as was said before, that's like comparing oranges to lawn chairs. I thought it felt 5.11a for CCC. Fun, short climb probably a great one if you're looking for your first 5.11 lead. It kinda felt like a gym climb with plenty a bolts, and the holds in your face obvious. Oct 9, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11a
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.11a
Loved the thin moves. Kinda like "Walking With A Ghost" at Canal Zone, but much easier. Great route to practice body position and foot edging. Oct 3, 2011
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
It seems like comparing apples and lawn furniture. Too different to really make a realistic comparison. Aug 8, 2011
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
  5.11b
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
  5.11b
Reality: within the canyon, the ratings are consistent.
Reality: compared to the most sandbagged crag in the country (give or take), the grades are soft. Aug 7, 2011
Harald Harb
Dumont
 
Harald Harb   Dumont
 
This is a fine climb, fun, with a techy crux, but not a Rifle level 5.11, it maybe a Clear Creek 5.11, but there are huge standard differences between Rifle and Clear Creek. If you want to be a 5.12 climber, stick with Clear Creek, because you will not send a Rifle 5.12 with Clear Creek experience. Rifle is about three letter grades more difficult.

This is not to put down CC, I love climbing here, but just bringing some reality to the ratings. Aug 5, 2011
dan scales
Denver, CO
  5.11b
dan scales   Denver, CO
  5.11b
Fun climb. A climber's 11. Techy crux that took a couple goes to figure out and good rests throughout. Not burly or pumpy, but you've got to be a skilled climber to send (no muscling up steep jugs..cough...Wall of Justice...cough). Apr 13, 2011
Heyted  
I climbed this, this morning, great climb, fits the grade. All you turds who want to downgrade it should either be climbing harder or haven't climbed enough grades to compare. It is clean and the crux has a great move that is pretty technical, it's just a short thriller. Jun 11, 2010
M Lindfors
Highlands Ranch
M Lindfors   Highlands Ranch
My son onsighted and thought the grade was good. I guess if you are really short 5'1" or so, you can use intermediates to get to the top. May 16, 2010
Deathkills
North Denver CO
 
Deathkills   North Denver CO
 
Why would you give a route you thought fell short 4 stars??? May 4, 2010
Great climbing on good stone, but I was expecting more...it had a big reputation built up around it & I found it fell short of my expectations. However, this is still a great line and worth climbing again and again!!! Nov 11, 2009
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
A decent route, but I was a bit disappointed by the slabby, ledgy nature of the climbing, and how short it was. Grade seemed way off, although some of my shorter climbing partners disagree. Aug 24, 2009
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.10+
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.10+
I could've sworn it was 10+ before I checked the guidebook, but I guess it could be the infinite amount of ledges/rests between the business. Haha, what a clean line though. Seems like a great warm up for Ten Digit. Jun 8, 2009
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
Great route...crux for me was almost more the final move topping out on tenuous slopers than the lower balancy sidepull move. Definitely sequency this kicked my ass the first time, but looking forward to going back. Aug 24, 2008
Aeon Aki    
 
Perhaps it was the blazing sun mixed with greasy holds, the contrived nature of the climbing, the choss I had to navigate my way through, or the grid-bolted face I was looking up at, but this route left much to be desired. If this is the best rock in Clear Creek Canyon, I think I've seen enough. Bomb! Jun 18, 2008
Added some lowering hooks to the anchors of this one. Left the old chains in place in case people don't like the new hooks. Jul 5, 2007
Luke Evans
  5.11a
Luke Evans  
  5.11a
Such a Great Route! The Rock is Amazing. Crisp Edges, Slopers, Jugs........Awesome. The Undercling at the huge ledge after the CRuX seemed to have been broken but it doesn't really make a difference! Sep 6, 2005
Superb line. The thinner section around the fourth bolt (?) was the crux for me. The route includes nice thin climbing then somewhat rounded laybacks in a crack system finishing with sloping holds to top out. Jul 24, 2005
If you can reach the sidepull on the lower move (I can and I'm 5'-9"), you may take for granted a very tough move to get to that hold for a shorter person. Same goes for the top. Jul 22, 2005
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Man, you guys are taking the wind right out of my sails. This was my first 11 onsight and I loved it! I was really pumped at the end even with the good rests. May be a light 11a but much harder than any 10d I've done. Aug 3, 2004
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
The grade felt right to me. Realizing that the grades in the canyon can be sometimes soft, Reefer Madness felt right on. I'm a short, skinny little bastard who is not much of a sport climber so take my comment with a grain of salt. I'm comparing this to other 5.11s at Wall of the Nineties. Jun 25, 2004
Comparing to another climb near by; it is definitely harder than Hot Stuff. Aug 15, 2003
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
Are there routes around here graded 10c or 10d that seem harder? ... Definitely are there routes around here graded 10c or 10d that seem easier? ... Definitely are there routes around here graded 11b or 11c that seem easier? ... Definitely are there routes around here graded 11b or 11c that seem harder? ... Definitely.

