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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creekside Prophet S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c A0
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: Gregg Purnell
Page Views: 4,849 total · 23/month
Shared By: gregg purnell on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This has lots of good moves if you like crimpers and sloper jugs. It is very well-protected but still scary! You might like this. It is just left of the 2 cracks on the far right. Follow the "black and tan" stain up the slab.

Protection

10 bolts with chains for the anchor*.

Photos

Is this route open yet? Where exactly is it on the wall? Apr 18, 2006
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
As far as I can tell it's been open for over 5 years. Though, I would put it more at 5.13b. Very slabby, with an insane one foot balance crux up to some weird slopey gaston, if memory serves. When you hike up to the Wall of the '90s, go up and right. Continue past 10 Digit Dialing and The Strange Iron Handle, down and around the corner. It is the next bolted line on the wall, and should have one or two steel links screwed onto bolts. Not sure if they're for bailing, or if someone chose them instead of a biner. The start is a bit chossy, and leads to a high first clip. If you start going up hill again and come to the furthest bolted line (Interstellar Overdrive) on the wall, you've gone too far. Good luck, this climb is stout! May 4, 2006
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I am sorry to report I broke off two of the crux holds yesterday. One is the right-facing flake entering the crux below the lower clip, it is now a smaller almost undercling crimp. Yikes! This hold may not last long either.
Also, at the crux bolt, in the weird gaston dish, a small part of the smallest usuable two finger crimp broke off.

This may bump the rating a letter. It will still go, but I would put it at 13b now.

The footwork is insane on this route! Mar 16, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Has this ever been redpointed? Mar 17, 2008
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
It has been redpointed prior to the hold breaking at the crux. Mar 17, 2008
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
Got on this thing today on TR - whoooo! stiff! Couldn't pull the crux moves down low, between bolt 3 and 4, I believe. I couldn't even conceive of a sequence that would work, but I know it's there and I'll be back! The rest of the route was tons of fun, with improbable looking moves that leave you smiling, and screaming, all the way to the top.

Does anyone know if this has been sent since the holds have broken? I haven't given in yet, but I may need some beta in the coming weeks if things don't go well for me. Nov 4, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Most likely has NOT been sent in its current state. Go get it, Jay!

BTW, what is your wing span? Nov 5, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
LOL, good question, Darren; wingspan is 6'. I toyed with the idea of making the long reach, but I think I'm gonna have to give in and use either the gaston/dish or the micro-crimp underneath it. Gonna have to get up there and spend some time on that move, the other day it was getting dark and cold and didn't want to put my belayer through too much hell. Just out of curiosity, have you pulled the crux moves? Is there some beta floating around out there in the land of MP? Nov 6, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I came soooooo close making the crux moves on lead in its current state. Even with the wingspan, you still have to make a bunch of moves and not gain too much ground in order to hit the arete. PM sent....

I would give it 3 stars if the rest of the route was consistent, but as it stands, it's kind of a piss-hard one move wonder. And the rock is still pretty friable. The crappy footholds that you do get won't last that long either. Unfortunate.... Nov 6, 2009
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.13b
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.13b
I jumped on this yesterday after encouragement from Jay (from comments above) and found that it still goes without being absurdly hard. Maybe 13b or c? I'm 5'9", and reach wasn't an issue as I never went all the way out to the arete (until after the crux). Just terrible feet and hands to sort of balance your way through to the jugs. Not wanting to be too spray-y, just hoping to see people out putting this one away again! My beta was pretty straightforward, but if anyone's interested, I'd be happy to share. Also, the holds I used seem solid and unlikely to break again, which is nice if you're going to be putting the time in on it.

