Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: equipped by Tod Anderson, FFA Mark Anderson, May 2015
Page Views: 1,028 total · 22/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

This all-but-forgotten line has wallowed in obscurity for over a decade, guarded by a low, deceptive band of chossy stone that adeptly deters potential suitors. Those who brave the handful of dirty holds at the start will be rewarded with solid, largely excellent stone and fantastic movement. The roof is typical of horizontal climbing in Clear Creek, —sandy in spots but solid where necessary,— leading to a brilliant, multi-hued headwall of burnt orange gneiss, white calcite, and lime-green lichen. Despite appearances, this is not your typical one-move wonder roof-pull. The climbing is surprisingly sustained from the moment you step off the Vixen slab until you clip the anchor, some 30 moves later.

Approach by climbing any of the slab routes below the roof, to a hands-free stance at the Vixen anchor. Clear the initial 3-foot roof on large directional holds to a horizontal seam in the crook of the main roof. Tension-y moves lead out to a slanted fin and a contorted lip pull sequence. Follow the sloping ramp leftward, passing a pair of right-facing overlaps on brilliant stone, finally reaching a well-deserved jug a few feet below the anchor.

Location

Climb out the big roof system on the left, slabby section of the Wall of the '90s, beginning from the Vixen anchor. Once in the white streaks above the biggest roof, move left, avoiding the last roof.

Protection

6 bolts to 2BA, not including the approach pitch. There’s a slightly spicy stretch from the last bolt to the anchor, but the holds get bigger the higher you go.

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