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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: equipped by Tod Anderson, FFA Mark Anderson, May 2015
Page Views: 806 total · 26/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This all-but-forgotten line has wallowed in obscurity for over a decade, guarded by a low, deceptive band of chossy stone that adeptly deters potential suitors. Those who brave the handful of dirty holds at the start will be rewarded with solid, largely excellent stone and fantastic movement. The roof is typical of horizontal climbing in Clear Creek, —sandy in spots but solid where necessary,— leading to a brilliant, multi-hued headwall of burnt orange gneiss, white calcite, and lime-green lichen. Despite appearances, this is not your typical one-move wonder roof-pull. The climbing is surprisingly sustained from the moment you step off the Vixen slab until you clip the anchor, some 30 moves later.

Approach by climbing any of the slab routes below the roof, to a hands-free stance at the Vixen anchor. Clear the initial 3-foot roof on large directional holds to a horizontal seam in the crook of the main roof. Tension-y moves lead out to a slanted fin and a contorted lip pull sequence. Follow the sloping ramp leftward, passing a pair of right-facing overlaps on brilliant stone, finally reaching a well-deserved jug a few feet below the anchor.

Location

Climb out the big roof system on the left, slabby section of the Wall of the '90s, beginning from the Vixen anchor. Once in the white streaks above the biggest roof, move left, avoiding the last roof.

Protection

6 bolts to 2BA, not including the approach pitch. There’s a slightly spicy stretch from the last bolt to the anchor, but the holds get bigger the higher you go.

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