Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 2,829 total · 65/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

The left half of the Wall of the '90s is capped by a complex of large, tiered roofs. Harlot braves the left side of this roof complex but skirts the final roof by following the obvious left-angling weakness. Hellcat is the proper directissima, tackling the final obstacle with a wild, pumpy, and exposed sequence that culminates in a huge throw to a jug at the lip. The largely stellar rock, sustained difficulty, and remarkable position make this mega line one of the best hard climbs in the canyon.

Approach by climbing any of the slab routes below the roof, to a hands-free stance at the Vixen anchor. Clear the initial 3-foot roof on large directional holds to a horizontal seam in the crook of the main roof. Tension-y moves lead out to a sloping fin and a contorted lip pull sequence. Technical, sequential liebacking leads to a strenuous rest stance below the final slanted ceiling. A big reach to a finger bucket in brilliant iron-hued stone sets up a make-or-break huck to the lip, followed by an easy mantel onto the hanging slab.

Location

Climb out the big roof system on the left, slabby section of the Wall of the '90s, beginning from the Vixen anchor. Once in the white streaks above the biggest roof, move right to tackle the final slanted roof.

Protection

9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (not including the approach pitch).

Photos

Plain Toast
MY FANTASY WORLD
  5.13c/d
Plain Toast   MY FANTASY WORLD
  5.13c/d
A big shout to Michael Hauck for equipping this rig with permas. If you see him walking down the road, shake his hand. To avoid heinous drag on this guy I skipped half the bolts on the Vixen slab using extended 22 inch alpine draws coupled with a normal draw to straighten things out a bit. Also skipped the second and last perma, though the last wasn't for drag just pump and anticipation! Even with these drag precautions, I still had to boink up and down while lowering to get down with all the friction. I'm 140 pounds, so some of the bigger lads and lassies might not have to. If you're lighter than me, you might consider climbing up to the chains, don't clip, take the victory whip as the drag isn't noticeable until the anchor. This route is definitely worthy of more traffic, super fun. Jul 22, 2017
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
  5.14a
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
  5.14a
Skipped the bolts and climbed this 100% on trad gear from the ground today. If anyone wants to try, the crux piece in the roof is a green C3 right next to the permadraw! Oct 7, 2017