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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright, 1998
Page Views: 4,755 total, 23/month
Shared By: Ramin Jamshidi on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


141 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is an excellent route with a brief cruxy section up to and over a small roof. Both below and above this are fun slabby moves. The rating is a little soft (Refer Madness on this same wall is decidedly more difficult, for example), so if you're looking to claim your first 11 lead, this is a fun route for it!

Protection

10 bolts; 2 bolt anchor. Tightly bolted.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
The "butt sitting" move makes this route easy for a 5.11. Jul 11, 2016
Eric Thomas
Colorado
  5.11a PG13
Eric Thomas   Colorado
  5.11a PG13
I'm going to out on a limb here and say that I felt the roof is not easy like everyone is saying. I have a decent reach, and I had to clip on the insecure awkward left hand. Blowing that would really suck. I think the bolt should have been below the roof so you could clip at a more comfortable stance, power up to the juggy rail, and then clip the other bolt that's in your face.

Yes, the rest of the route is 10ish (and definitely the highlight), but we are supposed to rate routes by what the hardest move is not rate each move individually and then average them out.

Moral of the story, I climb 11s fairly regularly. If you're looking to redpoint your first, this isn't ideal unless you're seven feet tall. Apr 5, 2016
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
I replaced the anchor on this today with some 3.5" SS wedge bolts and single ring hangers, FYI. Mar 6, 2015
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
Tried the second pitch today. Doesn't look like it sees much action. The first bulge to below the huge roof is manageable, but the roof itself felt pretty burly. Some flat blocks to sink out against then some sloping gastons as part of the crack. Above the lip, there are a couple of crimps and an undercling. I stopped there though as the rock quality was not so great and I wasn't making much progress. I thought the movement felt oddly similar to the Double Stout roof around the corner but with much worse rock. Aug 5, 2013
kipp.fo
Los Angeles, CA
 
kipp.fo   Los Angeles, CA
 
Don't feel like the roof is anywhere near 11a. More like 10 b/c. The third or second to last bolt before the anchors feels tough if you climb it direct and don't skirt left to all the chalk. Seems as though no one climbs it direct...hmm. Jul 23, 2012
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
Annoying novelty clip over the roof, almost earns it a bomb. Aug 24, 2009
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
  5.11a
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
  5.11a
I took a fall at the roof and it went clean. Did anyone else use the beta where you throw yourself up to get your butt sitting on the huge horn just left of the clip? Awesome rest! I thought the climbing above the roof was decent. The big ledges for your feet at most of the clips take away some excitement, but I felt that the climbing was good. Aug 7, 2009
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
This is a fun climb. It's definitely not 11 once you get past the roof. IMO, the climbing past the roof is, as my buddy said, not memorable. Moving through the roof is fun, though, and I'd give it at least a hard 10 rating. It's a little heady for the clip protecting that section because the holds are a bit sketchy and there are a couple features below that have the potential to make a fall nasty. Jul 26, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I'm glad at least a few people think this is harder than the 10c guidebook rating. I was desperate under the ceiling despite having the advantage of a double draw hanging from the bolt over the lip. Once I got the jug, the ceiling itself was easy. Nov 23, 2008
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.10d
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.10d
Fun route, no way 9-. Jul 6, 2005
Real trad rating: 5.9-. Mar 28, 2004
What is the second pitch to this? It goes up the upside down v and then pulls the roof. Has anyone done it? Mar 25, 2004
If you don't mind looking stupid, which I don't, you can "saddle up" on the horn right over the roof and get a no hands, no foot rest. At 98 degrees F this allows for one to needlessly overchalk. JM

Aug 6, 2003
For the totally bored, there is a nearly completely independent from Vixen and Hey Good Lookin' is a super-squeezed in between TR variation named in honor of Allen Light called Squeezing in a bit of Texas. Maybe 11a if Vixen is 11a. May 3, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.10b
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.10b
Might soft. 10b is more like it. Nonetheless, really fun! Mar 5, 2002