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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 2,094 total, 71/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The left half of the Wall of the '90s is capped by a complex of large, tiered roofs. Harlot braves the left side of this roof complex but skirts the final roof by following the obvious left-angling weakness. Hellcat is the proper directissima, tackling the final obstacle with a wild, pumpy, and exposed sequence that culminates in a huge throw to a jug at the lip. The largely stellar rock, sustained difficulty, and remarkable position make this mega line one of the best hard climbs in the canyon.

Approach by climbing any of the slab routes below the roof, to a hands-free stance at the Vixen anchor. Clear the initial 3-foot roof on large directional holds to a horizontal seam in the crook of the main roof. Tension-y moves lead out to a sloping fin and a contorted lip pull sequence. Technical, sequential liebacking leads to a strenuous rest stance below the final slanted ceiling. A big reach to a finger bucket in brilliant iron-hued stone sets up a make-or-break huck to the lip, followed by an easy mantel onto the hanging slab.

Location

Climb out the big roof system on the left, slabby section of the Wall of the '90s, beginning from the Vixen anchor. Once in the white streaks above the biggest roof, move right to tackle the final slanted roof.

Protection

9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (not including the approach pitch).
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
  5.14a
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
  5.14a
Skipped the bolts and climbed this 100% on trad gear from the ground today. If anyone wants to try, the crux piece in the roof is a green C3 right next to the permadraw! Oct 7, 2017
Falon
Denver, Colorado
  5.13c/d
Falon   Denver, Colorado
  5.13c/d
A big shout to Michael Hauck for equipping this rig with permas. If you see him walking down the road, shake his hand. To avoid heinous drag on this guy I skipped half the bolts on the Vixen slab using extended 22 inch alpine draws coupled with a normal draw to straighten things out a bit. Also skipped the second and last perma, though the last wasn't for drag just pump and anticipation! Even with these drag precautions, I still had to boink up and down while lowering to get down with all the friction. I'm 140 pounds, so some of the bigger lads and lassies might not have to. If you're lighter than me, you might consider climbing up to the chains, don't clip, take the victory whip as the drag isn't noticeable until the anchor. This route is definitely worthy of more traffic, super fun. Jul 22, 2017