Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Kurt Smith and Alan Nelson, 1990
Page Views: 1,349 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jun 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route climbs friable edges just to the right of Reefer Madness. The moves are interesting, the crux sequence included, but a bit scary feeling the key holds flex. In addition certain footholds are very likely to come crumbling off if used. Recommended finish is to merge with Reefer Madness at its last bolt rather than climbing the bolt protected bird shit and bird home crack. Gave one star for the interesting crux and continuity gained by climbing the top of Reefer Madness, just find the solid footholds before cranking through this one.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (shared with Reefer Madness). Possible to use small nut to protect easy climb to 1st bolt. Belay off large eye bolt.

Photos

A. Bandos
Broomfield
  5.11b PG13
A. Bandos   Broomfield
  5.11b PG13
I'm posting to encourage more people to climb this line. The movement is actually really fun. Yes, a fall before the first bolt is unthinkable, but you are on huge holds. If you merge with the last bolt of Reefer, the rock quality remains good. Apr 29, 2016
heppnerd  
 
One of the worst routes I have done in a long time. Full of bird and bat poop with crappy rock. Linked this into the upper pitch which was ok. Aug 19, 2013
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.11
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.11
This route has some fun and unique moves, and a tricky crux that is fun to figure out. True, the first bolt is high, but as others have said you can have your belayer anchor to the large eyebolt for protection until you get to the first bolt. Moving into Reefer for the last bolt seemed like the natural line to me. Nov 29, 2009
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11 PG13
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11 PG13
I thought the route was pretty fun actually. I did the bird poop finish and managed to touch not one bit of it. Apr 15, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11
I think this route is really fun, slightly harder than Reefer Madness, definitely not to be missed. Just clip a sling to the ring, and you'll be fine. The crux has one hold that flexes but the feet were solid, and it's really only one move so "F" it. Mar 25, 2009
J. Fox
Black Hawk, CO
 
J. Fox   Black Hawk, CO
 
I did the same thing as Jeremy. I anchored myself to the large eye-bolt until Dan was clipped into the first bolt. It's easy climbing, but if he fell before the clip, we'd both be dead right now, splattered on the rocks way down below. I tried this climb and couldn't make it past the first 1/3. Of course, I don't climb anywhere near the .11s. There was a lot of bird dookie on this one and birds buzzing my head the whole time. I finished by penduluming over to Reefer Madness since I was on TR. Aug 12, 2008
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.11c R
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.11c R
I think this route is almost as good as Reefer Madness. I had my belayer anchor to the steel "ring" until I got to the first bolt. Jun 8, 2008
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c R
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c R
I found this route to be much better than the credit it has been given. Fun cruxy moves throughout, with the choice of pulling the roof or following the crack... albeit wiping away a little bird shit along the way! =) Aug 10, 2006
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
How about something below the first bolt, either a real belay anchor or a bolt? The climbing is easy but the potential fall is fatal for both belayer and leader. Considering how closely bolted the rest of it is, it seems irresponsible to leave it in its current condition. Alan, what do you think? Sep 24, 2001