My point? Grades as we all know are not an absolute ... does a route or problem really have to "seem harder" to us than every route we've done of a lower grade or "seem easier" than every route or problem we've done of a higher grade before we are willing to settle on a grade or willing to leave a grade alone that's not completely out of whack? Every route if different for every person and to paraphrase a quote from John Gill, "every ascent is different" ... even for the same person.

Secondly, we also know that people's ideas of grades become skewed by the areas they climb at regularly. Unfortunately, ratings at different places here in CO are all over the place and often times make no sense at all (there are places in the US that grades make total sense, but that's another topic). Yeah, a lot of routes of the same grade in Eldo and Lumpy will seem hard when compared with a lot of routes in CCC (BTW ... comparing traditional ratings with sport ratings is a bad idea anyway as it is an entirely different ballgame even if you preplace and inspect all your gear first). Anyway, does that make Eldo & Lumpy right and CCC wrong???

After climbing all over the country, I've come to the conclusion that the truth is somewhere in between, but its definitely not worth using anymore cb.com bandwidth over.

That said, I think I'll stop ... peace. Jun 12, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
The notion of the "Gold Standard" has been batted around on this site several times, and I think that everyone agrees that refernce to a Gold Standard is a good way to come to agreement on a grade. For Reefer Madness, one could pick the crux of Superslab (easier but harder to protect), or P1 of Animal Magnetism (bit harder) to bracket RM. That places it between 10C and 11C. How about Evangeline, seems a bit harder, so not 11b. Sea of Dreams? - bit harder, so harder than 10d. Suparete? - similar in difficulty and continuity. I think he got it right on the nose. Jun 12, 2003
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
  5.10+
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
  5.10+
I did not mean to offend anyone. I was not trying to put anyone down. Route grades should be consistant. I think it would be a bad idea to do this climb and go to another area and think the grade would be the same in difficulty for another route. CCC is notoriously over rated especially compared to other nearby areas (Eldorado canyon, (part of) Boulder canyon, South Platte, Lumpy, RMNP). This is my own opinion on the difficulty of the route, you can give yours (it is harder than 5.6). It is a fun climb.

Casey Bernalc a s e y b e r n a l @ h o t m a i l . c o m Jun 12, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Thanks AC - I was hoping someone would put this line in its place. I was thinking 5.8 for side pulls on marginal feet and maybe 5.7 for long reach at the end that burls out to the slopers at the finish. So, 5.8 plus 5.7, looks like 5.6 overall. What do you suppose that Alan was thinking? My Grandma could do it, and she has been dead for 45 years. Jun 11, 2003
Fun route. Definitely not 11. The hardest move is no harder than mid 10 and there are plenty of very good rests before and after which should make the overall rating mid 10. Fun climbing with lots of bolts. Jun 11, 2003
Great route, tons of fun all the way to the chains. Great holds and interesting moves. Definitely harder for someone shorter than around 5'10". My partner had a hell of a time pushing through the crux sidepulls and is about 5'9" with a fairly average reach. The section right before the ledge in the middle is also somewhat reachy. I'll definitely be coming back for more. Oct 23, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
A great route, I give it three stars. I think it may be a little bit harder from someone that is shorter than say 5', the crux sidepulls may be very hard to get to and be very balancy, will no doubt be harder than 11a. Next time out, ten digit dialing, looks superb... Cheers Sep 29, 2001
R.M. extension, Porn Queen has decent moves but be prepared to be climbing bird poop. Also, reaching the last bolt before the chains is a dicey for those under 6' and a #0 TCU protects a fall onto the ledge and beyond. Jan 1, 2001
I wouldn't discourage people under six feet from trying this route. I'm 5'9" not a hot climber by any means and the last section, though definitely out of character for the area (slopy and balancy) was not a sandbag, and I found it doable. Jan 1, 2001