And I agree with Jay/Darren, the top of the route is really cool, but the crux is significantly harder than the rest. If you like your routes with legit cruxes, this may be a good one. Jan 21, 2013
chris way
  5.13a
chris way  
  5.13a
I climbed Black and Tan today and felt that it's probably in the 13a range and not more difficult as is speculated above; I would be wary of inflating the grade - it is an odd style and as a result might feel difficult for other reasons. It's an awesome route and technically very interesting - well worth climbing. I felt it climbed like Public Solitude - so if you liked this one, go do that and have fun. Jun 9, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Glad to hear it has cleaned up, Chris! This was not the case 5 years ago. How would you compare the difficulties to its neighbor to the left? Jun 18, 2013
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.13b
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.13b
Interesting, I thought Black and Tan to be opposite from Public Solitude in almost every way. This was cruxy on tiny holds with good rests on non-vertical slabbing while Public was a pumpy sprint on big slopers from bottom to top. Just goes to show how perception varies, I suppose. Agreed that this one was interesting though. I don't think I've done a move like it before.

Darren - as for its neighbor, I thought this was a touch harder than the first pitch of Double Stout solely because linking the two cruxes was low percentage for me. They're great training for one another though, balancing on terrible feet and all.

Hope you get back soon and finish off that Double Stout.... Jul 4, 2013
chris way
  5.13a
chris way  
  5.13a
Funny, I thought they felt about the same, but the first pitch of Double Stout is probably a little more temperature-dependent and has a clipping crux that isn't found on Black and Tan. It was a hot day though - cool routes.

What I meant with my comparison to PS was the technical feet and body tension are required; both routes are also very short. Either way, go climb on them. Be psyched, and don't forget we're just talking about rocks. Jul 20, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I remember having a long sling on crux of B&T, as I did not do the moves using the second left side-pull. At one point, my draws were on both of these routes but must have vanished over the years.

Chris, a few long draws at choice spots on DS will help with some tough or early clips and also with rope drag when running the pitch in its entirety. Jul 23, 2013
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.13b
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.13b
"Either way, go climb on them. Be psyched, and don't forget we're just talking about rocks."

Total agreement. Jul 25, 2013
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
I have only tried the climb once now and thought it was incredible! But I was curious about the first crux. I think that the move is to go out left to the good, sloping sidepull, then right hand to a small crimp, then pump up to a really bad, 2 finger crimp on spikes, then match the left hand in a slopey dish, and bump to the arĂȘte from there. Does anyone have any beta on the first crux??? Oct 14, 2013
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.13b
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.13b
^^^^^^
That's pretty much what I did too. Though once I got the slopey dish with the LH, I bumped RH out right to a gaston that you can kind of lean over into. From there, it worked to either sink onto the RH and cross LH all the way out to the jug on the arete or press up LH to a decent hold that's hard to see. Might depend on your height which is easier? Good luck! Oct 15, 2013
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
So, I have revisited this climb and can do every move but the first crux. I am curious if anyone has any beta for the first crux...I am 5'10" with a +2 ape index. I wanted to go to the arete down low but wasn't sure if that is easier or going to the crimps up high was. Also, how do the feet go through the section...if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear it. GREAT ROUTE!!! :) Last bolt to the anchor is such a pleasure...spooky yet safe. I popped basically horizontal and took a cool whip. Spooky, yet safe. It's kinda a head game! Get on it!!! Mar 9, 2015
Jcburgart  
 
I would love anyone to PM me beta.
Especially if we are still lumping this guy in the 13- range... how the hell are people pulling through the crux?

Also, has the route been *sent* by anyone in the route's current state? Apr 4, 2018
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Jcburgart, Mike Anderson onsighted few years ago according to his tick comment. Apr 4, 2018
This route is significantly harder than the 13b version of Double Stout to the left. I think it's probably in the 13c or 13d range in its current state. There are two methods for the crux: one involves some tricky toe hooks and powerful compression moving out to the arete low, and the other fingernail crimping, with a more direct line past the bolts, and a broken pocket. I redpointed the route using the latter method, but it requires cold, crispy conditions and/or alligator skin. Above the crux the climbing is significantly easier but still interesting and cryptic. Excellent tech-9 climbing...if you like that sort of thing. May 6, 2018

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