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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Todd Anderson and Richard Wright
Page Views: 4,153 total, 20/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Follow the line of bolts right of Vixen, and make your way up the long slab climb to the huge roof complex above. The slab is relatively mild, and gives good rests. The meat of this route involves a series of large roof sections that lead to a four move crux sequence. Pull this off, avoid the terrible rope drag, and you are on your way to the redpoint.

Protection

18 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. There is a significant amount of rope drag on this route if you do not use long draws wisely. Some bolts are not needed, and in particular, two bolts under some two of the roofs should be unclipped after clipping the bolt on the lip to eliminate rope drag, or use a really long sling.
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12c
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12c
Great route. It could be a one move wonder but it has more to do with body type than anything else. The crux can be done in one of two ways:

  • right heel hook - works for folks as short as 5'2" and as tall as 6'6" (i.e., me).
  • left knee scum - seems best for folks around 5'10".

Once the crux is sent if your short, it's pretty much over. Taller climbers still have a fight in store as the next three moves the foot work is pretty high. The last few moves to the chains are .11a and not to be sneezed at if you're pumped.

Greg's comments below on which draws to clip are spot on! Aug 19, 2017
Greg Miller
  5.12
Greg Miller  
  5.12
If I thought this was 12a, I would have rated it 12-. Don't worry, grambo, adventurebum, Two Chains, I won't downgrade your routes on Creekside.
#vanlife Aug 14, 2017
two chains
Fucken Zion
two chains   Fucken Zion
Miller, you give this a 12a rating, but it took you 4 tries? No one cares about your clipping beta. "As it adds nothing to MP"-DM. Aug 13, 2017
Greg Miller
  5.12
Greg Miller  
  5.12
This climb is awesome, not sure I'd call it a one move wonder. There is one really hard reach move, but it doesn't totally let up. If you like bouldery, steep climbing, this is a good one.

I found the best slinging was: at the start, there is a belay bolt, then a bolt just above that. Clip the third bolt from the ground as your first bolt.

Clip the anchor with a double length sling (or unclip a normal quickdraw after you clip the bolt above the roof with another double length).

There is an unnecessary bolt (the 2nd one over the roof). Just skip it, and clip the first of 4 (as of 2/19/17) fixed draws. Skip the third fix draw (totally a clean fall) until your on jugs to clip the hidden one on the slab. You will need one QD for the last bolt.

Best to clean on toprope. Feb 20, 2017
Nolan Robertson
  5.12c
Nolan Robertson  
  5.12c
I really enjoyed the steep hero climbing on some funky jugs and crimps. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone that does not like blind reaches and really steep climbing. Nov 16, 2016
Tane Owens
Denver, CO
 
Tane Owens   Denver, CO
 
Skip the first draw (6 ft off the ground), back-clean the second, extend the last 4 on the slab (I back-cleaned the last one), skip the first anchor, obviously, and extend everything on the roof. It sounds like a "lot of work", but it makes the climb much more enjoyable.

Classic CC 5.12 in my opinion, and not a one-move-wonder... it's more of a 3-move-wonder. Harder than 10-Digit. Nov 2, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
If a scrunchy and weird one move wonder is your thing, well then that's your thing. It was kinda - sorta fun in a one move, scrunchy, weird way. Oct 18, 2015
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Let's try this: hung July of 2015, the long draws dangling off the roof section are mine.

PUHL-EEZE feel free to clip 'em. Just don't strip 'em.

When I pull 'em, I'll pull this comment. Aug 3, 2015
Ethan Davis
Hailey, ID
  5.12c
Ethan Davis   Hailey, ID
  5.12c
Richard nailed it on his comment. Climb it. Apr 5, 2015
Mike Humphries
Arvada, CO
 
Mike Humphries   Arvada, CO
 
Loved this route. the position is killer, the 4 move crux (V6ish) is aesthetic, tension climbing on crimps and slippery feet, and the final awkward 5.11 move to reach the anchors tops it off. Clip the right bolts and rope drag will not be a problem, I didn't back clean any. Apr 18, 2012
Nate Weitzel  
 
I first climbed this route years ago, but only did it once as I botched the rope management, had heinous rope drag, and then got distracted to do other things. Now I have gone back to this one, and the while the rope management adds to the complexity of the climb, making you actually plan your route a bit, I think it makes for a more interesting day. Overall, I think this line is fantastic, harder than TDD, and Great Escape, with some very fun, pumpy moves through the roof and good exposure. My current favorite on the wall. Jun 24, 2007
I respectfully disagree with the anonymous detractors, but I must admit my wife (also a climber) sometimes accuses me of loving every climb I do. So maybe I am not as discriminating as some.

But I still highly recommend this route. Aug 2, 2005
ac
  5.12c
ac  
  5.12c
Yes, multiple massive roofs, but little in the way of a pump factor since its a one-move wonder with good rests before and after the crux. Ignoring the rope drag issue, still 1-star climbing: worth doing, but not worth repeating. Aug 2, 2005
I had nothing to do with the FA on this thing so I am not being biased about this - I did the route and I thought it was a kick. The multiple massive roofs you go through add up to a great pump and killer position.

This rope drag thing is something you boys should be able to figure out.There is a 3 point plan for doing big roofs like this:

1.USE LONG SLINGS under the roof - I believe this concept was implemented by Gunky roof climbers long ago. It works.

2.UNCLIP some of the draws (from rest stances after you have passed them), or

3. SKIP some of the clips through the roof (there are lots of them).

If all that seems too much you can also bring your belayer up to the anchors at the top of the slab and treat the big roof as an independent pitch. I had no problems with rope drag when I did this. The bolting on the slab is completely fine - there are no issues there.

Secret beta on the crux - right heel hook.Shorter folks may have more difficulty.Pretty hard, burly and reachy, might be a sandbag at 12C.

I still say 3 stars, but if you insist on botching up the rope drag issue, you may not like it as much. Aug 2, 2005
The one move is hard - but is it fun? Bad bolting on the approach slab, killer rope drag, etc won't have me coming back for more. Aug 1, 2005
ac
  5.12c
ac  
  5.12c
Can't say I was as impressed by this climb as other posters. I give it one star since I did not enjoy the climb enough to want to put in work for a redpoint.It was kind of a thrutchy one-move wonder (and a very tough move at that). Even with backcleaning 2 QDs, rope drag got pretty bad near the top... I would recommend using only long draws on the entire roof section leading up to the crux move (as well as the last bolt on the slab). Y2K is certainly more difficult than 10-digit-dialing, but not as nice of a climb. Jul 25, 2005
Incredible position. Oct 2, 2002
I thought was one of the better routes in the canyon, my biased opinion of course. A long varied pitch, seven separate roofs with about 20' of total overhang, gymnastic moves, 3 stars in my book. As far as rope drag goes, add 6 long slings to your 20 QDs and use them at any point where the rope tends to bend in under the roof (you can clip short where you need to, then unclip leaving the long sling as back pro). Aug 9, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
For those not capable of leading 12c, you can easily lead this for the 11 bolts to make a very nice 11- and move L. Mar 5, 2002
Cool exposure going through the roofs, but oi vey - that rope drag is pretty nasty! The face leading to the roofs is reachy but fun (11+ or so). The roof section starts with pleasent jugs hauling, but goes from 0 to 60 in a hurry when you hit the dynamic and crimpy crux! Solid for the grade. Jul 13, 2001