Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright, 1998
Page Views: 5,260 total · 24/month
Shared By: Ramin Jamshidi on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

168 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details


This is an excellent route with a brief cruxy section up to and over a small roof. Both below and above this are fun slabby moves. The rating is a little soft (Refer Madness on this same wall is decidedly more difficult, for example), so if you're looking to claim your first 11 lead, this is a fun route for it!


10 bolts; 2 bolt anchor. Tightly bolted.


Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Might soft. 10b is more like it. Nonetheless, really fun! Mar 5, 2002
For the totally bored, there is a nearly completely independent from Vixen and Hey Good Lookin' is a super-squeezed in between TR variation named in honor of Allen Light called Squeezing in a bit of Texas. Maybe 11a if Vixen is 11a. May 3, 2003
If you don't mind looking stupid, which I don't, you can "saddle up" on the horn right over the roof and get a no hands, no foot rest. At 98 degrees F this allows for one to needlessly overchalk. JM

Aug 6, 2003
What is the second pitch to this? It goes up the upside down v and then pulls the roof. Has anyone done it? Mar 25, 2004
Real trad rating: 5.9-. Mar 28, 2004
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Fun route, no way 9-. Jul 6, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I'm glad at least a few people think this is harder than the 10c guidebook rating. I was desperate under the ceiling despite having the advantage of a double draw hanging from the bolt over the lip. Once I got the jug, the ceiling itself was easy. Nov 23, 2008
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
This is a fun climb. It's definitely not 11 once you get past the roof. IMO, the climbing past the roof is, as my buddy said, not memorable. Moving through the roof is fun, though, and I'd give it at least a hard 10 rating. It's a little heady for the clip protecting that section because the holds are a bit sketchy and there are a couple features below that have the potential to make a fall nasty. Jul 26, 2009
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
Sean Wolf   Denver, CO
I took a fall at the roof and it went clean. Did anyone else use the beta where you throw yourself up to get your butt sitting on the huge horn just left of the clip? Awesome rest! I thought the climbing above the roof was decent. The big ledges for your feet at most of the clips take away some excitement, but I felt that the climbing was good. Aug 7, 2009

Annoying novelty clip over the roof, almost earns it a bomb. Aug 24, 2009
Los Angeles, CA
kipp.fo   Los Angeles, CA
Don't feel like the roof is anywhere near 11a. More like 10 b/c. The third or second to last bolt before the anchors feels tough if you climb it direct and don't skirt left to all the chalk. Seems as though no one climbs it direct...hmm. Jul 23, 2012
Denver, CO
SteveZ   Denver, CO
Tried the second pitch today. Doesn't look like it sees much action. The first bulge to below the huge roof is manageable, but the roof itself felt pretty burly. Some flat blocks to sink out against then some sloping gastons as part of the crack. Above the lip, there are a couple of crimps and an undercling. I stopped there though as the rock quality was not so great and I wasn't making much progress. I thought the movement felt oddly similar to the Double Stout roof around the corner but with much worse rock. Aug 5, 2013
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
I replaced the anchor on this today with some 3.5" SS wedge bolts and single ring hangers, FYI. Mar 6, 2015
Eric Thomas
  5.11a PG13
Eric Thomas   Colorado
  5.11a PG13
I'm going to out on a limb here and say that I felt the roof is not easy like everyone is saying. I have a decent reach, and I had to clip on the insecure awkward left hand. Blowing that would really suck. I think the bolt should have been below the roof so you could clip at a more comfortable stance, power up to the juggy rail, and then clip the other bolt that's in your face.

Yes, the rest of the route is 10ish (and definitely the highlight), but we are supposed to rate routes by what the hardest move is not rate each move individually and then average them out.

Moral of the story, I climb 11s fairly regularly. If you're looking to redpoint your first, this isn't ideal unless you're seven feet tall. Apr 5, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
The "butt sitting" move makes this route easy for a 5.11. Jul 11, 2016
Chris Ham
Chris Ham  
Going direct through the bolts made this feel 10d. Dunno what everyone is on about. The pull over the roof is enough for 10+, IMO. Didn't do the "sit" beta I'm seeing, just a low left hand, high right crimp and high right foot to slowly pull over. I think it's the second to last bolt where going slightly right of the bolt line could make it 10d/11a with a couple of crimpy moves. This is where you can bust left for more 5.9 climbing -- while Reefer is more sustained the crux felt comparable to this move on Vixen.

So basically, if you want true 10d/11a, don't take the left moves towards the top, and stay slightly to the right of the bolts for a fun, upper crux. Jul 16, 2018